Todays macro mix
gluwater
Registered Users Posts: 3,599 Major grins
I got my new to me 180L a couple days ago and got to go out and use it today. So far I'm pleased with the lens but frustrated with myself. I still have not figured out how to use the flash in a pleasing way, and also I need to use a higher shutter speed due to the extra length of the lens. These shots are alright but I know I can do better.
I hate the plant in this shot but I love the wing blur, especially over the body.
Cropped from a landscape shot.
I like the colors a lot in this shot.
Im not sure about this one, what do you think?
I hate the plant in this shot but I love the wing blur, especially over the body.
Cropped from a landscape shot.
I like the colors a lot in this shot.
Im not sure about this one, what do you think?
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Geezzz Nick those are really cool yeah I really like that Second shot that ones a really beauty ..... Macro looks easy but as you know it's not, it's really quite hard to do, I followed Brians advice for the Flash.
Set the Camera to Manual Mode shutter speed of 200, F stop of around F11 to F14 and the Flash is on Auto seems to work okay so far.
Good Stuff Nick ..... thanks for sharing........ Skippy (Australia)
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I think the secret to macro, like most other types of photography is lighting. Not any real secret of course, but frequently overlooked in macro work. Using flash gives you great freedom to control the lighting.
The shooter needs to get the flash off the camera if it is to be the main light source, or use existing light in a pleasing manner ( sidelighting, backlighting, highlighting etc ) and maybe add flash as fill to control contrast.
Keeping your backgrounds clean and simple can also be a big help. That is one real advantage of the 180 macros - it is much easier to control the backgrounds and keep them simple. Closeups shot with 400mm lenses allow lovely background bokeh - May need an extension tube to get close enough.
Sidelighting with flash can be very useful with a diffuser over the flash like TML was doing with a Fong Light Sphere. If you shoot in manual mode in the camera in High Speed Synch with a small aperture, you can light the forground with flash and let the background go black due to underexposure which is helpful shooting bugs in bushy vegetation also.
Contrasting colors can also work - I like skippers too:):
Simple backgrounds isolate the subject and can offer nice color contrast
Or the image can be monochromatic
You've got good tools, Nick, and a good eye. I look forward to what you start capturing and creating.
I think I like your second shot the best.
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Travel = good. Woo, shooting!
nickwphoto
SmugMug Technical Account Manager
Travel = good. Woo, shooting!
nickwphoto
SmugMug Technical Account Manager
Travel = good. Woo, shooting!
nickwphoto
Nice shots! This last one is superb....how far away with that new lens? I was goofing around yesterday after an appointment and this lady had these in her front yard, so I took a few shots. This one I focused on the middle pod...there are like little flower shoots growing from the top of the pod...have no idea what kind of plant this is.
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Travel = good. Woo, shooting!
nickwphoto
As for the high shutter speed: If you use a balance of flash and natural light then the shutter speed is irrelevant. Let me explain...
If you are shooting at 1/3 life size or higher magnification the "Sunny 16" rule doesn't really apply so even on a bright sunny day you can set your camera to 1/250, F11, and ISO 100 and you'll be using the sun as "fill flash" for the background and the flash on your camera as the primary source of light for the subject. Since the subject will be dark if the flash doesn't fire the duration of the flash becomes your shutter speed -around 1/1400 of a second. At that "shutter speed" it's easy to hand hold any lens...
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
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My point exactly - your aperture controls the amount of light from the strobe on the near subject, and the shutter speed ( in manual mode ) limits the amount of fill light from the sun, and hence, by adjusting the shutter speed higher, you can force the background clutter to go black due to underexposure. Not something you always choose to do, but something that is nice to have available.:):
This is particularly useful when you use two strobes or a strobe and a reflector for near, and want the background darker than the subject.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin