landscape photography tips

Andy

I was asked to start a thread of some landscape tips and techniques, so here goes. Please, would everyone here on Dgrin please add your favorite tip or technique, and an example to support it? let's fill this thread up!

OK, some basics... always be hunting for a new scene - carry a notebook or journal with you so you can note the lighting of a particular scene you like, the direction of the sunlight at certain times of the day, and also how it changes by season. make a note in your calendar to go back at a certain time, for example when the leaves are changing or something like that. my journal is full of shots that i've yet to take ;-)

Gear: tripod and remote is a must. a polarizer will be very helpful in many cases. if in doubt, use it, and then take another shot without it. ND filters are quite useful in managing exposures, too. For the adventurous, you can even use graduated nd filters, to lessen the difference between the bright sky and the ground.

General: make sure your filters and lens are clean..don't forget to use your lens hood! while most landscapes you want max dof, try some interesting shots with a selective focus - for example the leaves of a tree oof while the main subject in the distance is sharp, and framed by the leaves of that tree.

Regarding exposure: early and late in the day you must watch your exposure carefully, as the light changes very fast! you also may need to nudge your iso if you are staying within a certain exposure range. learn to shoot in manual mode if you can, taking control over the camera vs it having control over you. At a minimum, use either aperture or shutter priority.

Camera settings: when shooting jpg, i prefer to set the in-camera sharpening, contrast, and saturation to low, on your digital cameras, if you have these settings. Why? I'd rather do these adjustments in post. Don't forget to watch your iso, keep it as low as possible. Meter carefully, and get the most range in your scene without blowing any highlights! Shoot RAW to get the most possible range, and to give you more possiblities in post.

Try to include some foreground interest and bracket your exposures if shooting jpg. Shoot raw if you can!. Raw will allow you the most flexibility in post to squeeze every last bit of good exposure out of your shots. you can develop multiple images, to come up with good dynamic range shots:



Remember, shooting on a gloomy day can often yield great results the mist, the fog, the rain, the snow. Gloomy day shots respond well to post processing techniques, too. so don't stay in, get out! In addition, for color work, pay attention to the time just after a rainstorm. The added moisture makes everything so rich!


You can also shoot in ir for a whole new look:



Where do you put the horizon? Many folks say don't put it dead center. Well, I say, rules, schmules! I think it works in this shot...


And this one, too.


But if the sky is the main event, then give the sky a bigger portion of the image (closer to 2/3s of the image frame)


Try to compose so that the viewer has a "path to follow"


Look for interesting ways to frame your scene:


Give the viewer a lot of bang for their buck... multiple elements such as this statue, the boats, and the interesting building far off keep the viewer engaged:T

Be prepared for anything. And almost anything can be a 'scape. Iwas on my way into dinner, and took five minutes here at the two georges, shot off about 6 or 7 shots, and ended up with this one, which the owner was happy to buy from me:


Watch for the "sweet light," that magical half-hour to hour early in the morning and late in the day. turn around....look all around you, because often behind you or off to your side will be some of the best lighting you'll see all day. That's how i got this shot:


This is not to say that you can't get good landscapes in the middle of the day. You can - it's just harder. Iin fact, there was just an article in one of the photog mags this month talking about this. Remember - rules are made to be broken! there are no rules! Except when there are, :lol3

Remember, please contribute your tips here, we can all learn from each other!

My parting advice: print your shots! there's nothing more satisfying than a 11x14 or 16x20 of your lovely landscape hanging on your walls ;-)

Here's one i printed this weekend, and hung in the living room, overlooking a giant wall of windows that look out on a similar scene:


Enjoy (landscape) photography,

Sam

Thanks
Thanks Andy for the tips, photos, and inspiration.

Sam

ps: I'll be in Death Valley after chalange 24 (Landscapes) Nov 1st to Nov, 4th. Perhaps while I am in Death Valley you could have chalange 25 be oceans, and rivers.

photocat

Landscapes
Thank you for the great tips and examples Andy.... Of course, I am far off from your magnificent shots.
I will try to do my best for the landscape shot.

One tip I could share and for me is essential is "Have your camera with you at all times". You can say bogger if I don't have it with me, that I see something that I would have stopped for.

It amazes me that so much people call themselves photographers, but you never see them with a camera.

I will try to break or make your rules and put it in a nice photograph

kres

Doing a search, this thread was the best hit I got...

Essentially, I was looking for foggy, cloudy, rainy day shooting tips. I'm going on a short ride this weekend over the mountains on a day that it will prolly rain and be a little foggy. What can I do -technically- to make the shots more dramatic? Looking for filter advice, commentary on ISO, shutter speed, etc.

Thanks in advance guys!

Andy

kres wrote:

Doing a search, this thread was the best hit I got...

Essentially, I was looking for foggy, cloudy, rainy day shooting tips. I'm going on a short ride this weekend over the mountains on a day that it will prolly rain and be a little foggy. What can I do -technically- to make the shots more dramatic? Looking for filter advice, commentary on ISO, shutter speed, etc.

Thanks in advance guys!

Watch out for underexposure. Shoot RAW if you can. Post processing will be key!

Awais Yaqub

Thanks for this informative thread
Here is my question

What to do when Sky is white and it is impossible to exclude it ?

photocat

Awais Yaqub wrote:

Thanks for this informative thread
Here is my question

What to do when Sky is white and it is impossible to exclude it ?

Try to use a neutral density filter would be my first answer, but maybe I should leave it to the techno guys here to answer you this.

For the cloudy and foggie trip, I would certainly use a strong neutral density filter, to stop the sky down... So you can make it moody.

Awais Yaqub

Here is example
most of the time we have pure white sky with very littel or no hint of clouds . I convert those photos to bw

padu

Andy wrote:

<big snip>

my parting advice: print your shots! there's nothing more satisfying than a 11x14 or 16x20 of your lovely landscape hanging on your walls ;-)

here's one i printed this weekend, and hung in the living room, overlooking a giant wall of windows that look out on a similar scene:

You must have a giant living room!


All the walls of my office at work are replete of prints. Nothing like good ol' paper

anwmn1

Awais Yaqub wrote:

Here is example
most of the time we have pure white sky with very littel or no hint of clouds . I convert those photos to bw

Awais-

I run into this a lot in Arizona as well- 300+ days of sun. I have found two things work the best. Get a Gradient Filter so you can have the dark part of the filter in the sky- it will give your blue a little more color. The second is to frame and then crop to eliminate most of the sky. If you do not have an interesting sky shoot the picture in a way you don't need it.

Example from the Grand Canyon- bright sky and haze to deal with- taken at 1:30 in the afternoon. If I remember correctly I used both my polarizer and the gradient together.



Not a Great shot but pretty good considering the circumstance.


Aaron

anwmn1

Landscapes tips
How about perspective and angles?

Find different ways to view things- get low, look up, and look through.

Look through:


Get Low:





Look Up:

Skippy

Shooting Moutains
Okay......... I'm asking for two reasons

One there are no mountains where I live.
Two it never snows ... this justifyings asking dumb questions

Lets say you want to photograph some gorgeous mountains.

You have a lovely blue sky, then these amazing mountains,
your lucky enough to have some snow covering on the mountains,
and your forground its fall, so there are amazing colours in the vegetation.

Do you simply just shoot RAW and don't worry about the White Balance at all?

Or do you choose something in that scene to take your reading off?

Or do you take more than one short and blend both in post processing?

Or use some other method of keeping the colour in the sky, the snow on the mountains, and the pretty fall colours on the trees etc ??

......... Skippy

Dalantech

Skippy wrote:

Okay......... I'm asking for two reasons

One there are no mountains where I live.
Two it never snows ... this justifyings asking dumb questions

Lets say you want to photograph some gorgeous mountains.

You have a lovely blue sky, then these amazing mountains,
your lucky enough to have some snow covering on the mountains,
and your forground its fall, so there are amazing colours in the vegetation.

Do you simply just shoot RAW and don't worry about the White Balance at all?

Or do you choose something in that scene to take your reading off?

Or do you take more than one short and blend both in post processing?

Or use some other method of keeping the colour in the sky, the snow on the mountains, and the pretty fall colours on the trees etc ??

......... Skippy

I would do a few things Skippy (excellent question BTW!).

First I would wait until I could shoot at sunrise or sunset to reduce the amount of latitude (the number of stops between the shadows and the highlights). Too many scenics are taken at high noon, and it's just the wrong time of day. Just like Andy said: scout out locations so you know where you're going to stand before the scene gets interesting.

