Bagan is analagous, in a sense, to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, although it does not have uninterrupted service as a major religious center, and it is a whole group of buldings and building complexes spread over 16 square miles. There are over 2,500 abandoned or semi-abandoned religious structures here.
In 1989 the name was changed to Bagan from Pagan, along with many other names in the country. Strangely, the name "Bagan" is used almost universally, even by groups that resist the term "Myanmar."
The city's formal name is(was) Arimaddanapura, which in Pali (the sacred language of Burmese buddhism) means "city of the enemy crusher."
Bagan was founded in the 2nd century AD by the Mon peoples, but was essentially a village until the Burmese moved into the area in the 9th century. Bagan rose to greatness in the 11th Century, when it was the center of the first Burmese empire established by Anawrahta, who overthrew the Mon empire, claimed their Pali Tripitaka from them, and established Therevada Buddhism as the state religion by importing members of the Sangha (Therevadan Clergy) from Sri Lanka. Anawrahta made Bagan the center of Therevada buddhism in south east asia, and began a building campaign which lasted until the violent destruction of the city at the hands of the Mongols in 1287 which ended the 1st Burmese Empire.
Sunset over the Irrawaddy, Bagan
We got to Bagan while it was still light, but had little time to take photos after arranging a hotel. We did, however, manage to get some sunset shots. The best place to take photos for sunset/sunrise is from the top of the Dhammayangyi Temple, the largest structure in Bagan. As you can see in the photo above, its a good idea to bring a polarizing filter.
The great thing about Bagan is that you can get right up in everything. I am sure this drives archeologists to distraction, but for photogs its magnificent. You can scurry about on top of and inside all the monuments, the only limitation being being your girth and your fear of snakes. This will last until some jack ass tourist leaves grafitti (this hasn't happened yet), as the locals regard all these sites as holy. They don't care if you climb on them, but you have to take your shoes off to do so (climbing with shoes is disrespectful.)
Here is a better shot of the Irrawaddy banks.
Prices in Bagan are cheap. The government socks you for a $10 fee as soon as you get off the boat for "reconstruction purposes" (they are planning to build a golf course and an observation tower) but then you catch a cheap cab to "New Bagan" The village everyone was forced to move to from "Old Bagan" a few years ago. The military gave them 24 hours notice.
The hotel was quite nice, it had teak floors, a teak bed, comfortable mattress, and a friendly english speaking staff- all for $14 a night. They also rent bicycles ( a grwat way to get around) for $1 per half-day, or you can get a horse cart and driver for $6/day. Airport Shuttles are available as well in an ancient truck.
The Best Curry I have ever had in my life was in New Bagan- I can't recall the name of the place, but its at the end of the strip that has about 6 restaurants on it (New Bagan is the size of a postage stamp, so you can't really miss it).
We hit the sack, and the next morning rented bikes to check out the ancient city.
The temples and religious structures vary in size a great deal. Some of them are tiny, and sit in the middle of active tomato fields.
Stupas and Tomatos
Buddha Stupas, Bagan
Others are huge, like the giant Thatbyinnyu temple, the highest in Bagan at 61 meters.
Thyatbyinnyu Paya at dusk
Another "Stupas in the Mist" shot
While many of the stupas are totally deserted, there is quite a lot of activity going on in Old Bagan. Many of the farmers return to tend their fields there:
Farming in the Ruins
And there are constant festivals and religious devotional activities at many of the sites, which are still quite active temples.
At the end of the rainy season they ahve what is called the "Kathina" the festival of new robes. The locals supply the monks, young and old, with new robes, money, and other presents to sustain them trhough the year. Everyone eats and drinks at these ceremonies, and if you see one you will have tea and sticky rice cakes forced upon you as well. Do not try to resist. 1st- it's terribly rude. 2nd- the tea is the best you can get for under $100 per lb. in the US.
Excited Young Monks at the Kathina festival
The money given to the monestaries is arranged in origami like decorations, and is all brand new. here is where you are likely to see those 5 Kyat notes we were talking about.
Two monks in front of Mon Style Pagoda
The most Active religious center in Bagan is the Ananda Pahto, built in 1105 by king Kyazintha. It is one of the few stupas with extensive internal spaces, dominated by 4 giant golden buddhas representing the 4 cardinal directions.
The Ananda Pahto at Night
the Buddhas inside are entirely covered with gold, and quite huge.
Inside the Ananda Pahto
Ananda Pahto Hallway
Some of the structures are quite well cleared away from debris, and accessible.
Others are more "jungly."
Another Major functioning religious structure is the Schwezigon Paya. It supposedly contains a tooth of the Buddha.
Shwezigon Courtyard
Shwezigon Stupa
Mad Chronic in the Shwizay to the Gizon. Even Biggy never spliffed up like this.
Well, thanks for taking a look at my little travelogue. I hope you have enjoyed reading it as much as I have writing it.
Coming in septmber, Uzbekistan and the Fergana Valley!
the Author leaves you with an appropriately sentimential photo, referencing an exit.
It was a great work.
To photograph and make references for the photos ...
Myanmar: a place to visit (again).
I couldn't do such a work...
Saúde e dinheiro para viagens !!! thumbthumb
It was a great work.
To photograph and make references for the photos ...
Myanmar: a place to visit (again).
I couldn't do such a work...
Saúde e dinheiro para viagens !!! thumbthumb
Comments
The aerial view of the fruit sellers, the young monk, the fisherman on the bridge... very nice.
Part VII- Bagan (Pagan)
Bagan is analagous, in a sense, to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, although it does not have uninterrupted service as a major religious center, and it is a whole group of buldings and building complexes spread over 16 square miles. There are over 2,500 abandoned or semi-abandoned religious structures here.
In 1989 the name was changed to Bagan from Pagan, along with many other names in the country. Strangely, the name "Bagan" is used almost universally, even by groups that resist the term "Myanmar."
The city's formal name is(was) Arimaddanapura, which in Pali (the sacred language of Burmese buddhism) means "city of the enemy crusher."
Bagan was founded in the 2nd century AD by the Mon peoples, but was essentially a village until the Burmese moved into the area in the 9th century. Bagan rose to greatness in the 11th Century, when it was the center of the first Burmese empire established by Anawrahta, who overthrew the Mon empire, claimed their Pali Tripitaka from them, and established Therevada Buddhism as the state religion by importing members of the Sangha (Therevadan Clergy) from Sri Lanka. Anawrahta made Bagan the center of Therevada buddhism in south east asia, and began a building campaign which lasted until the violent destruction of the city at the hands of the Mongols in 1287 which ended the 1st Burmese Empire.
Sunset over the Irrawaddy, Bagan
We got to Bagan while it was still light, but had little time to take photos after arranging a hotel. We did, however, manage to get some sunset shots. The best place to take photos for sunset/sunrise is from the top of the Dhammayangyi Temple, the largest structure in Bagan. As you can see in the photo above, its a good idea to bring a polarizing filter.
The great thing about Bagan is that you can get right up in everything. I am sure this drives archeologists to distraction, but for photogs its magnificent. You can scurry about on top of and inside all the monuments, the only limitation being being your girth and your fear of snakes. This will last until some jack ass tourist leaves grafitti (this hasn't happened yet), as the locals regard all these sites as holy. They don't care if you climb on them, but you have to take your shoes off to do so (climbing with shoes is disrespectful.)
Here is a better shot of the Irrawaddy banks.
Prices in Bagan are cheap. The government socks you for a $10 fee as soon as you get off the boat for "reconstruction purposes" (they are planning to build a golf course and an observation tower) but then you catch a cheap cab to "New Bagan" The village everyone was forced to move to from "Old Bagan" a few years ago. The military gave them 24 hours notice.
The hotel was quite nice, it had teak floors, a teak bed, comfortable mattress, and a friendly english speaking staff- all for $14 a night. They also rent bicycles ( a grwat way to get around) for $1 per half-day, or you can get a horse cart and driver for $6/day. Airport Shuttles are available as well in an ancient truck.
The Best Curry I have ever had in my life was in New Bagan- I can't recall the name of the place, but its at the end of the strip that has about 6 restaurants on it (New Bagan is the size of a postage stamp, so you can't really miss it).
We hit the sack, and the next morning rented bikes to check out the ancient city.
The temples and religious structures vary in size a great deal. Some of them are tiny, and sit in the middle of active tomato fields.
Stupas and Tomatos
Buddha Stupas, Bagan
Others are huge, like the giant Thatbyinnyu temple, the highest in Bagan at 61 meters.
Thyatbyinnyu Paya at dusk
Another "Stupas in the Mist" shot
While many of the stupas are totally deserted, there is quite a lot of activity going on in Old Bagan. Many of the farmers return to tend their fields there:
Farming in the Ruins
And there are constant festivals and religious devotional activities at many of the sites, which are still quite active temples.
At the end of the rainy season they ahve what is called the "Kathina" the festival of new robes. The locals supply the monks, young and old, with new robes, money, and other presents to sustain them trhough the year. Everyone eats and drinks at these ceremonies, and if you see one you will have tea and sticky rice cakes forced upon you as well. Do not try to resist. 1st- it's terribly rude. 2nd- the tea is the best you can get for under $100 per lb. in the US.
Excited Young Monks at the Kathina festival
The money given to the monestaries is arranged in origami like decorations, and is all brand new. here is where you are likely to see those 5 Kyat notes we were talking about.
Two monks in front of Mon Style Pagoda
The most Active religious center in Bagan is the Ananda Pahto, built in 1105 by king Kyazintha. It is one of the few stupas with extensive internal spaces, dominated by 4 giant golden buddhas representing the 4 cardinal directions.
The Ananda Pahto at Night
the Buddhas inside are entirely covered with gold, and quite huge.
Inside the Ananda Pahto
Ananda Pahto Hallway
Some of the structures are quite well cleared away from debris, and accessible.
Others are more "jungly."
Another Major functioning religious structure is the Schwezigon Paya. It supposedly contains a tooth of the Buddha.
Shwezigon Courtyard
Shwezigon Stupa
Mad Chronic in the Shwizay to the Gizon. Even Biggy never spliffed up like this.
Well, thanks for taking a look at my little travelogue. I hope you have enjoyed reading it as much as I have writing it.
Coming in septmber, Uzbekistan and the Fergana Valley!
the Author leaves you with an appropriately sentimential photo, referencing an exit.
To photograph and make references for the photos ...
Myanmar: a place to visit (again).
I couldn't do such a work...
Saúde e dinheiro para viagens !!!
E o dinheiro e o tempo que falta!
Saúde !