The 5D3 is highly customizable, which is great, but it takes some time to figure out how you want things set. At least, it did for me. In addition, the AF system is quite complex. So my suggestion is plan for some time just reading the manual and playing with it. The first few weeks I had mine, I left the manual out, and from time to time I would just sit down and play with settings, etc. Well worth it.
Still a tremendous camera that has not been leapfrogged in 3 years (ok, aside from the whole DR thing which for me is not a big deal). For action I like using a single AF point with 8 point expansion on, and orientation linked AF points. That is, you pre-select two AF points and the camera will automatically switch between them when you turn the camera from horizontal to vertical or vice versa. This way you can choose an upper AF point and focus on your subject's face. The camera's meter seems quite conservative, I am usually at EC +2/3. Or I'll shoot manual in consistent light.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Thanks and yes This is a technological leap from my 60D.. I like to shoot and shoot and shoot so getting caught up in all these features is a whole other side that requires time too as they go hand in hand.. Th AF point feature is very very different and Yes I have read the manual but don't really quite fully understand it..Love hearing that you can select two - One for horizontal and one for vertical as I am a portrait photographer that focuses on the eye and this will come in very handy as no need to toggle between focus points when switching orientation.
I do not understand why there are so many focus points, My 60d had about 9 I think and now there is what 61... Oh boy!!! can anyone try to explain this in a nutshell?
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I do not understand why there are so many focus points, My 60d had about 9 I think and now there is what 61... Oh boy!!! can anyone try to explain this in a nutshell?
Well, presumably Canon (in this case) think that the user would like more, rather than fewer, options re the point of focus - for composition reasons ?
Yes, an obvious answer and considering all I had in the days of film was a single precision focussing area in the middle of the frame ... how did I (we) cope?
To some extent, I think it depends on subject matter, and what you're trying to achieve with it + file size of the camera, since the larger it is, the more cropping options are available (in some people's opinion, anyway).
If your (photographic) interest can be satisfied by using even a single (hopefully good) AF point and re-compose - where necessary - then anything other than that single point could be considered overkill, maybe?
However, if you're interested in taking pics of subjects that move, want to have the point of (best) focus on a specific area of that subject and place that area - for composition reasons - in a particular part of the frame, rather than the centre ... then having a load of AF points that work well in Servo mode is very useful.
Whilst I've used several Canon bodies with the standard diamond AF point layout, I find layouts that have horizontal (or nearly so) rows of points much better, because it allows me to keep a moving subject's eye / head at the same height above water level, but in a different part of the frame.
With the diamond arrangement, user has fewer options for this.
This all becomes apparent if / when I revisit frames taken with diamond AF areas, and wonder why I have the subject in the lower centre of frame ... and it's because that (the south point)was the only AF point available to me in servo
All very particular / nit picky, I know ... but that's how it is for some of us ...
Personally I'd like to also have a user movable AF point, that could be placed anywhere in the frame,so that if I wanted an eye (say) to be in focus, in the corner of frame ... then I'd have the means of achieving it.
Why so many? Because then you don't have to focus /recompose and can just put the focus point where you want it. It's the thing I missed most when I switched from 7d to 5d2 and can't wait to get back when I finally upgrade to the iii!
Plus, if you previously used a 30D/40D/50D/7D, the 5D series have the same body size and control layout. The 60D/70D/6D have a slightly smaller body size, and the layout is all wrong...er...different.
If you are new to Canon, or had a xxxD series, this difference won't matter to you, in fact, you will find the 6D layout familiar.
All your replies are very useful and I did some research myself and it appears this camera is quite advanced in the realm of AF points than I am used to. The 60D provided the simple diamond points that I have become well equipped to using and toggling at speedy finger rates. These 61 AF points consist of 41 cross type which I believe are the sharpest, then you can also programm these focus points to track moving subjects for the shot. Wow that's spectacular but as primarily a newborn and portrait photographer my subjects tend to move on the still side.. I am curretnly working with the least amount of focus points as toggling between too many cumbersome.
