Anybody doing their own framing?

kdog

Here's a question for anybody that's experienced in framing.

Here's the short version of the question. How do you attach your prints to the backer board?

Long version....

I've been having fun doing my own framing of 8x10 crops. I make the frames, and use pre-cut mats which I buy. This has worked out well, but now I want to get into larger sizes. Specifically 12x18.

My question is about mounting photos -- that is, attaching the prints to the backer board. On my 8x10's, I don't actually attach them. I simply sandwich the print between the mat and the backer board. I use one little dab of tape to hold the print in place while I put the the backer board on and secure the whole mess in place with glazier points. However, I fear this won't work on the really big prints. I would imagine they'll sag in the middle. So I think I'm supposed to stick them down. There seems to be a wide assortment of adhesives which are used for the purpose. There are also backerboard with glue already applied. And there are also sheets of glue that you iron on. Too many choices for my small mind. And what about rollers? I need one of those too, right?

So what's the hot set-up these days?

Thanks and regards,
-joel

Malte

I've done this with 8x10 prints, maybe a tad bigger. I used spray glue (made for photographs) on acid-free backing. Roll upp the print and roll it onto the glued backing.

Malte

kdog

Malte wrote:

I've done this with 8x10 prints, maybe a tad bigger. I used spray glue (made for photographs) on acid-free backing. Roll upp the print and roll it onto the glued backing.

Malte

Thanks, Malte. That's interesting. You just roll the print onto the backing without using a roller or anything? I'll give that a try.

There's also "repositionable" adhesive. That might be worth a try as well.

Thanks for your input.
-joel

Malte

As I remember it I didn't need to use a roller, just swept it out with my hand (cotton glove). I wouldn't trust repositionable to last, atleast not if it's anything like those photo albums that use it.

Malte

Bob&Glennie

I do a lot of framing and mounting for customers and , although a permanant photo mount spray works well, I find it messy. I recently discovered foamcore with an adhesive already applied to the surface. It has a peelable protective paper coating similar to double sticky carpet tape that you peel off and then stick down your print. You MUST be very careful to get the position right first time so I'd recommend NOT cutting the foam board to the final dimensions until AFTER you stick down your print. Also, you must be careful to roll your print onto the mount gradually and not get any air bubbles trapped beneath it. The only way to relieve a bubble is to punch a tiny pin hole in the middle of the bubble and work the air toward it. This product will also hold your matts in place until you get the assembly into your frame.

Ask at a reputable art supply store and they should be able to help you find such a product.

Goog luck
Bob

kdog

Malte wrote:

As I remember it I didn't need to use a roller, just swept it out with my hand (cotton glove). I wouldn't trust repositionable to last, atleast not if it's anything like those photo albums that use it.
Malte

Thanks again, Malte. The cotton glove idea sounds very good.

You may be right about the repositionable adhesive. The places that sell it specifically say it's not for permanent installations. Darn. It does sound convenient.

-joel

kdog

Thanks for the info, Bob. I've seen several of the self-stick mounting boards on the market. Of course, I just bought 10 sheets of foam-core. So I'll most likely try a spray adhesive until that's gone, then maybe switch to the self-stick backings.

I appreciate your input.

-joel

USAIR

Anyone have links for frames,matts,backing.
Been doing this myself but trying to get setup for some local art shows
Ideas?

Thanks
Fred

WaterfallRich

USAIR wrote:

Anyone have links for frames,matts,backing.
Been doing this myself but trying to get setup for some local art shows
Ideas?

Thanks
Fred

http://www.framingsupplies.com/

I live about 30 minutes from these folks so it saves me on shipping charges.

Bakat

mounting prints

kdog wrote:

Here's a question for anybody that's experienced in framing.

Here's the short version of the question. How do you attach your prints to the backer board?

-joel

Joel,
For 35 years my father ran a gallery in the "Highlands" (read as "artsy part of town") in Louisville KY. Picture framing was his "bread & butter", he's framed a great many originals for artists and collectors, including the originals to many KY Derby posters. So here's what dear old Dad had to say...

"Permanantly mounting any work of art is tantamount to ruining the peice, I would never dry mount (I'll get into dry mounting in a moment) a limited edition print or original work unless directed to do so by the owner. Dry mounting a limited edition print devalues it."

He has had artists request that their photos be dry mounted so there is no possibility that the work will ever warp and other artists gasp at the mention that the work be mounted.

Most frame shop suppliers will sell to the general public and they sell a roll of archival quality, white, acid free tape specifically for this type of job. Dad said he's reframed large prints (for people who have redecorated) to find his original 3 inch peice tape still holding. The tape is heat released so gently heating it with a blow dryer will remove the tape without ruining the print. Also he said if your tape is good you will only need 1 piece in the center top; multiple pieces (say one on each side) invites warping because the paper can't expand and contract with the heat and humidity.

Moving on to heat and humidity which we have TONS of here in the Ohio valley; if as the artist, you don't mind permanantly mounting your works of art, Dad suggests biting the bullet and buying a used dry mount press. It provides the best look. That is if you intend to do a lot of this type of thing.

Don't know if this helps at all, good luck.
Kat

P.S. In case you are curious my photos are all dry mounted to black foamcore board, cut at an angle. I like the clean contemporary look. But Dad's work (he's also an artist) is all taped to acid free mat boards.

Seefutlung

I've been matting and framing up to 16x20 using tape.

Gary

kdog

Kat,

That's great information. I think it's extremely cool that you and your father are both artists, and have evolved into separate ways of doing things, and yet still respect each others preferences.

I can understand your father's point of view perfectly. The permanance of dry mounting the photograph was something that I considered. However, in this digital age, we can whip out another print whenever we want. My photos will never be collector items. I just want to hang them around the house, and maybe do some framing for friends. But still the tape idea sounds so easy, and if it does the job, then why would anybody want to work harder?

I'm having a hard time understanding envisioning how effective the tape would be for me however. I'm guessing it relies on having a very thick print with absolutely no wrinkles in order for it to hang perfectly straight. I've been geting 12x18 prints done at Costco, and the paper is fairly thin. I'm wondering if would really be free of imperfections that way. I would like to buy some of the tape and give it a try though. Any chance you could provide a link or name of the product?

Also, I'd love to know a bit more about your mounting system. What's the bevel on the foam core for? Are you using a frame? If so, then the bevel would be hidden. It sounds like you're hanging up the picture mounted to the board without a frame maybe. Could you please clarify?

I looked up dry mount presses, and those products seem to be all over the map. Would a vacuum press work? I've been accumulating parts for a vacuum press for my woodworking. Maybe I ought to get that project completed.

Thanks again, and sorry about all the questions.
-joel

kdog

Seefutlung wrote:

I've been matting and framing up to 16x20 using tape.

Gary

Gary, that's awesome. Ok, I'm getting more interested in tape. Can you tell me what product you use, and how you place the tape? (Ie, one small piece like Kat's dad, or do you use more?)

Thanks a bunch.
-joel

Bakat

Black beveled foamcore

kdog wrote:

Kat,

Any chance you could provide a link or name of the product?

Also, I'd love to know a bit more about your mounting system. What's the bevel on the foam core for? Are you using a frame? If so, then the bevel would be hidden. It sounds like you're hanging up the picture mounted to the board without a frame maybe. Could you please clarify?


Thanks again, and sorry about all the questions.
-joel

Joel,
I'll get the name of that tape but It'll be tomorrow.

The bevel on my photos are beveled out (kind of like beveled glass) so they create a "shadow" or the hint of a frame.

No coments on the pics, I have to fly outta here and pick up mykids from school!

Kat

Bakat

Here's a close up of the beveled edge.
Kat

kdog

Suweeeet!!! That really is a great contemporary look.

I'm a woodworker and make my own wooden frames. We have lots of bare white walls, and the wood warms the place up. So I'm hoping the tape trick will work for me. But I'm definitely going to keep your approach in mind for other applications as well. It's a great look. And hey, you're photos are nice too.

-joel

Osprey Whisperer

Another one here...with the "tape" method. I use archival adhesive tape. (kind museums use for mat work). It's acid free and IIRC made from cloth and non destructive adhesive.

I use one long strip on the top edge of the print. The whole length of the print and a tad more. I let the print hang freely. Only tape the top edge and let hang. This allows for any expansion/shrinkage of your materials used for framing. When I print, I print WITH BORDERS. This leaves a nice white edge for taping.

I tape print to backing board and then sandwich the top mat(s) between my frames/glass. Simple, effective way to mat your work. I often use a double mat. If appropriate, I use a spaced double mat with foam coare or double thick mat as spacer to offset the mats from each other. This creates a shadow. I keep it simple. White linen mats only. Don't like the color mat thing. Mats are suppose to offset your work...not compete/detract from it.

Good luck.

kdog

Thanks a bunch, Mike. You've given us lots of great information here. I like the shadow box idea. I'm definitely going to give that a try.

Bird Man Photographer wrote:

Don't like the color mat thing. Mats are suppose to offset your work...not compete/detract from it.

Maybe your work, but my work needs all the help it can get.

Seriously, so far, all my nature pictures have used plain white mat. However, we're thinking of using color for some other non-nature shots that we've blown up. My wife and mother-in-law just spent about 2 hours picking out colors for them, so I really don't have a choice in the matter at this point. :uhoh

Cheers,
-joel

rdlugosz

Wow - those black foam cores are slick with the bevel cut... do you use a special tool to cut those?

