Workign with RAW files - Exif-jpeg and Exif-Tiff question

harjttharjtt Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
edited August 9, 2014 in Finishing School
I took a few pics in RAw for the first time today with my new Oly E1 and using the supplied Olympus Viewer 1.51 software I can save the files as exif-jpeg, jpeg, RAW, exif-tiff, etc but when I save a file I'm finding all the EXIF information being stripped from the file. Does any one have any idea why this would happen as its a wee bit annoying ?

Cheers

:thumb:D

HarjTT

Comments

  • Antonio CorreiaAntonio Correia Registered Users Posts: 6,241 Major grins
    edited September 15, 2006
    What I know:
    In Photoshop to keep the EXIF we must save as jpg and not save for the web.
    Save for the web erases the EXIF.
    Save As doesn't.
    Hope to be of some use.
    thumb.gif
    All the best ! ... António Correia - Facebook
  • MalteMalte Registered Users Posts: 1,181 Major grins
    edited September 15, 2006
    I noticed you mention both exif-jpeg and jpeg as options in your software, do both of them strip the exif? I don't have a non-exif option myself.

    Malte
  • marlofmarlof Registered Users Posts: 1,833 Major grins
    edited September 15, 2006
    First of all, congratulations on your new E-1. It's been well over a year with mine, and I still like it. A Lot! But alas, I also have to welcome you to the wonderful world of shitty Olympus programming. If I save as EXIF-JPEG (the other option, JPEG, purposely strips the EXIF) or as EXIF-TIFF (8-bit) my EXIF is saved, so I guess you're trying to put out a 16-bit file.

    Saving a file as a 16-bit TIFF in the Olympus apps strips the EXIF. Since the Olympus applications do give the best color rendition for your .ORF files, these are your options:

    1) live a life without EXIF info (and without the advantages of that!)
    2) convert to JPEGs (and without the advantages/headroom of 16-bit files)
    3) convert to 8-bit TIFF (EXIF-Tiff in Viewer)(see above)
    4) convert to TIFF, and use an application like ExifTool or Exifer to sync the EXIF from the .ORF file to your newly created TIFF file (it does cost time, but you can batch this if necessary; see this thread on FourThirdsPhoto.com discussing that option for DNG files, but it's similar for TIFF files)
    5) use a different RAW developer, like ACR (Adobe Camera Raw, comes with Photoshop (Elements) (I personally don't care for the colors it gives me with my .ORFs) or (my solution) Silkypix (very good color, very good controls, but a learning curve, especially since the English app has some translation errors; a trial version is available for download).
    enjoy being here while getting there
  • SloYerRollSloYerRoll Registered Users Posts: 2,788 Major grins
    edited September 16, 2006
    marlof wrote:
    First of all, congratulations on your new E-1. It's been well over a year with mine, and I still like it. A Lot! But alas, I also have to welcome you to the wonderful world of shitty Olympus programming. If I save as EXIF-JPEG (the other option, JPEG, purposely strips the EXIF) or as EXIF-TIFF (8-bit) my EXIF is saved, so I guess you're trying to put out a 16-bit file.

    Saving a file as a 16-bit TIFF in the Olympus apps strips the EXIF. Since the Olympus applications do give the best color rendition for your .ORF files, these are your options:

    1) live a life without EXIF info (and without the advantages of that!)
    2) convert to JPEGs (and without the advantages/headroom of 16-bit files)
    3) convert to 8-bit TIFF (EXIF-Tiff in Viewer)(see above)
    4) convert to TIFF, and use an application like ExifTool or Exifer to sync the EXIF from the .ORF file to your newly created TIFF file (it does cost time, but you can batch this if necessary; see this thread on FourThirdsPhoto.com discussing that option for DNG files, but it's similar for TIFF files)
    5) use a different RAW developer, like ACR (Adobe Camera Raw, comes with Photoshop (Elements) (I personally don't care for the colors it gives me with my .ORFs) or (my solution) Silkypix (very good color, very good controls, but a learning curve, especially since the English app has some translation errors; a trial version is available for download).

    Wow,

    Oly really dropped the ball on that one.
    That's a real shame.
    A little side note about RAW files. I have found no need for them as long as you get the right white levels for a shot.
    Please note that you can always add light in post production. Once an image is "washed out" though. It is almost impossible to recover.
    So when in doubt and shooting jpeg. Underexpose by 1 stop and you will be much safer.
    You can always script an action to fix all your shots lickety split if you have the right software.

