Question: How do all of you that do macros get that black-void background?
Thanks Zoom, the black background is a "side effect" of using such a small aperture that even daylight lit objects are black. Only objects that are illuminated with the flash show up. Try taking a pic at ISO 100 f/11 1/125, your image will be completely black. It is a good technique to simplify the background. Some folks use a second flash to light the background. The other option is to use a tripod with a slow enough shutter speed to get the proper exposure. This will give a more natural background, but any motion will ruin the picture.
Thanks Zoom, the black background is a "side effect" of using such a small aperture that even daylight lit objects are black. Only objects that are illuminated with the flash show up. Try taking a pic at ISO 100 f/11 1/125, your image will be completely black. It is a good technique to simplify the background. Some folks use a second flash to light the background. The other option is to use a tripod with a slow enough shutter speed to get the proper exposure. This will give a more natural background, but any motion will ruin the picture.
You're welcome!
All that sounds neat. But I don't think I can get an ISO of 100 while it's in A, M, P or S. Just 200, 400, 800 and 1600 in those settings. Other ISO numbers can be just about anything if I set the camera on the other settings, such as Auto.
I have no idea how to get an aperture of F11 unless it's on any setting except for A, M, P and S. While in Auto or the other regular settings, I've seen it at ISO 100 (or even 50... I think) and as high as an F10.
Could I get a picture that large and sharp/vivid with a 50mm F1.4 lens (which is the next lens I'd like to try out)... or did you crop and enhance all of your macros? All I have is an 18-50mm and 70-300mm and one 2x teleconverter and no extension tubes yet. I'm still working on getting a Lighsphere... Clear or Cloud. Just haven't decided yet. I've heard the LS is great for macros, as well as portraits and just about anything else.
All that sounds neat. But I don't think I can get an ISO of 100 while it's in A, M, P or S. Just 200, 400, 800 and 1600 in those settings. Other ISO numbers can be just about anything if I set the camera on the other settings, such as Auto.
I have no idea how to get an aperture of F11 unless it's on any setting except for A, M, P and S. While in Auto or the other regular settings, I've seen it at ISO 100 (or even 50... I think) and as high as an F10.
Could I get a picture that large and sharp/vivid with a 50mm F1.4 lens (which is the next lens I'd like to try out)... or did you crop and enhance all of your macros? All I have is an 18-50mm and 70-300mm and one 2x teleconverter and no extension tubes yet. I'm still working on getting a Lighsphere... Clear or Cloud. Just haven't decided yet. I've heard the LS is great for macros, as well as portraits and just about anything else.
You have to be in Manual mode to set both the f/stop and shutter speed as I described.
The 50mm is a sweet lens, but you are not going to really get macro shots unless you mount it to extension tubes, preferably reversed, which is another discussion all together. I am using a 100 2.8 macro lens which also doubles as a very nice portrait lens, especially on a 1.3 or 1.6 cropped sensor. I use Kenko extension tubes in order focus more closely. The shot above is only slightly cropped. Hope this helps.
Comments
very neat-
george
My Gallery
You must be the King of Macros.
Very detailed shot, especially its red eyes area.
Question: How do all of you that do macros get that black-void background?
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Camera: Nikon D50
Lens: Sigma 18-50mm F3.5-5.6 DC
Flash: Nikon SB600 SpeedLight
Vertical Powergrip: Opteka Platinum Series
Flash Diffuser: Lightsphere II (Clear)
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Fisher-Advent Audio
Thanks George. Glad you liked it.
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Thankyou Awais, your comments are always appreciated.
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Thanks Zoom, the black background is a "side effect" of using such a small aperture that even daylight lit objects are black. Only objects that are illuminated with the flash show up. Try taking a pic at ISO 100 f/11 1/125, your image will be completely black. It is a good technique to simplify the background. Some folks use a second flash to light the background. The other option is to use a tripod with a slow enough shutter speed to get the proper exposure. This will give a more natural background, but any motion will ruin the picture.
TML Photography
tmlphoto.com
You're welcome!
All that sounds neat. But I don't think I can get an ISO of 100 while it's in A, M, P or S. Just 200, 400, 800 and 1600 in those settings. Other ISO numbers can be just about anything if I set the camera on the other settings, such as Auto.
I have no idea how to get an aperture of F11 unless it's on any setting except for A, M, P and S. While in Auto or the other regular settings, I've seen it at ISO 100 (or even 50... I think) and as high as an F10.
Could I get a picture that large and sharp/vivid with a 50mm F1.4 lens (which is the next lens I'd like to try out)... or did you crop and enhance all of your macros? All I have is an 18-50mm and 70-300mm and one 2x teleconverter and no extension tubes yet. I'm still working on getting a Lighsphere... Clear or Cloud. Just haven't decided yet. I've heard the LS is great for macros, as well as portraits and just about anything else.
My Gear
Camera: Nikon D50
Lens: Sigma 18-50mm F3.5-5.6 DC
Flash: Nikon SB600 SpeedLight
Vertical Powergrip: Opteka Platinum Series
Flash Diffuser: Lightsphere II (Clear)
Teleconverter: Quantaray 2x
Lens Filters: 2 SunPak UV 58mm
Card: Lexar Platinum II 512mb/60x
Bag: Canon 200DG
Printer: Canon PIXMA iP6700D
Fisher-Advent Audio
You have to be in Manual mode to set both the f/stop and shutter speed as I described.
The 50mm is a sweet lens, but you are not going to really get macro shots unless you mount it to extension tubes, preferably reversed, which is another discussion all together. I am using a 100 2.8 macro lens which also doubles as a very nice portrait lens, especially on a 1.3 or 1.6 cropped sensor. I use Kenko extension tubes in order focus more closely. The shot above is only slightly cropped. Hope this helps.
TML Photography
tmlphoto.com
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
Yes, it was alive.
TML Photography
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Thanks LV. Yes, it was with the twin flash. I moved my main light to the right side and have been adjusting the postions a little bit.
I think that the larger flashes may work better than the dedicated macro flashes, but they sure are heavier.
TML Photography
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