Second I would wait for partly cloudy skies because when the clouds change color during sunrise or sunset you will get that color reflected in the mountain snow -at the very least the white of the show won't be too harsh.

Third I'd set my camera to under expose the scene by at least 1/3, and by as much as a full stop. Under exposing causes colors to saturate and can reduce glare. Here's a couple of examples, with very little post procesisng (I spend less than 60 seconds on any image).

In this first image I've under exposed by -2/3 of a stop. No special filters -the only thing I had on the lens was a Haze 1A. By under exposing I got more of the blue in the sky and a good reflection in the water that's covering the sand. I scouted out this location and knew where I was going to stand when the light changed. All I had to do was wait for a wave to come in and go out -for a few seconds the water would act like a mirror.



In this second image I've under exposed by at least 1/3 of a stop. Granted there's no snow in either of the photos, but if there was it wouldn't be blinding white. IMHO the biggest problem with shooting scenics is that you have to wait for the right light -you just can't take a shot when it's convinient...



As for shooting RAW I think you should never have your camera set to any other file mode. Even though I do very little post processing I always shoot RAW now, and I explain why here: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2007/03/i-shoot-raw-and-so-should-you.html

ericgtr

Skippy wrote:

One there are no mountains where I live.

You have probably perused through Andy's gallery but here is a fantastic example of a great shot with no mountains or snow http://www.moonriverphotography.com/gallery/634937/1/18247756/Medium He has a few like that, his photos are very inspirational (of course it helps to have a 10mm). :andy

anwmn1

You gave some great advice but have point something out.

Dalantech wrote:

IMHO the biggest problem with shooting scenics is that you have to wait for the right light -you just can't take a shot when it's convinient...

Though it is true that the right light is very important to landscape photography this shouldn't discourage people from shooting throughout the entire day.

I think shooting all the time will help each person learn to reconize light or how to adjust for it. The right light does not always come and the same is true of clouds. Once I have been to a place I make notes of when would be a good time to come back, but I also shoot what I can while I am there.

Waiting is also not always an option. There is limited "good" light in the day and if you have kids or non photogrpahers with you or are on your way to another location - shoot what you can- make as many adjustments, add filters, etc. as you can and then make the notes of when you can go back and do it right.

Dalantech

anwmn1 wrote:

You gave some great advice but have point something out.



Though it is true that the right light is very important to landscape photography this shouldn't discourage people from shooting throughout the entire day.

I think shooting all the time will help each person learn to reconize light or how to adjust for it. The right light does not always come and the same is true of clouds. Once I have been to a place I make notes of when would be a good time to come back, but I also shoot what I can while I am there.

Waiting is also not always an option. There is limited "good" light in the day and if you have kids or non photogrpahers with you or are on your way to another location - shoot what you can- make as many adjustments, add filters, etc. as you can and then make the notes of when you can go back and do it right.

Time and opportunity are always factors. I always take a few shots when I first find a location simply because I want to find a good composition for when I come back later -when the light is better. All too often people shoot scenics at high noon from places that are within easy driving distance from their house...

anwmn1

Dalantech wrote:

Time and opportunity are always factors. I always take a few shots when I first find a location simply because I want to find a good composition for when I come back later -when the light is better. All too often people shoot scenics at high noon from places that are within easy driving distance from their house...

Agreed if the location is near the home than get up early one morning or go out early evening. Keep the camera with you, never know when that sky is going to present you with a perfect photo op.

Case in point: I live 20 miles South of Phoenix and drive through an Indian reservation to reach my small town. The reservation has a heard of wild horses that run free- sure enough one day heading home from work the horses were running down a very large wash. My timing was perfect- the horses were heading my direction and I would have time to stop the car and get into position either on the bridge they would run under or on the embankment next to it- Sky was moody with good definition in the clouds and still allowing good light. I had it all pictured in my head- "This is almost like a movie- this will be great" ........ I reach to the floor board to grab the camera bag and ........awe 'expletive' !!! I had removed the camera two nights ago and never put it back in the truck.

Going on two years out here and have only seen the horses twice! I now keep a camera in the truck at all times. Just never know.

As far as mid day shooting I was referring to times when I am across the country or 100 miles or more from home. Of course I can go back but it takes considerable planning and time. I shoot the best I can considering the conditions and decide if it is worth coming back to shoot again.

Awais Yaqub

Thanks for great help

Skippy

ericgtr wrote:

You have probably perused through Andy's gallery but here is a fantastic example of a great shot with no mountains or snow http://www.moonriverphotography.com/gallery/634937/1/18247756/Medium He has a few like that, his photos are very inspirational (of course it helps to have a 10mm). :andy

Andy who ??? I have a 10mm-22m Lens
It's Andy's fault that I own every lens that I have you know
..... Skippy
.

Skippy

Dalantech wrote:

I would do a few things Skippy (excellent question BTW!).

First I would wait until I could shoot at sunrise or sunset to reduce the amount of latitude (the number of stops between the shadows and the highlights). Too many scenics are taken at high noon, and it's just the wrong time of day. Just like Andy said: scout out locations so you know where you're going to stand before the scene gets interesting.

Second I would wait for partly cloudy skies because when the clouds change color during sunrise or sunset you will get that color reflected in the mountain snow -at the very least the white of the show won't be too harsh.

Third I'd set my camera to under expose the scene by at least 1/3, and by as much as a full stop. Under exposing causes colors to saturate and can reduce glare. Here's a couple of examples, with very little post procesisng (I spend less than 60 seconds on any image).

In this first image I've under exposed by -2/3 of a stop. No special filters -the only thing I had on the lens was a Haze 1A. By under exposing I got more of the blue in the sky and a good reflection in the water that's covering the sand. I scouted out this location and knew where I was going to stand when the light changed. All I had to do was wait for a wave to come in and go out -for a few seconds the water would act like a mirror.

In this second image I've under exposed by at least 1/3 of a stop. Granted there's no snow in either of the photos, but if there was it wouldn't be blinding white. IMHO the biggest problem with shooting scenics is that you have to wait for the right light -you just can't take a shot when it's convinient...

As for shooting RAW I think you should never have your camera set to any other file mode. Even though I do very little post processing I always shoot RAW now, and I explain why here: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2007/03/i-shoot-raw-and-so-should-you.html

Well thank you very much John, I always shoot in RAW
Nice examples you posted too, it will be Fall when I am in Canada and USA,
But there is always the chance of Snow still on the Mountains

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it .... Skippy
.

Swartzy

Additional thoughts
Use what's there. As Andy pointed out, use those hum drum skies to your advantage and post with RAW.



Conversions make interesting landscapes to where in color the shot lacks interest



I'd also add, to focus on things around you to find as an interesting subject for the forefront of your landscape. Having a good subject will bring the viewer's eye back to review the photo rather than it simply wandering out over the horizon.

Dalantech

anwmn1 wrote:

Agreed if the location is near the home than get up early one morning or go out early evening. Keep the camera with you, never know when that sky is going to present you with a perfect photo op.

Same here -it's always in the car. Most of my scenics are the result of always having the camera with me...

Dalantech

Swartzy wrote:

Use what's there. As Andy pointed out, use those hum drum skies to your advantage and post with RAW.



Conversions make interesting landscapes to where in color the shot lacks interest

A perfect example of when to toss out the rule of thirds and make one area of the frame very dominant -well done!!!

I did the same thing for this image -shooting with the rule of thirds wouldn't have worked...

Skippy

Colour Enhancement ???

Question here you are in USA or Canada, just so happens it is FALL or Autumn as we in the land of Oz call it.

A gorgeous amount of colour is seen in your Scene BUT how do you capture this amazing colour?

Do you add a filter?
If so what are you adding?
Or do you capture the scene, and in your post processing enhance the colours in the image that way?

I'm trying to figure out what I need to take on the Dgrin ShootOut.
...... Skippy
.

anwmn1

Skippy wrote:

Colour Enhancement ???

Question here you are in USA or Canada, just so happens it is FALL or Autumn as we in the land of Oz call it.

A gorgeous amount of colour is seen in your Scene BUT how do you capture this amazing colour?

Do you add a filter?
If so what are you adding?
Or do you capture the scene, and in your post processing enhance the colours in the image that way?

I'm trying to figure out what I need to take on the Dgrin ShootOut.
...... Skippy
.

Skippy-

Nothing but a novice here but with the ability to adjust the color in the camera while shooting and the ability to adjust in Post Process, not sure the cost of filters would be worth it.

I think ND and Gradient are a must and then look at some of the special effects filters like blur and star. Exception would be if you can get a great deal on a filter package that includes colors or if I am wrong "ofcourse".