    -Jon
  • marlofmarlof Registered Users Posts: 1,833 Major grins
    edited September 16, 2006
    The E-1 already underexposed a bit (in general thought to be about 1/3 EV), apparantly to protect the highlights from blowing out.

    As for the Olympus software: yeah, it really is a pain. Next to this, it's also dog slow. I do know that a new version of Studio, 2.0, is in the works, but if/when it will be released and if it will fix issues like this is not known to me.

    It's not that bad an issue though. The RAW developer of my choice, Silkypix, gives good colors and if the price is an issue it is also available in a limited free version. I also really like the results the Adobe Lightroom Beta 3 is giving me with my E-1 .ORF files, but that beta is also really slow on my pretty recent PC with good enough specs. The results are different (and better) than the ACR results from PS CS2. If the released version will have dealt with the speed issues, that might very well become my favorite catalogue/RAW developer application.
    enjoy being here while getting there
  • JannikJannik Registered Users Posts: 1 Beginner grinner
    edited August 8, 2014
    marlof wrote: »
    The E-1 already underexposed a bit (in general thought to be about 1/3 EV), apparantly to protect the highlights from blowing out.

    As for the Olympus software: yeah, it really is a pain. Next to this, it's also dog slow. I do know that a new version of Studio, 2.0, is in the works, but if/when it will be released and if it will fix issues like this is not known to me.

    It's not that bad an issue though. The RAW developer of my choice, Silkypix, gives good colors and if the price is an issue it is also available in a limited free version. I also really like the results the Adobe Lightroom Beta 3 is giving me with my E-1 .ORF files, but that beta is also really slow on my pretty recent PC with good enough specs. The results are different (and better) than the ACR results from PS CS2. If the released version will have dealt with the speed issues, that might very well become my favorite catalogue/RAW developer application.

    How do you manage to get ACR files with CS2? I can't with CS5
  • Gary752Gary752 Registered Users Posts: 934 Major grins
    edited August 9, 2014
    Jannik wrote: »
    How do you manage to get ACR files with CS2? I can't with CS5

    ACR is not a RAW file. ACR stands for Adobe Camera Raw, which is a RAW processor that comes with Photoshop.

    GaryB
    GaryB
    “The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
  • Gary752Gary752 Registered Users Posts: 934 Major grins
    edited August 9, 2014
    marlof wrote: »
    First of all, congratulations on your new E-1. It's been well over a year with mine, and I still like it. A Lot! But alas, I also have to welcome you to the wonderful world of shitty Olympus programming. If I save as EXIF-JPEG (the other option, JPEG, purposely strips the EXIF) or as EXIF-TIFF (8-bit) my EXIF is saved, so I guess you're trying to put out a 16-bit file.

    Saving a file as a 16-bit TIFF in the Olympus apps strips the EXIF. Since the Olympus applications do give the best color rendition for your .ORF files, these are your options:

    1) live a life without EXIF info (and without the advantages of that!)
    2) convert to JPEGs (and without the advantages/headroom of 16-bit files)
    3) convert to 8-bit TIFF (EXIF-Tiff in Viewer)(see above)
    4) convert to TIFF, and use an application like ExifTool or Exifer to sync the EXIF from the .ORF file to your newly created TIFF file (it does cost time, but you can batch this if necessary; see this thread on FourThirdsPhoto.com discussing that option for DNG files, but it's similar for TIFF files)
    5) use a different RAW developer, like ACR (Adobe Camera Raw, comes with Photoshop (Elements) (I personally don't care for the colors it gives me with my .ORFs) or (my solution) Silkypix (very good color, very good controls, but a learning curve, especially since the English app has some translation errors; a trial version is available for download).

    Another option is Phase One's Capture One Pro 7. It supports over 250 different RAW formats, and the Oly E1's ORF format is one of them. Granted it's a bit pricey, but I find that it does a better job of correcting white balance, especially for skin tones. It is also very good at recovering blown out highlights, and getting back details in the blacks. If this is something you'd like to look into further go to: http://www.phaseone.com/en/Imaging-Software/Capture-One-Pro-7.aspx

    GaryB
    GaryB
    “The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
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