Well friends, I am creating a mosaic of small pictures on a canvas. But one of the pictures is very detailed. I will get a print out of what I want from the internet, cut it out and paste it on the canvas. What can I use that is clear to cover the small image on the piece of paper? Then I will paint something on top of that. What can I use to cover a small paper image on a canvas painting?
Well friends, I am creating a mosaic of small pictures on a canvas. But one of the pictures is very detailed. I will get a print out of what I want from the internet, cut it out and paste it on the canvas. What can I use that is clear to cover the small image on the piece of paper? Then I will paint something on top of that. What can I use to cover a small paper image on a canvas painting?
I think I understand what you're asking. It sounds like you want to attach a photograph to canvas and paint over it. I'd recommend an acrylic painting medium. Multimedia artists use this all the time. Either matte or gloss, depending on what you want to use it for.
Is there a particular reason you stretch the canvas yourself instead of having the printer do it?
Also, I've seen the canvas products that actually do a reverse/mirror image on the wrap edges. Makes for an interesting finish on the final mount. Have you seen these?
I have been showing my photos in local galleries for a year or so. I am always looking for something new to do with my images. I tried a couple of canvas prints in December. I usually only see big close-up flowers on canvas so I wasn't sure my urban stuff would carry.
I got a good response so I decided to do a whole show this month.
People LOVE these canvas prints! I can't keep the stuff on the walls. And they look really impressive as you go big.
I had a patron who wanted me to go bigger than the 24"x36" he saw in the gallery. I worked with the lab and they totally hooked me up.
Check this out: 40"x60"!!
Here's a little storyboard about how I put them together:
TIPS:
- Do not get the gloss finish on canvas. It's too delicate and should be
under glass. AND it comes off with water. Get the matte finish.
- Do not stretch the canvas too tight or you'll break the image.
- Sand the front edges of your stretcher bars if they have a sharp corner.
- Make sure you have a non-abrasive work surface for stretching or you'll scratch the image.
Where I get My Stuff:
- stretcher bars - Dick Blick or Utrecht Art or any art store would work
- canvas stretching pliers - Dick Blick or any art store
- canvas print or giclee - Pixel Outpost I like them, but shop around and find your favorite
- acrylic paint and brushes - Utrecht makes my favorite paint
I stretched the canvas myself mostly because I could and it costs so much more to ship a large framed piece than it does to ship it rolled up in a tube. I print 4-8 pieces at a time for my shows, so it can really add up.
I don't actually paint the edges of my pieces as shown in this thread any longer. I did that in my first year when I had a lot more time and I wasn't worried about workflow so much.
I have used the reverse/mirror image edges on some of my images. It worked well with some, but so many others had a line in the image that took a distracting sharp angle turn on the edge. Made especially distracting if you like the really deep master stretcher bars. So I don't use the reverse/mirror any more unless a client asks for it specifically. But it works great for landscapes or images with less "stuff" near the edges.
What I mostly do now is print the image slightly larger than the frame (to reduce the precision requirements of stretching) and paint the edges black with a high density foam roller.
I have my own 44" printer now, so I don't have to worry about shipping any longer. :-)
Is there a particular reason you stretch the canvas yourself instead of having the printer do it?
Also, I've seen the canvas products that actually do a reverse/mirror image on the wrap edges. Makes for an interesting finish on the final mount. Have you seen these?
I stretched the canvas myself mostly because I could and it costs so much more to ship a large framed piece than it does to ship it rolled up in a tube. I print 4-8 pieces at a time for my shows, so it can really add up.
I don't actually paint the edges of my pieces as shown in this thread any longer. I did that in my first year when I had a lot more time and I wasn't worried about workflow so much.
I have used the reverse/mirror image edges on some of my images. It worked well with some, but so many others had a line in the image that took a distracting sharp angle turn on the edge. Made especially distracting if you like the really deep master stretcher bars. So I don't use the reverse/mirror any more unless a client asks for it specifically. But it works great for landscapes or images with less "stuff" near the edges.
What I mostly do now is print the image slightly larger than the frame (to reduce the precision requirements of stretching) and paint the edges black with a high density foam roller.
I have my own 44" printer now, so I don't have to worry about shipping any longer. :-)
Comments
I think I understand what you're asking. It sounds like you want to attach a photograph to canvas and paint over it. I'd recommend an acrylic painting medium. Multimedia artists use this all the time. Either matte or gloss, depending on what you want to use it for.
cheers,
Trish
Is there a particular reason you stretch the canvas yourself instead of having the printer do it?
Also, I've seen the canvas products that actually do a reverse/mirror image on the wrap edges. Makes for an interesting finish on the final mount. Have you seen these?
Again, fantastic work. Thanks for sharing.
- Gary
www.garymillerphoto.com
I stretched the canvas myself mostly because I could and it costs so much more to ship a large framed piece than it does to ship it rolled up in a tube. I print 4-8 pieces at a time for my shows, so it can really add up.
I don't actually paint the edges of my pieces as shown in this thread any longer. I did that in my first year when I had a lot more time and I wasn't worried about workflow so much.
I have used the reverse/mirror image edges on some of my images. It worked well with some, but so many others had a line in the image that took a distracting sharp angle turn on the edge. Made especially distracting if you like the really deep master stretcher bars. So I don't use the reverse/mirror any more unless a client asks for it specifically. But it works great for landscapes or images with less "stuff" near the edges.
What I mostly do now is print the image slightly larger than the frame (to reduce the precision requirements of stretching) and paint the edges black with a high density foam roller.
I have my own 44" printer now, so I don't have to worry about shipping any longer. :-)
best,
Trish
However you are doing it, they are amazing.
Thanks for sharing.
- Gary
www.garymillerphoto.com