Although those are fabulous, I think similar quality work has been posted here. I think the main draw in these photos is that they are crazy lookin bugs. That pryaing mantis/butterfly looking thing is out of this world. I could be wrong but from the looks of the lighting I would think the photographer is either a master at lighting in the field or some or all of these were done in a studio. Regardless of where they were done they are gorgeous shots.
link to the original site: http://www.photo.net/photos/siwanowicz. The original
pics are not so brutally compressed as the ones on the
Russian site. Also, there is plenty more where they
came from.
For those interested, here is some equipment info:
Lens: Canon EF 100 mm/2,8 Macro USM. It gives 1:1
magnification on 35 mm format (or 1.6:1 on the digital
body I'm using). MP-E 65mm would've been an overkill,
really.
Camera body: Canon EOS 10D, I moved to 20D as soon as
it appeared on the market.
Lighting technique: I am using Canon 550EX mounted on
the Manfrotto macro bracket, on a dedicated extension
cord. It's set as a "master". 420EX is set as a
wireless "slave", on a light tripod. I experiment with
the positioning of the light sources and flash heads.
The most important thing is softening/diffusing the
light. I use home-made diffusers (alu-foil, cardboard,
thin paper), shaped something like Lumiquest
Bigbounce.
For those interested, here is some equipment info:
Lens: Canon EF 100 mm/2,8 Macro USM. It gives 1:1
magnification on 35 mm format (or 1.6:1 on the digital
body I'm using).
Actually it just gives you 1:1 magnification. A true macro lens produces a life size image circle -and it doesn't matter what sensor you use to capture the image it's still life size (you just get a built in crop on a 1.6x crop factor sensor). The only way to increase the size of that image circle, and therefore increase the magnification, is to physically move the lens away from the sensor (extension tubes), add a diopter, reverse another lens onto the front of that 100mm, or add a teleconverter. If you are shooting with a bare 100mm macro lens then the maximum magnification that you'll get is life size -on any digital camera. I know a lot of people who were shooting macro with the 20D and were disappointed when they upgraded to the 5D. Subjects that use to fill a 20D's sensor looked small on the full sized sensor of the 5D but it wasn't due to a decrease in magnification -you can get the same "look" just by cropping the 5D image down to 8 megapixels...
Actually it just gives you 1:1 magnification. A true macro lens produces a life size image circle -and it doesn't matter what sensor you use to capture the image it's still life size (you just get a built in crop on a 1.6x crop factor sensor). ...
I kinda wish it did work like you posted -would be kinda cool to go above life size without having to do anything special. But the 1.6x cameras crop the image circle, but they don't magnify it -and I wouldn't feel bad about getting confused. I think I read an article in Outdoor Photographer recently where the author made the same mistake (called it a 1.6x magnification factor ).
If you want to get close to 1.6x life size with that 100mm then add Canon's 1.4 teleconverter and a 12mm tube (you need the tube so you can connect the lens and the TC together, otherwise it won't work). The maximum focusing distance is reduced to about 1.2 meters, but at about 6" from the front of the lens you'll get 1.6x life size
For those interested, here is some equipment info:
Lens: Canon EF 100 mm/2,8 Macro USM. It gives 1:1
magnification on 35 mm format (or 1.6:1 on the digital
body I'm using). MP-E 65mm would've been an overkill,
really.
Camera body: Canon EOS 10D, I moved to 20D as soon as
it appeared on the market.
Lighting technique: I am using Canon 550EX mounted on
the Manfrotto macro bracket, on a dedicated extension
cord. It's set as a "master". 420EX is set as a
wireless "slave", on a light tripod. I experiment with
the positioning of the light sources and flash heads.
The most important thing is softening/diffusing the
light. I use home-made diffusers (alu-foil, cardboard,
thin paper), shaped something like Lumiquest
Bigbounce.
Anyway, I am really glad you like my photos!
Igor
I'm so glad you're here!
Your photos are inspiring, thanks for sharing some of your technique.
Glad I saw this in the morning, and not before going to bed!
Comments
The best macro series ever... for me at least...
10x again.
[SIZE=-1]It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice. - John Lennon.[/SIZE]
Lisa
And then to get it in position for the shots and such.
Wow!
Incredible!
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Wow that is a good site.......gosh he's almost as good as our very own BRIAN Skippy (Australia)
Skippy (Australia) - Moderator of "HOLY MACRO" and "OTHER COOL SHOTS"
ALBUM http://ozzieskip.smugmug.com/
:skippy Everyone has the right to be stupid, but some people just abuse the privilege :dgrin
I'm amazed!
http://www.twitter.com/deegolden
SmugMug Technical Account Manager
Travel = good. Woo, shooting!
nickwphoto
well executed and great lighting-looks like bellows work in a studio or field studio
agree some great insects- the cross between a butterfly and mantis is amazing-
wonder what setup is used?
Longitude: 145° 08'East
Canon 20d,EFS-60mm Macro,Canon 85mm/1.8. Pentax Spotmatic SP,Pentax Super Takumars 50/1.4 &135/3.5,Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumars 200/4 ,300/4,400/5.6,Sigma 600/8.
macro work is superb
My Gallery
http://www.photo.net/photos/siwanowicz . The original
pics are not so brutally compressed as the ones on the
Russian site. Also, there is plenty more where they
came from.
Lens: Canon EF 100 mm/2,8 Macro USM. It gives 1:1
magnification on 35 mm format (or 1.6:1 on the digital
body I'm using). MP-E 65mm would've been an overkill,
really.
Camera body: Canon EOS 10D, I moved to 20D as soon as
it appeared on the market.
Lighting technique: I am using Canon 550EX mounted on
the Manfrotto macro bracket, on a dedicated extension
cord. It's set as a "master". 420EX is set as a
wireless "slave", on a light tripod. I experiment with
the positioning of the light sources and flash heads.
The most important thing is softening/diffusing the
light. I use home-made diffusers (alu-foil, cardboard,
thin paper), shaped something like Lumiquest
Bigbounce.
Anyway, I am really glad you like my photos!
Igor
Actually it just gives you 1:1 magnification. A true macro lens produces a life size image circle -and it doesn't matter what sensor you use to capture the image it's still life size (you just get a built in crop on a 1.6x crop factor sensor). The only way to increase the size of that image circle, and therefore increase the magnification, is to physically move the lens away from the sensor (extension tubes), add a diopter, reverse another lens onto the front of that 100mm, or add a teleconverter. If you are shooting with a bare 100mm macro lens then the maximum magnification that you'll get is life size -on any digital camera. I know a lot of people who were shooting macro with the 20D and were disappointed when they upgraded to the 5D. Subjects that use to fill a 20D's sensor looked small on the full sized sensor of the 5D but it wasn't due to a decrease in magnification -you can get the same "look" just by cropping the 5D image down to 8 megapixels...
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Wow, you live and learn...
I kinda wish it did work like you posted -would be kinda cool to go above life size without having to do anything special. But the 1.6x cameras crop the image circle, but they don't magnify it -and I wouldn't feel bad about getting confused. I think I read an article in Outdoor Photographer recently where the author made the same mistake (called it a 1.6x magnification factor ).
If you want to get close to 1.6x life size with that 100mm then add Canon's 1.4 teleconverter and a 12mm tube (you need the tube so you can connect the lens and the TC together, otherwise it won't work). The maximum focusing distance is reduced to about 1.2 meters, but at about 6" from the front of the lens you'll get 1.6x life size
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
I'm so glad you're here!
Your photos are inspiring, thanks for sharing some of your technique.
Glad I saw this in the morning, and not before going to bed!
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au