any suggestions on a camera bag that will hold my d200 120-300, 80-200, 80-400, 17-55 and a flash
I just received a LOWEPRO TREKKER PHOTO AW II, I know it will hold what you have listed. Its more than I wanted but I have two events that I will be riding a trail bike to keep up with the riders and it will hold every thing including a tri pod straped to the out side. And the lenes I plan to purchase. It will make you look like you are on a day trip to the sumit of the closest mountain. But if you are going to carry a lot of gear and do a lot of walking look into it. Quality is is every part.
May be a better choice of words ( I choose a Apature setting to get the in camera setting to a shutter speed closer to what I would like ). I have tried setting shutter speed and letting the camera choose a apature but a lot are under exposed. My method is saving me more time in post prossesing, so it works for me.
Then that means the camera cannot get an aperture large enough given the lighting (it goes full open and still can't get enough light). What you are doing in Av mode and going wide open is telling the camera to select the fastest possible shutter speed.
Then that means the camera cannot get an aperture large enough given the lighting (it goes full open and still can't get enough light).
Yea, Bill's comment was my first guess as well ...
I don't know how Nikon handles this, but, with Canon, if you've specified a Tv (1/500) and an ISO (100) and are allowing the camera to choose the aperture - if the aperture required for a proper exposure is not available, the aperture indicator blinks to let you know that so that you can make the necessary adjustment.
Let's say that you've got your Tv (shutter priority) set to 1/500 and your ISO to 100 and you focus for a shot, but the f2.8 is blinking - it means that you need more light and a wider aperture (let's say the proper aperture would be f2.0 with those settings) and the resulting shot would be underexposed. You would then need to adjust either your Tv or your ISO to bring your exposure in line - but you want to keep your shutter speed at 1/500. Then you have to bump your ISO up to 200 - then your proper exposure would probably be 1/500 at 200 ISO at f3.2 and you wouldn't be underexposed ...
If you bumped your ISO up to 400, then your exposure might read 1/500 at ISO 400 at f4.5 ....
As I said, I don't know how Nikon handles that - your camera manual may come in handy for finding that out.
There are lots of ways to get to a proper exposure .... and it does come down to how comfortable you are with whatever method you use to get to a proper exposure.
It flashes "Lo" or "Hi" when you're venturing off the scale.
Its perhaps worth noting there is a difference in which camera setting you want to use when you are trying to maintain the fastest possible shutter speed versus choosing a particular shutter speed. Through most of this thread I've assumed the latter but it appears that this thread is really about the former. But even when using Av mode to "control" shutter speed (I really think that terminology is misleading, but...) you still need to be aware of the ISO as well.
If I am shooting and my primary concern is having a particular shutter speed I also go for Tv mode. That is what it is there for, after all, to control shutter speed. And if my aperture gets too small or too large for a given situation I change my ISO. I shoot karts and motocross this way, because I want a paritcular shutter speed in order to control how much wheel blur I get. I adjust ISO to keep depth of field under control via its effect on the aperture the camera will choose.
If my primary concern is depth of field I go for Av mode. If my shutter speed gets too far from ideal I adjust the ISO once again.
If I simply want the fastest shutter speed for any given shot I choose Av mode and go wide-open. If the shutter speed is still too low I adjust ISO once again. Stick and ball sports are often shot this way. Football, baseball are often shot in Av mode, wide-open, and ISO is adjusted to keep a minimum shutter speed. Here the exact shutter speed is not important, as long as its "fast enough".
soccer game from last night
i have pics posted of the high school soccer game last night dont know much about soccer i am more of a down set hut guy i think that i am starting to understand this depth of field thing tell me what ya think go to the south point vs clay link www.jasongreen.smugmug.com
Your horizons on many shots are off - people are running uphill, downhill, and all around it seems. But I bet the field is actually pretty flat ... make sure you're shooting level unless you're trying for that "tilted" look.
Shoot tighter - and then crop tighter .... many of those shots are too loosely composed.
Many of your shots are showing an ISO of 800 and some are even showing an ISO of 1600 !!! Why !!! That looks like mid-day sun that you were shooting in - your ISO probably shouldn't have been any higher than 100; 200 at the most. You were also shooting in shutter priority - is there a reason that you were using shutter priority ? Personally, I would have shot in aperture priority using f2.8 or even f4.0 with an ISO of 100 and see what my shutter speed looks like - then I would've adjusted the ISO if I felt that I needed more shutter speed.
You have many backlit or sidelit shots. When in that situation, your camera is likely going to underexpose what you're trying to show - that's why your players' fronts and faces are so dark. In that case, you need to use your camera's exposure compensation dial to intentionally overexpose the shot. Sure, it's going to blow out the backgrounds - but you'll be able to see peoples' faces ...
Just a brief post to comment that this is an excellant thread. My passion is shooting youth sports action and I have found the information in this thread very informative. I hope that this thread continues to grow, the knowledge gained is awesome.
Comments
I just received a LOWEPRO TREKKER PHOTO AW II, I know it will hold what you have listed. Its more than I wanted but I have two events that I will be riding a trail bike to keep up with the riders and it will hold every thing including a tri pod straped to the out side. And the lenes I plan to purchase. It will make you look like you are on a day trip to the sumit of the closest mountain. But if you are going to carry a lot of gear and do a lot of walking look into it. Quality is is every part.
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
Yea, Bill's comment was my first guess as well ...
I don't know how Nikon handles this, but, with Canon, if you've specified a Tv (1/500) and an ISO (100) and are allowing the camera to choose the aperture - if the aperture required for a proper exposure is not available, the aperture indicator blinks to let you know that so that you can make the necessary adjustment.
Let's say that you've got your Tv (shutter priority) set to 1/500 and your ISO to 100 and you focus for a shot, but the f2.8 is blinking - it means that you need more light and a wider aperture (let's say the proper aperture would be f2.0 with those settings) and the resulting shot would be underexposed. You would then need to adjust either your Tv or your ISO to bring your exposure in line - but you want to keep your shutter speed at 1/500. Then you have to bump your ISO up to 200 - then your proper exposure would probably be 1/500 at 200 ISO at f3.2 and you wouldn't be underexposed ...
If you bumped your ISO up to 400, then your exposure might read 1/500 at ISO 400 at f4.5 ....
As I said, I don't know how Nikon handles that - your camera manual may come in handy for finding that out.
There are lots of ways to get to a proper exposure .... and it does come down to how comfortable you are with whatever method you use to get to a proper exposure.
Atlanta, Georgia
Photos at SportsShooter
It flashes "Lo" or "Hi" when you're venturing off the scale.
If I am shooting and my primary concern is having a particular shutter speed I also go for Tv mode. That is what it is there for, after all, to control shutter speed. And if my aperture gets too small or too large for a given situation I change my ISO. I shoot karts and motocross this way, because I want a paritcular shutter speed in order to control how much wheel blur I get. I adjust ISO to keep depth of field under control via its effect on the aperture the camera will choose.
If my primary concern is depth of field I go for Av mode. If my shutter speed gets too far from ideal I adjust the ISO once again.
If I simply want the fastest shutter speed for any given shot I choose Av mode and go wide-open. If the shutter speed is still too low I adjust ISO once again. Stick and ball sports are often shot this way. Football, baseball are often shot in Av mode, wide-open, and ISO is adjusted to keep a minimum shutter speed. Here the exact shutter speed is not important, as long as its "fast enough".
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
i have pics posted of the high school soccer game last night dont know much about soccer i am more of a down set hut guy i think that i am starting to understand this depth of field thing tell me what ya think go to the south point vs clay link www.jasongreen.smugmug.com
OK ....
Couple of things ....
Your horizons on many shots are off - people are running uphill, downhill, and all around it seems. But I bet the field is actually pretty flat ... make sure you're shooting level unless you're trying for that "tilted" look.
Shoot tighter - and then crop tighter .... many of those shots are too loosely composed.
Many of your shots are showing an ISO of 800 and some are even showing an ISO of 1600 !!! Why !!! That looks like mid-day sun that you were shooting in - your ISO probably shouldn't have been any higher than 100; 200 at the most. You were also shooting in shutter priority - is there a reason that you were using shutter priority ? Personally, I would have shot in aperture priority using f2.8 or even f4.0 with an ISO of 100 and see what my shutter speed looks like - then I would've adjusted the ISO if I felt that I needed more shutter speed.
You have many backlit or sidelit shots. When in that situation, your camera is likely going to underexpose what you're trying to show - that's why your players' fronts and faces are so dark. In that case, you need to use your camera's exposure compensation dial to intentionally overexpose the shot. Sure, it's going to blow out the backgrounds - but you'll be able to see peoples' faces ...
Atlanta, Georgia
Photos at SportsShooter
(Pbase supporter) www.pbase.com/eng45ine