The overexposed shot of the Green Line trolley station is well focussed with no blur.
I would even question whether the outdoor rail shot is overexposed. That scene contains a very wide range, from the direct sunlight areas to the darkness under the bridge, a much wider range than the few stops (5 or 6 they say) of a digital camera, particularly a point-and-shoot. The camera had to make a hard decision as to where to set exposure. If you squint, half the image looks midtone to dark and those areas look OK. To me, most of the overexposed area is the light dirt on the ground, and under this brightness range those areas would be considered overexposed if they were the primary subject. If the primary subject is the bridge, the camera did what it could. If the blown-out dirt was made darker, the bridge and much of the trees might become too dark. The trees, which make up quite a bit of the picture are properly exposed, so in a scene with a wide angle and a wide brightness range and a lot going on, I don't think it did too badly. It certainly isn't great, I'm just not sure auto exposure could figure out which area you really wanted.
In a situation like that, if I realize that highlights or shadow might clip, I might take a test shot and check the LCD and histogram for clipping. If necessary, I'll use the s60's exposure override features (spot meter mode or exposure lock), meter off my preferred area of the photo, preview it on the LCD and histogram, and adjust exposure if needed. The other photos don't have this problem because they are under a much narrower scene brightness range.
Once I get the time to, I plan on playing around with everything based on the data I pulled from those previous shots.
Also, how do you ensure you are shooting in RAW? The manual didn't appear to clearly describe how to...that or my ADHD is a bit worse than I once thought.
Once I get the time to, I plan on playing around with everything based on the data I pulled from those previous shots.
Also, how do you ensure you are shooting in RAW? The manual didn't appear to clearly describe how to...that or my ADHD is a bit worse than I once thought.
Thanks again everyone!
Turn the camera on by opening the front cover.
Set the mode dial to P (or Tv or A -- but not Auto)
Press the "Func" button - it's the first button in the verrtical row to the left of the LCD
Use the 4-way controller to go all the way down to the S/L selector and you'll see L M1 M2 M3 S RAW
Jog right using the 4-way controller to select RAW and press the center button on the 4-way controller
Press the Func button again to exit
You'll see RAW down in the lower left corner of the LCD when you first turn on the camera, or when you press the Display button to show all the details of the settings.
If you have Adobe Photoshop CS or Elements 3, I suggest using one of those to convert your RAW shots, because in my opinion, their algorithms do a better job than Canon's software, and of couse you can still tweak the shot after the alogorithm has made its initial adjustment.
Turn the camera on by opening the front cover.
Set the mode dial to P (or Tv or A -- but not Auto)
Press the "Func" button - it's the first button in the verrtical row to the left of the LCD
Use the 4-way controller to go all the way down to the S/L selector and you'll see L M1 M2 M3 S RAW
Jog right using the 4-way controller to select RAW and press the center button on the 4-way controller
Press the Func button again to exit
You'll see RAW down in the lower left corner of the LCD when you first turn on the camera, or when you press the Display button to show all the details of the settings.
If you have Adobe Photoshop CS or Elements 3, I suggest using one of those to convert your RAW shots, because in my opinion, their algorithms do a better job than Canon's software, and of couse you can still tweak the shot after the alogorithm has made its initial adjustment.
Hey what is the max frames the s60 can take in interval mode. (TimeLapse) I think it says 100. Why only 100. Can I over ride or reset this so I can take more that 800 in HD resolution. If I have the power and memory why only 100? Also how many frames can fire off within a minute, can I do 4 or 5 frames every min?
Thanks, I want to buy this camera but I want to make sure the intervalometer will work for my needs.
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patch is actually a 13-year old kid
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I am only eight, sorry to disappoint.
I would even question whether the outdoor rail shot is overexposed. That scene contains a very wide range, from the direct sunlight areas to the darkness under the bridge, a much wider range than the few stops (5 or 6 they say) of a digital camera, particularly a point-and-shoot. The camera had to make a hard decision as to where to set exposure. If you squint, half the image looks midtone to dark and those areas look OK. To me, most of the overexposed area is the light dirt on the ground, and under this brightness range those areas would be considered overexposed if they were the primary subject. If the primary subject is the bridge, the camera did what it could. If the blown-out dirt was made darker, the bridge and much of the trees might become too dark. The trees, which make up quite a bit of the picture are properly exposed, so in a scene with a wide angle and a wide brightness range and a lot going on, I don't think it did too badly. It certainly isn't great, I'm just not sure auto exposure could figure out which area you really wanted.
In a situation like that, if I realize that highlights or shadow might clip, I might take a test shot and check the LCD and histogram for clipping. If necessary, I'll use the s60's exposure override features (spot meter mode or exposure lock), meter off my preferred area of the photo, preview it on the LCD and histogram, and adjust exposure if needed. The other photos don't have this problem because they are under a much narrower scene brightness range.
Once I get the time to, I plan on playing around with everything based on the data I pulled from those previous shots.
Also, how do you ensure you are shooting in RAW? The manual didn't appear to clearly describe how to...that or my ADHD is a bit worse than I once thought.
Thanks again everyone!
Turn the camera on by opening the front cover.
Set the mode dial to P (or Tv or A -- but not Auto)
Press the "Func" button - it's the first button in the verrtical row to the left of the LCD
Use the 4-way controller to go all the way down to the S/L selector and you'll see L M1 M2 M3 S RAW
Jog right using the 4-way controller to select RAW and press the center button on the 4-way controller
Press the Func button again to exit
You'll see RAW down in the lower left corner of the LCD when you first turn on the camera, or when you press the Display button to show all the details of the settings.
If you have Adobe Photoshop CS or Elements 3, I suggest using one of those to convert your RAW shots, because in my opinion, their algorithms do a better job than Canon's software, and of couse you can still tweak the shot after the alogorithm has made its initial adjustment.
Thanks a bunch!
Thanks, I want to buy this camera but I want to make sure the intervalometer will work for my needs.