What size prints (350D)?
luckydog
Registered Users Posts: 396 Major grins
No doubt this is talked about somewhere within the dark realms of DGRIN but I want to know.
I am yet to make a print of any shots from my 350D and was wondering what size people have printed up to with good results from the same camera. I have a couple i'd like to print but don't want to be stupid in the print shop and say "I dunno what size." Would rather be stupid among friends in here
TIA
Lucky
I am yet to make a print of any shots from my 350D and was wondering what size people have printed up to with good results from the same camera. I have a couple i'd like to print but don't want to be stupid in the print shop and say "I dunno what size." Would rather be stupid among friends in here
TIA
Lucky
0
Comments
No prob - but it doesn't belong in the Hall of Wisdom, at least not yet I moved it for you.
Go big! I've printed 6' wide from an 8mpx Sony 828. Your 350D had nice smooth files - go large-- and let the lab do upsizing if needed.
20x30, 30x40, bigger even!
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A former sports shooter
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Hi,
Just wondered if someone could clarify exactly how the superior lenses effect print quality. I am only a beginner at photography but I thought that the major benifit of the more expensive lenses was the amount of light that can be passed through to the sensor and focus speeds. Is there other major differnences that will effect prints???
Cheers
All care but no responsibility
Sharpness is the biggie when it comes to resizing. Sharpness is a function of the quality and number of lense elements. Faster lenses (ones with large max aperture) tend to have higher quality lense elements in them.
Another thing to consider is where you will be viewing them from. A 20x30 isn't meant to be placed in a hallway, its meant to be viewed from at least several feet away. Do the DPI calculations... 300 DPI is usually the target, though less can certainly be used when the viewing distance isn't up close.
We think of glass as being transparent. This isn't completely true. It is mostly transparent, but is also partly reflective, and also absorbs some of the light. And these properties aren't necessarily linear or constant across the visible light band. Hence the reason for flourite lens elements, special coatings, etc. Something else that can make a lens better than another is the tolerances to which it is ground and polished. Seeing as how you cannot machine/mold/stamp/polish/forge anything perfectly the final product will deviate from the ideal. A lens element in an expensive lens will be closer to the ideal than the optics of less expensive lens.
All this adds up to photos that have more vibrant colors, greater contrast, and sharper detail.
A former sports shooter
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