Is there anyway to program the AF points to the diamond layout that I have become well accustomed too and works well for me?
I have never shot with the focus recompose method as just never seemed to seem right for me. Rather I am accurate with my Af point on the eye and also always shoot under 5.2 aperture and alot at 1.8..
What great info thanks everyone!! Seems I need to practice all this when not in a client session to get a thorough understanding of all the different AF options. Now if only there were more hours in the day.
Anyone have a recommendation for memory cards with the 5D3 there are so many?
The Canon 5D Mark III has two card slots, and can accept both CF and SD type cards. If you want maximum capture speed and are not so concerned about the advantahes of 2 cards, you may wish to use only CF cards as some folks dicovered that SD cards may actually have a transfer speed limit, and that limit may also affect CF write speeds (if an SD card is in the SD slot and when writing to the SD card for any reason).
Still, I recommend using card redundancy when appropriate.
There are two qualities I look for in choosing a memory card for my cameras; reliability and speed. If a card is not reliable it's of no value at all, and actual transfer speeds cary widely from manufacturer specifications.
For card reliability it's best to use Google to search for reliability problems before any purchase. I tend to use Sandisk UDMA-7 CF cards up to 32GB capacity with my Canon 5D Mark II (I don't have the Mark III yet) and 7D. Anything above 32GB just seems like too many eggs in one basket. Reliability with these cards is just great.
Rob Galbraith did a wonderful job cataloging card speeds for popular digital cameras. Fortunately the Canon 5D Mark III is among those tested:
Have been using Transcend cards for several yrs without problems - in 1Dm3 and since Jan this yr also in a 7Dm2.
Most recent purchase being a 32Gb 600x for a tenner ... that's quid (£)
pp
Btw they also offer an online verification service to let you check authenticity or your card.
I'm using a Lexar Pro 1000x and it's great. I'm not sure I'm getting any more FPS out of my 5D3 with it vs my older Lexar Pro 300x, but the buffer clears faster, and it downloads faster. As Ziggy said, I don't use an SD card if I'm concerned about FPS. I haven't tried a very fast SD card though. Not interested.
The biggest factor contributing to diminished FPS (other than using an SD card) is battery level. Only a battery showing all bars will deliver 6fps. Kind of a bummer, but they seem to have addressed this in the 7D2, fwiw.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Note that the above page is marked as last updated in 2012. Lexar's newest CF card is the 1066x, and the newest SD is the 2000x. You won't see much advantage between the 1000 and 3400 cards unless your stuffing the buffer, and that's only if the camera's transfer rate can take advantage of the card speed. Where you will find improvement, is during down load, and once again, only if you have a card reader and interface that can take advantage of the advanced card technology. Otherwise, just about any semi fast card will work great.
Your best bang for your buck will be to buy last years technology. It's usually a lot cheaper...just as good, quality wise, and more than fast enough. I've been using Lexar 16 MB, 400x cards, without failure, or any buffer delay issues. But, I admit, I'm not machine gunning sporting events just to get that one remarkable image. I shoot weddings, 3 day biking events, etc. The 400x is couple of generations old...followed by the 800x and now, as above, the 1066x.
Me, I'd spend my money wisely, and get more 800x and not worry about the top of the line stuff. For all, but the most demanding pro and amateur shooters, this is the best bet for your money.
Remember, no one may want you to take pictures, but they all want to see them. Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
I'm using any of the Sandisk Extreme Pro's or Lexar 1066 speed cards. Those are plenty fast in and of themselves. What will hold the buffer speed down the most, I found, is what you are doing with the SD card. If you are also placing RAW files there, look out. Even Large JPG's onto the SD card will slow it down if you are shooting bursts.
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Comments
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
I do not understand why there are so many focus points, My 60d had about 9 I think and now there is what 61... Oh boy!!! can anyone try to explain this in a nutshell?
Well, presumably Canon (in this case) think that the user would like more, rather than fewer, options re the point of focus - for composition reasons ?
