my first try at shooting the star

vermentonvermenton Registered Users Posts: 290 Major grins
edited August 31, 2006 in Landscapes
sunday over the Angeles NF

Comments

  • AndymanAndyman Registered Users Posts: 267 Major grins
    edited August 28, 2006
    I love pictures of the stars! I can see Orion.

    I think it could use a little more contrast though. Also, you have some funky noise going on. It looks simliar to a problem someone had awhile ago they posted about, but I can't remember what was said about it. Maybe someone else remembers?
    Nikon D50
    Tamron AF18-200mm F3.5-6.3 XR Di II LD
    Tamron SP AF17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical
    Nikon 60mm f/2.8D AF Micro-Nikkor
    Nikon SB-800 Speedlight
  • ChrisJChrisJ Registered Users Posts: 2,164 Major grins
    edited August 28, 2006
    I really like the rising (?) sun peaking through. Cool effect, I saw something similar when I was in Bryce Canyon last April, but never got a good shot of it.

    It looks like some sort of banding over the long exposure time. If your camera has a noise reduction feature, you may want to try that.

    You may want to try setting a black point in the upper right corner, that might bring out some contrast.

    Cool shot, definitely!
    Chris
  • vermentonvermenton Registered Users Posts: 290 Major grins
    edited August 29, 2006
    ChrisJ wrote:
    I really like the rising (?) sun peaking through. Cool effect, I saw something similar when I was in Bryce Canyon last April, but never got a good shot of it.

    It looks like some sort of banding over the long exposure time. If your camera has a noise reduction feature, you may want to try that.

    You may want to try setting a black point in the upper right corner, that might bring out some contrast.

    Cool shot, definitely!

    which one is Orion? thank you for your coments. I guess the bending is the lens I was shooting at 11 ( tamron 11-18) . I will try again this weekend
  • vermentonvermenton Registered Users Posts: 290 Major grins
    edited August 30, 2006
    vermenton wrote:
    which one is Orion? thank you for your coments. I guess the bending is the lens I was shooting at 11 ( tamron 11-18) . I will try again this weekend[/quotemy

    My canon 10D does not have noise reduction function, do any one have a solution to this problem? let me know thank you
  • ForeheadForehead Registered Users Posts: 679 Major grins
    edited August 30, 2006
    Orion the Hunter is just above center. Here's another shot to help you recognize it better (the laser's pointing right at the belt he's wearing):
    Steve-o
  • vermentonvermenton Registered Users Posts: 290 Major grins
    edited August 30, 2006
    Forehead wrote:
    Orion the Hunter is just above center. Here's another shot to help you recognize it better (the laser's pointing right at the belt he's wearing):

    thank you
  • SloYerRollSloYerRoll Registered Users Posts: 2,788 Major grins
    edited August 30, 2006
    Forehead wrote:
    Orion the Hunter is just above center. Here's another shot to help you recognize it better (the laser's pointing right at the belt he's wearing):
    Be Careful w/ that laser Steve-O. THe FAA might come looking for you!
  • ForeheadForehead Registered Users Posts: 679 Major grins
    edited August 30, 2006
    I try to be sure that no high-flying aircraft are around, and hope that any UFOs don't lodge any complaints either! :uhoh
    SloYerRoll wrote:
    Be Careful w/ that laser Steve-O. THe FAA might come looking for you!
    Steve-o
  • mmrodenmmroden Registered Users Posts: 472 Major grins
    edited August 30, 2006
    I like that shot; I tried to do similar things recently, and it just didn't work so well.

    I also recommend the denoising everyone else has recommended. A poor-mans way to do that is to:
    0) shoot in raw. jpg compression could really wang this.
    1) take your exposure. If it's a bulb exposure, make sure to time it properly.
    2) take a blank exposure right afterwards. Yes, you burn a frame, but space is cheap these days.
    3) read them into photoshop, but not adjusted by camera raw. Instead, just set everything to default settings. you can modify everything after doing this trick. Keep it as 16 bit.
    4) copy the entire 'star' frame (taken in step 1) onto the blank frame (taken in step 2). This should be another layer on top of one another.
    5) change the channel blending to 'difference'.
    6) Noise should disappear (I might have the layers backwards in step 4; you may want to swap them).
    7) merge visible layers, and then mess with colors and so forth.

    Hope that works for you; I only guess, I haven't tried it myself.
  • vermentonvermenton Registered Users Posts: 290 Major grins
    edited August 30, 2006
    mmroden wrote:
    I like that shot; I tried to do similar things recently, and it just didn't work so well.

    I also recommend the denoising everyone else has recommended. A poor-mans way to do that is to:
    0) shoot in raw. jpg compression could really wang this.
    1) take your exposure. If it's a bulb exposure, make sure to time it properly.
    2) take a blank exposure right afterwards. Yes, you burn a frame, but space is cheap these days.
    3) read them into photoshop, but not adjusted by camera raw. Instead, just set everything to default settings. you can modify everything after doing this trick. Keep it as 16 bit.
    4) copy the entire 'star' frame (taken in step 1) onto the blank frame (taken in step 2). This should be another layer on top of one another.
    5) change the channel blending to 'difference'.
    6) Noise should disappear (I might have the layers backwards in step 4; you may want to swap them).
    7) merge visible layers, and then mess with colors and so forth.

    Hope that works for you; I only guess, I haven't tried it myself.

    thank you for the recomdation. I'm going to shoot at night again this weekend over the Angeles crest nf
  • mmrodenmmroden Registered Users Posts: 472 Major grins
    edited August 31, 2006
    np. I forgot to mention, the two frames need to be the exact same length of time.

    Noise comes from many things in CCD's, not least is temperature. The longer the exposure time, the more noise can be generated (as you see in your image). So, the blank frame (with a lens cap on or something similar) should be the same amount of time, to let the same amount of noise build up, and right afterwards, so that the camera is roughly at the same temperature as when you shot the first frame.

    Also, be wary of running out of battery life. I think the d70 can take 30 minutes of continuous exposure before it dies; it may be more than that. it does sometimes hurt to try a 25 minute shot, only to have the camera die on minute 21 or something.
Sign In or Register to comment.