I agree with Matthew -- there is no reason a situation like what you posted should be taxing your flashes. I shoot in exactly that situation all the time and rarely have my remote speedlights over 1/16th power (normally in the 1/32 to 1/64 range)... and the on-camera one is just there to be the commander.
As a Nikon shooter, I love the remote-power-control given to me by the CLS system. I use it ALL THE TIME. However, I've recently added some Radio Poppers to my arsenal and I have to say, the integration (once you get over the "yet another gadget that needs to be charged, tested, and transported, and hooked up" issue) is basically seamless. It works marvelously and has a very long range (football field+).
However, as soon as Nikon comes out with an integrated solution, I'm jumping on that immediately.
I think there's a little misunderstanding. I don't tax my flashes at every reception. On those certain ones where the folks are dancing like crazy, the DJ is really pumping the music, and folks forget I'm there, THAT is when I'll get an occasional "hot pocket." I try to make myself part of the scene by blending into the crowd, and as the rhythm of the dance peaks, and the DJs starts his light show (when he's a good one anyway) I actually turn my flash into part of his show. I'll still aim it a the crowd, but I'm only trying to whip them up even more. It seems to work for a specific type of situation that only happens at an occasional reception. I should probably just get a strobe.
BTW, nice work on that page. I took a look a look at it just now. It's been a busy few days, so I've not been online. I shot a Tough Mudder event over the weekend. Yoinks.
Getting back to your page. In that third one down, with the folks throwing petals, that's some nice work. It's very nicely staged. That crowd was pretty mellow at that point? It looks like a tight space, how'd you stand your flashes? I hate using them unless a crowd is really mellow. (I don't mean they're just sitting around, I mean NOT falling down drunk and wild.)
I just picked up some HEAVY c-stands for outdoor use. They're sturdy enough that they could withstand a bump or two without tumbling. Until I get rid of these Pocket Wizards I'm afraid I'll have to be cautious on when I'll use so much off camera flash. It was a mistake buying them, I'd hoped the ability to update the firmware would eventually fix the problem. Live and learn. For me, each and every piece of gear I own, or purchase, has been earned through the use of the gear. It's a slow, methodical approach but it''l get me there.
Also, this thread wasn't about trying to solve any problems, I just wanted to talk about shooting weddings. It was more of way to see what other folks were doing. I may even begin other random discussions. I've enjoyed this one.
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Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
I think there's a little misunderstanding. I don't tax my flashes at every reception. On those certain ones where the folks are dancing like crazy, the DJ is really pumping the music, and folks forget I'm there, THAT is when I'll get an occasional "hot pocket." I try to make myself part of the scene by blending into the crowd, and as the rhythm of the dance peaks, and the DJs starts his light show (when he's a good one anyway) I actually turn my flash into part of his show. I'll still aim it a the crowd, but I'm only trying to whip them up even more. It seems to work for a specific type of situation that only happens at an occasional reception. I should probably just get a strobe.
BTW, nice work on that page. I took a look a look at it just now. It's been a busy few days, so I've not been online. I shot a Tough Mudder event over the weekend. Yoinks.
Getting back to your page. In that third one down, with the folks throwing petals, that's some nice work. It's very nicely staged. That crowd was pretty mellow at that point? It looks like a tight space, how'd you stand your flashes? I hate using them unless a crowd is really mellow. (I don't mean they're just sitting around, I mean NOT falling down drunk and wild.)
I just picked up some HEAVY c-stands for outdoor use. They're sturdy enough that they could withstand a bump or two without tumbling. Until I get rid of these Pocket Wizards I'm afraid I'll have to be cautious on when I'll use so much off camera flash. It was a mistake buying them, I'd hoped the ability to update the firmware would eventually fix the problem. Live and learn. For me, each and every piece of gear I own, or purchase, has been earned through the use of the gear. It's a slow, methodical approach but it''l get me there.
Also, this thread wasn't about trying to solve any problems, I just wanted to talk about shooting weddings. It was more of way to see what other folks were doing. I may even begin other random discussions. I've enjoyed this one.
Everything I do is usually with 2-4 hotshoe flashes set up wirelessly, around the room, based on how big the room is or what shape it is. Then I have a final on-camera flash usually in TTL turned down a bit. For those particular shots, I was running 2-3 remote strobes (Nikon SB80's) at 1/64 power or so, maybe even 1/128 cuz it was a small room, or 1/32 or 1/16 if I had an inkling to turn down my ISO for whatever reason...
The point I was trying to make, regarding overheating, was that I simply don't think you should ever encounter any problems even if you're blasting at 5-6 FPS for quite a few minutes off and on, because the flash power is at such a low point.
However, there are flashes I have heard of over-heating no matter what, they're simply poorly engineered. (And the 600EX doesn't have that issue) Also, alkaline and Lithium AA batteries can get EXTREMELY hot, very easily, so Eneloops are best in that respect.
Good luck!
BTW my friend just introduced me to the Yungnuo 560 EX mk3's, they're built-in radio wireless like the 600EX, but without wireless TTL. (Though they do have wirless HSS, AND the ability to change the flash zoom!!!!!) For only $70-80, you can't go wrong considering the Yongnuo name has finally begun to offer decent construction quality. Apparently you can still use an on-camera 600EX or 580EX, for those of you who need TTL on-camera, and then just add the controller via a PC sync port...
Something I'd definitely check out, before splurging on such expensive units as the 600EX!
BTW my friend just introduced me to the Yungnuo 560 EX mk3's, they're built-in radio wireless like the 600EX, but without wireless TTL. (Though they do have wirless HSS, AND the ability to change the flash zoom!!!!!) For only $70-80, you can't go wrong considering the Yongnuo name has finally begun to offer decent construction quality. Apparently you can still use an on-camera 600EX or 580EX, for those of you who need TTL on-camera, and then just add the controller via a PC sync port...
Something I'd definitely check out, before splurging on such expensive units as the 600EX!
=Matt=
Too late! I made enough on last Saturday's wedding to buy 3 600ex-rts, and the transmitter. B&H shipped them yesterday and I should receive them Thursday. I feel like a kid on Christmas. I plan on selling all my Pocketwizard stuff soon. I can't wait to start practicing with them.
Wow. So I received my 600s, and the transmitter, a couple of days ago. So far, in just playing around, I am seeing these new tools as a real game changer. While I'd read a lot of material about them, it wasn't until I actually had them in hand that I really appreciated what they can/can't do. So far there are only two things I don't like. The wireless transmitter doesn't have a focus assist beam, which I knew going in. Also, the lack of rear curtain snyc while using wireless. That last sort has me a bit disappointed, but I'll adjust.
Here's a great lecture on the basics in case anyone else needs a primer.
Comments
As a Nikon shooter, I love the remote-power-control given to me by the CLS system. I use it ALL THE TIME. However, I've recently added some Radio Poppers to my arsenal and I have to say, the integration (once you get over the "yet another gadget that needs to be charged, tested, and transported, and hooked up" issue) is basically seamless. It works marvelously and has a very long range (football field+).
However, as soon as Nikon comes out with an integrated solution, I'm jumping on that immediately.
Here is a wedding website I created for a customer as a value-add. Comments appreciated.
Founding member of The Professional Photography Forum as well.
BTW, nice work on that page. I took a look a look at it just now. It's been a busy few days, so I've not been online. I shot a Tough Mudder event over the weekend. Yoinks.
Getting back to your page. In that third one down, with the folks throwing petals, that's some nice work. It's very nicely staged. That crowd was pretty mellow at that point? It looks like a tight space, how'd you stand your flashes? I hate using them unless a crowd is really mellow. (I don't mean they're just sitting around, I mean NOT falling down drunk and wild.)
I just picked up some HEAVY c-stands for outdoor use. They're sturdy enough that they could withstand a bump or two without tumbling. Until I get rid of these Pocket Wizards I'm afraid I'll have to be cautious on when I'll use so much off camera flash. It was a mistake buying them, I'd hoped the ability to update the firmware would eventually fix the problem. Live and learn. For me, each and every piece of gear I own, or purchase, has been earned through the use of the gear. It's a slow, methodical approach but it''l get me there.
Also, this thread wasn't about trying to solve any problems, I just wanted to talk about shooting weddings. It was more of way to see what other folks were doing. I may even begin other random discussions. I've enjoyed this one.
Everything I do is usually with 2-4 hotshoe flashes set up wirelessly, around the room, based on how big the room is or what shape it is. Then I have a final on-camera flash usually in TTL turned down a bit. For those particular shots, I was running 2-3 remote strobes (Nikon SB80's) at 1/64 power or so, maybe even 1/128 cuz it was a small room, or 1/32 or 1/16 if I had an inkling to turn down my ISO for whatever reason...
The point I was trying to make, regarding overheating, was that I simply don't think you should ever encounter any problems even if you're blasting at 5-6 FPS for quite a few minutes off and on, because the flash power is at such a low point.
However, there are flashes I have heard of over-heating no matter what, they're simply poorly engineered. (And the 600EX doesn't have that issue) Also, alkaline and Lithium AA batteries can get EXTREMELY hot, very easily, so Eneloops are best in that respect.
Good luck!
BTW my friend just introduced me to the Yungnuo 560 EX mk3's, they're built-in radio wireless like the 600EX, but without wireless TTL. (Though they do have wirless HSS, AND the ability to change the flash zoom!!!!!) For only $70-80, you can't go wrong considering the Yongnuo name has finally begun to offer decent construction quality. Apparently you can still use an on-camera 600EX or 580EX, for those of you who need TTL on-camera, and then just add the controller via a PC sync port...
Something I'd definitely check out, before splurging on such expensive units as the 600EX!
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Too late! I made enough on last Saturday's wedding to buy 3 600ex-rts, and the transmitter. B&H shipped them yesterday and I should receive them Thursday. I feel like a kid on Christmas. I plan on selling all my Pocketwizard stuff soon. I can't wait to start practicing with them.
Here's a great lecture on the basics in case anyone else needs a primer.
Mastering the Speedlite 600EX-RT with Syl Arena
Just playing around with it. Nothing complicated.