Yes, an obvious answer and considering all I had in the days of film was a single precision focussing area in the middle of the frame ... how did I (we) cope?
To some extent, I think it depends on subject matter, and what you're trying to achieve with it + file size of the camera, since the larger it is, the more cropping options are available (in some people's opinion, anyway).
If your (photographic) interest can be satisfied by using even a single (hopefully good) AF point and re-compose - where necessary - then anything other than that single point could be considered overkill, maybe?
However, if you're interested in taking pics of subjects that move, want to have the point of (best) focus on a specific area of that subject and place that area - for composition reasons - in a particular part of the frame, rather than the centre ... then having a load of AF points that work well in Servo mode is very useful.
Whilst I've used several Canon bodies with the standard diamond AF point layout, I find layouts that have horizontal (or nearly so) rows of points much better, because it allows me to keep a moving subject's eye / head at the same height above water level, but in a different part of the frame.
With the diamond arrangement, user has fewer options for this.
This all becomes apparent if / when I revisit frames taken with diamond AF areas, and wonder why I have the subject in the lower centre of frame ... and it's because that (the south point)was the only AF point available to me in servo
All very particular / nit picky, I know ... but that's how it is for some of us ...
Personally I'd like to also have a user movable AF point, that could be placed anywhere in the frame,so that if I wanted an eye (say) to be in focus, in the corner of frame ... then I'd have the means of achieving it.
pp
Flickr
If you are new to Canon, or had a xxxD series, this difference won't matter to you, in fact, you will find the 6D layout familiar.
Is there anyway to program the AF points to the diamond layout that I have become well accustomed too and works well for me?
No, I don't believe that is possible. It is possible to reduce the number of active AF points, however.
Please review the following:
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_af_pts_article.shtml
... And then download and review the following (having a copy on your computer to refer to is just a really great idea):
http://learn.usa.canon.com/app/pdfs/quickguides/CDLC_1DX-MarkIII_AF_Point_Mngmt_QuicGuide.pdf
... to see the possible AF point layouts.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
http://www.robgalbraith.com/camera_wb_multi_page7de5.html?cid=6007-12452
I have used SanDisk Extremes for years.
Also, be sure to read this: http://www.borrowlenses.com/blog/2013/01/tip-optimize-canon-5d-markiii-write-speeds-avoid-sd-cards/
The Canon 5D Mark III has two card slots, and can accept both CF and SD type cards. If you want maximum capture speed and are not so concerned about the advantahes of 2 cards, you may wish to use only CF cards as some folks dicovered that SD cards may actually have a transfer speed limit, and that limit may also affect CF write speeds (if an SD card is in the SD slot and when writing to the SD card for any reason).
http://blog.jeffcable.com/2012/06/why-you-should-not-put-sd-card-in-your.html
Still, I recommend using card redundancy when appropriate.
There are two qualities I look for in choosing a memory card for my cameras; reliability and speed. If a card is not reliable it's of no value at all, and actual transfer speeds cary widely from manufacturer specifications.
For card reliability it's best to use Google to search for reliability problems before any purchase. I tend to use Sandisk UDMA-7 CF cards up to 32GB capacity with my Canon 5D Mark II (I don't have the Mark III yet) and 7D. Anything above 32GB just seems like too many eggs in one basket. Reliability with these cards is just great.
Rob Galbraith did a wonderful job cataloging card speeds for popular digital cameras. Fortunately the Canon 5D Mark III is among those tested:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/camera_wb_multi_page7de5.html?cid=6007-12452
Edit: ... and "cmason" types faster than I type.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Most recent purchase being a 32Gb 600x for a tenner ... that's quid (£)
pp
Btw they also offer an online verification service to let you check authenticity or your card.
Flickr
The biggest factor contributing to diminished FPS (other than using an SD card) is battery level. Only a battery showing all bars will deliver 6fps. Kind of a bummer, but they seem to have addressed this in the 7D2, fwiw.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
Ed
I've had good results with Sandisk Refurbished SD cards
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky