Workign with RAW files - Exif-jpeg and Exif-Tiff question
harjtt
Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
I took a few pics in RAw for the first time today with my new Oly E1 and using the supplied Olympus Viewer 1.51 software I can save the files as exif-jpeg, jpeg, RAW, exif-tiff, etc but when I save a file I'm finding all the EXIF information being stripped from the file. Does any one have any idea why this would happen as its a wee bit annoying ?
Cheers
:thumb:D
HarjTT
Cheers
:thumb:D
HarjTT
0
Comments
In Photoshop to keep the EXIF we must save as jpg and not save for the web.
Save for the web erases the EXIF.
Save As doesn't.
Hope to be of some use.
Malte
Saving a file as a 16-bit TIFF in the Olympus apps strips the EXIF. Since the Olympus applications do give the best color rendition for your .ORF files, these are your options:
1) live a life without EXIF info (and without the advantages of that!)
2) convert to JPEGs (and without the advantages/headroom of 16-bit files)
3) convert to 8-bit TIFF (EXIF-Tiff in Viewer)(see above)
4) convert to TIFF, and use an application like ExifTool or Exifer to sync the EXIF from the .ORF file to your newly created TIFF file (it does cost time, but you can batch this if necessary; see this thread on FourThirdsPhoto.com discussing that option for DNG files, but it's similar for TIFF files)
5) use a different RAW developer, like ACR (Adobe Camera Raw, comes with Photoshop (Elements) (I personally don't care for the colors it gives me with my .ORFs) or (my solution) Silkypix (very good color, very good controls, but a learning curve, especially since the English app has some translation errors; a trial version is available for download).
Wow,
Oly really dropped the ball on that one.
That's a real shame.
A little side note about RAW files. I have found no need for them as long as you get the right white levels for a shot.
Please note that you can always add light in post production. Once an image is "washed out" though. It is almost impossible to recover.
So when in doubt and shooting jpeg. Underexpose by 1 stop and you will be much safer.
You can always script an action to fix all your shots lickety split if you have the right software.
-Jon
As for the Olympus software: yeah, it really is a pain. Next to this, it's also dog slow. I do know that a new version of Studio, 2.0, is in the works, but if/when it will be released and if it will fix issues like this is not known to me.
It's not that bad an issue though. The RAW developer of my choice, Silkypix, gives good colors and if the price is an issue it is also available in a limited free version. I also really like the results the Adobe Lightroom Beta 3 is giving me with my E-1 .ORF files, but that beta is also really slow on my pretty recent PC with good enough specs. The results are different (and better) than the ACR results from PS CS2. If the released version will have dealt with the speed issues, that might very well become my favorite catalogue/RAW developer application.
How do you manage to get ACR files with CS2? I can't with CS5
ACR is not a RAW file. ACR stands for Adobe Camera Raw, which is a RAW processor that comes with Photoshop.
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
Another option is Phase One's Capture One Pro 7. It supports over 250 different RAW formats, and the Oly E1's ORF format is one of them. Granted it's a bit pricey, but I find that it does a better job of correcting white balance, especially for skin tones. It is also very good at recovering blown out highlights, and getting back details in the blacks. If this is something you'd like to look into further go to: http://www.phaseone.com/en/Imaging-Software/Capture-One-Pro-7.aspx
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams