OK Skiers - let's here your responses to this, which I got by email:
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "setup." If you mean equipment, I use a 70-200 lens for most of my ski shots. If I'm shooting alpine racing, I'll go to a 300mm or a 400mm -- depending if it's slalom or gs and how close I can get to the course. I'll occassionally add a polarizer, but those days are rare since I've moved to digital
If you mean exposure set-up, the biggest thing to remember is always always over expose by 1 (cloudy day) to 1 1/2 stops (bright day). I tend to shoot skiing with aperature priority -- usually 4.0 or 5.6. And shoot raw if you have the ability. The real pros might throw in a fill flash, but that seems like a lot of work.
You'll find some nordic shots at www.flyingpointroad.com. Alpine shots will show up there in the next few weeks.
Let me know if this isn't what you're looking for.
Of course, just to prove that there really are no hard and fast rules, I shot this 3 years ago with a 10D and 200mm lens and way before I knew what color snow was or how to make it look that way. And it's still a favorite.
This is just the kind of advice I'm looking for.:): You will notice from my questions that I am new to the world of slr photography so I really appreciate the help. If I shoot in aperature priority on the D50, the camera sets the shutter speed. If I shoot in aperature priority at 4.0 to 5.6, will I get adaquate shutter speed to freeze the image? When you say over expose, what begining reference point do you have in mind?
I just bought the 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor. It came with a lens hood. What is your advice on when I should use the lens hood? In addition, should I use a uv filter when shoot bright ski shots?
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "setup." If you mean equipment, I use a 70-200 lens for most of my ski shots. If I'm shooting alpine racing, I'll go to a 300mm or a 400mm -- depending if it's slalom or gs and how close I can get to the course. I'll occassionally add a polarizer, but those days are rare since I've moved to digital
If you mean exposure set-up, the biggest thing to remember is always always over expose by 1 (cloudy day) to 1 1/2 stops (bright day). I tend to shoot skiing with aperature priority -- usually 4.0 or 5.6. And shoot raw if you have the ability. The real pros might throw in a fill flash, but that seems like a lot of work.
You'll find some nordic shots at www.flyingpointroad.com. Alpine shots will show up there in the next few weeks.
Let me know if this isn't what you're looking for.
Of course, just to prove that there really are no hard and fast rules, I shot this 3 years ago with a 10D and 200mm lens and way before I knew what color snow was or how to make it look that way. And it's still a favorite.
This is just the kind of advice I'm looking for.:): You will notice from my questions that I am new to the world of slr photography so I really appreciate the help. If I shoot in aperature priority on the D50, the camera sets the shutter speed. If I shoot in aperature priority at 4.0 to 5.6, will I get adaquate shutter speed to freeze the image? When you say over expose, what begining reference point do you have in mind?
I just bought the 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor. It came with a lens hood. What is your advice on when I should use the lens hood? In addition, should I use a uv filter when shoot bright ski shots?
Sounds like you're set with a lens. I honestly can't remember the last time I shot without a lens hood. It's the best protection possible.
In regards to a UV filter, I leave one on the front of all my lenses. Between the elements, the kids I coach, butterfingers, etc., it's one less thing to worry about...''
Usually --- not always -- there's more than enough light at a ski event to get a sufficient shutter speed to freeze action. Don't forget the 3rd dimension (ISO speed) and since you've got this nifty new camera, try a little image blur. Personally, I think it adds a lot to the image when done in moderation.
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I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "setup." If you mean equipment, I use a 70-200 lens for most of my ski shots. If I'm shooting alpine racing, I'll go to a 300mm or a 400mm -- depending if it's slalom or gs and how close I can get to the course. I'll occassionally add a polarizer, but those days are rare since I've moved to digital
If you mean exposure set-up, the biggest thing to remember is always always over expose by 1 (cloudy day) to 1 1/2 stops (bright day). I tend to shoot skiing with aperature priority -- usually 4.0 or 5.6. And shoot raw if you have the ability. The real pros might throw in a fill flash, but that seems like a lot of work.
You'll find some nordic shots at www.flyingpointroad.com. Alpine shots will show up there in the next few weeks.
Let me know if this isn't what you're looking for.
The results were pretty nice. I learned another thing. If you want to make the slope look steep, point the camera downhill
instead of uphill.
Oh, and read up on the color of snow.
I just bought the 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor.
It came with a lens hood. What is your advice on when I should use the lens hood? In addition, should I use a uv filter when shoot bright ski shots?
Only when you're using your camera.
Seriously. It's the best protection you can give your lens.
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http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
Over expose that snow!
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Sounds like you're set with a lens. I honestly can't remember the last time I shot without a lens hood. It's the best protection possible.
In regards to a UV filter, I leave one on the front of all my lenses. Between the elements, the kids I coach, butterfingers, etc., it's one less thing to worry about...''
Usually --- not always -- there's more than enough light at a ski event to get a sufficient shutter speed to freeze action. Don't forget the 3rd dimension (ISO speed) and since you've got this nifty new camera, try a little image blur. Personally, I think it adds a lot to the image when done in moderation.
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