What city was this? On the first shot I'd kick up the saturation a bit and burn in the road, the hot spot on the cycle and the glass cabinets.
On the second, I'd burn in the road, the buildings in the background and a very slight darkening of the cycles and the red bundle. Remember that the eye is attracted to white (bright areas) ... so if you have a bright area in the photo that isn't the center of interest ... the eye will focus on that spot. So darkening areas that are not the center of interest is a good thing, but the darkening needs to be blended into the photo so it looks natural.
What city was this? On the first shot I'd kick up the saturation a bit and burn in the road, the hot spot on the cycle and the glass cabinets.
On the second, I'd burn in the road, the buildings in the background and a very slight darkening of the cycles and the red bundle. Remember that the eye is attracted to white (bright areas) ... so if you have a bright area in the photo that isn't the center of interest ... the eye will focus on that spot. So darkening areas that are not the center of interest is a good thing, but the darkening needs to be blended into the photo so it looks natural.
Hello Gary,
I am posting these photos because of the exposition I talked about.
They are old and have been photoshoped before, say 2 years ago, just after they were shot.
Then I was a lurk in photoshop - I still am but a milimeter less - and I did what I knew.
I wouldn't like to treat them again as quality goes down and down ...
They are more like a registry than anything else. A testimonial. Is this right ? Testimony.
They are over now.
May be I do have more but, now, I don't know where they are... :
They were in my former site with the same name not in SmugMug and they had 120 K. Very small for quality.
I rather bet on those I take now with the new equipment.
I do not know which city it is. One of my difficulties - among many - is to make the corresponding shot to the place. We have been in so many places that after, we don't remember the names.
I am lazy enought not to go and see in the travel program...
Once I thought to buy a GPS connected to the camera: one more stuff to carry and we can't connect it directly to our Canons. Nikon can, not canon.
So, registries GPS from one side and photos from the other: mess, computer programs to make the correspondence, etc., etc.. Oh no. No...
You can also use the "Brush" tool. It will deliver color/darkness to just the area required without a halo (which happens with the lasso).
You can adjust the size of the brush, the concentration (opacity) of the application (for burning start around 5% and burn in repeatedly to desired darkness). In this case use the "Color Burn" mode.
You can also use the "Brush" tool. It will deliver color/darkness to just the area required without a halo (which happens with the lasso).
You can adjust the size of the brush, the concentration (opacity) of the application (for burning start around 5% and burn in repeatedly to desired darkness). In this case use the "Color Burn" mode.
Gary: You are a friendly guy. I knew it already but ... :
Indeed the Brush tool is very good and easy to work with.
Obrigado.
I've been reading Dan' book about LAB mode but it is very un-digestif !...
I made some improvements but still a long way to run...
Comments
What did you do in post on #1 ?
Fred
http://www.facebook.com/Riverbendphotos
Can you be more specific, please ?
What city was this? On the first shot I'd kick up the saturation a bit and burn in the road, the hot spot on the cycle and the glass cabinets.
On the second, I'd burn in the road, the buildings in the background and a very slight darkening of the cycles and the red bundle. Remember that the eye is attracted to white (bright areas) ... so if you have a bright area in the photo that isn't the center of interest ... the eye will focus on that spot. So darkening areas that are not the center of interest is a good thing, but the darkening needs to be blended into the photo so it looks natural.
Unsharp at any Speed
I am posting these photos because of the exposition I talked about.
They are old and have been photoshoped before, say 2 years ago, just after they were shot.
Then I was a lurk in photoshop - I still am but a milimeter less - and I did what I knew.
I wouldn't like to treat them again as quality goes down and down ...
They are more like a registry than anything else. A testimonial. Is this right ? Testimony.
They are over now.
May be I do have more but, now, I don't know where they are...
They were in my former site with the same name not in SmugMug and they had 120 K. Very small for quality.
I rather bet on those I take now with the new equipment.
I do not know which city it is. One of my difficulties - among many - is to make the corresponding shot to the place. We have been in so many places that after, we don't remember the names.
I am lazy enought not to go and see in the travel program...
Once I thought to buy a GPS connected to the camera: one more stuff to carry and we can't connect it directly to our Canons. Nikon can, not canon.
So, registries GPS from one side and photos from the other: mess, computer programs to make the correspondence, etc., etc.. Oh no. No...
I invite you to go to
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?p=347018#post347018
and see.
One have to be very carefull using the Hightlight / Shadow command !!!
I don't like to use it. It gives a white halo ...
Saúde e obrigado.
You can also use the "Brush" tool. It will deliver color/darkness to just the area required without a halo (which happens with the lasso).
You can adjust the size of the brush, the concentration (opacity) of the application (for burning start around 5% and burn in repeatedly to desired darkness). In this case use the "Color Burn" mode.
Unsharp at any Speed
Gary: You are a friendly guy. I knew it already but ...
Indeed the Brush tool is very good and easy to work with.
Obrigado.
I've been reading Dan' book about LAB mode but it is very un-digestif !...
I made some improvements but still a long way to run...
Are you OK ?
Hope so.