A question for folks mounting, matting, and framing: Assuming you mount to foam core cut to the exact size of your print, what's the best way to attach the foam core to the mat? A piece of tape across the back-top? Then put it in the frame?

Malte

rdlugosz wrote:

Wow - those black foam cores are slick with the bevel cut... do you use a special tool to cut those?

A question for folks mounting, matting, and framing: Assuming you mount to foam core cut to the exact size of your print, what's the best way to attach the foam core to the mat? A piece of tape across the back-top? Then put it in the frame?

I haven't attached it att all, just squeezed it between the glass and backing. The way you describe it sounds like glueing the front of the print? That would be sacriledge in my book. I have been passed down a few turn of the century prints from my granddads parents and they have sticky-tape on the front to hold it together.

Malte

rdlugosz

Malte wrote:

I haven't attached it att all, just squeezed it between the glass and backing. The way you describe it sounds like glueing the front of the print? That would be sacriledge in my book. I have been passed down a few turn of the century prints from my granddads parents and they have sticky-tape on the front to hold it together.

Malte

Oh no - I wouldn't consider taping the front... I mean, is the pressure of the mounted print between the mat and the back of the frame enough to hold it in place, or do you need to attach the mounting board to the mat somehow first?

Malte

This thread is becoming quite the gem, I'm loving all the expertise! Like taping the top of the print and letting it hang, I'm definately trying that next time.

What is foam core and for how long has it been around?

Malte

kdog

Foam core has been around forever. It's a sheet of expanded foam (like polystyrene or something), bonded on either side by a sheet of paper. The combination essentially has a torsion box effect (if you're into those). It's incredibly stiff for it's weight, which essentially is zero. It comes in different thicknesses. I think 3/16" is the standard for photo mounting.

Thanks,
-joel

kdog

I'm still waiting for somebody to give a reference for the tape. Will this do?

http://www.redimat.com/scotch_photo_document_tape_doube-stick.html

Mike? Kat?

Also, why tape the print to the backing board? That makes it hard to align exactly. Why not tape it to the back of the mat with single-sided tape? Actually, that's what I usually do now with my 8x10 prints. I just use a spot of masking tape. It's really the friction that holds the print in place. Maybe I should get archival quality single-sided tape and use that.

Thanks,
-joel

WaterfallRich

kdog wrote:

I'm still waiting for somebody to give a reference for the tape. Will this do?

I'm thinking they mean the linen tape on this page - http://www.framingsupplies.com/ToolsTapesGlues/ToolsTapesGlues.htm

Could be wrong, tho, and don't mind being corrected. I've only been matting and framing for myself and friends/family, but only sell the prints to customers until I have a better handle on matting and framing techniques. Prints 11x14 and larger come to me rolled in a tube for protection. I try flattening them out by unrolling them on acid free backing board, laying a larger piece of glass on top of that, then adding weight to the glass. It works for the most part, but when I tried the tape hinging technique, the print still showed signs of 'warping' from being rolled when I matted and framed the print. Any ideas on flattening a rolled print??

Yorkie Dad

Link to site I use

USAIR wrote:

Anyone have links for frames,matts,backing.
Been doing this myself but trying to get setup for some local art shows
Ideas?

Thanks
Fred

http://www.documounts.com/ I use this site to order supplys. They also have a good set of instructions on matting and mounting on the site under 'Helpful Tips'.

Malte

rdlugosz wrote:

Oh no - I wouldn't consider taping the front... I mean, is the pressure of the mounted print between the mat and the back of the frame enough to hold it in place, or do you need to attach the mounting board to the mat somehow first?

Oh, I see. Don't think so, as long as the print is mounted on cardboard in the same size as the frame, it should be fine. In my case I glued the print to cardboard, cut them to the size of the frame and put it in the frame with matte and backing.

Malte

NHBubba

Bob&Glennie wrote:

I recently discovered foamcore with an adhesive already applied to the surface. It has a peelable protective paper coating similar to double sticky carpet tape that you peel off and then stick down your print. ... This product will also hold your matts in place until you get the assembly into your frame.

I have been mounting to foamcore as well. Unfortunately I now find that the foam-core board w/ print mounted and a nice mat does not fit in anything but the deepest of frames! Do you find this as well? How have you worked around it?

iyacyas

OK, so now that you all have me inspired to try my hand at doing my own framing vs. taking the retail bath on bainbridge museum frames .... appreciate the great information this thread has generated...

To extend this topic a bit, does anyone have good insight to what types of glass to use and what's the most cost effective method of buying ? (pre-cut vs. cutting your own, etc.)

Thanks,

Michael