Slower Shutter Speed?
This is taken from an article I read about flash photography. The problem is a large room with a dark background even when a flash is used. You want the background to be brighter w\o blowing out the foreground subjects.
His solution was to lower the shutter speed to 1\8th or even 1\4th @ f4. He goes on to say that the slow shutter speed will still make the subject sharp. How is that possible? I'm not understanding his point. With a 50mm lens pointing at a statue, I can barely hold it at 1\50th wiithout some blurring.
What ISO do you think he uses? Or does that even matter?
His solution was to lower the shutter speed to 1\8th or even 1\4th @ f4. He goes on to say that the slow shutter speed will still make the subject sharp. How is that possible? I'm not understanding his point. With a 50mm lens pointing at a statue, I can barely hold it at 1\50th wiithout some blurring.
What ISO do you think he uses? Or does that even matter?
Cason
www.casongarner.com
5D MkII | 30D | 50mm f1.8 II | 85mm f1.8 | 24-70mm f2.8L | 70-200mm f2.8L IS II | Manfrotto 3021BPRO with 322RC2
www.casongarner.com
5D MkII | 30D | 50mm f1.8 II | 85mm f1.8 | 24-70mm f2.8L | 70-200mm f2.8L IS II | Manfrotto 3021BPRO with 322RC2
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Comments
The shutter speed then limits ( sets) the exposure for the background
( unless the shutter speed is much faster than the flash which does not happen with a normal focal plane shutter)
I make use of this when shooting with a macro lens - I can illuminate a butterfly or a spider with the flash in high speed synch in manual mode, and by using a fast shutter speed - say 1/500 or better, I can drive the background to black and eliminate the cluttered background seen in macro shooting in a garden environment.
For example f8 Manual Mode 1/125th sec - I probably should have used 1/250th for a darker background
By using a very long shutter speed - say 5 seconds, the background might go very bright but a butterfly won't hold still that long. It is all about balancing the exposure of the forground and the background, using flash for one and natural light for the other.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
A good reference for this can be found here
http://www.planetneil.com/faq/dragging-the-shutter.html
Monte
You can think of a shot taken with a flash as really two images overlayed in one picture: one taken with just the flash and a very fast shutter speed, the other taken with ambient light and a slower shutter speed. It is a common practice in flash photography to try to balance the brightness of the ambient image with the flash image. You can get many different effects by controlling the relative brightness of each part.
Since the flash image is taken with an extremely fast effective shutter speed, it will never be motion blurred. Only the ambient image has a long enough exposure time to blur. In most common flash setups the flash is much closer to the subject than it is to the background which means is it much brighter on the subect. If you expose with flash a stop or two brighter than the amibent on the subject, the motion blur of the subject will not be very noticable because the flash image will be so much brigher and it will be sharp. However, in the background where the ambient is brighter than the flash, motion blur will be much more pronounced.
Duration of light output varies. It can be very short or up to say 1/200 of a second. The brighter the flash, then longer the output lasts, so if you want a very short flash duration, say short enough to freeze very rapid movement, then you need to set up the shot to allow for a smaller amount of flash output. Some good ways to do this are by using more than one flash and having them synched together and by having the flash(s) very close to the subject -- esp. good for small subjects. There are also special high output strobes ($$$) that reach their peak output faster than most units, but you also have to look at their output decay curves too, in order to determine their usefulness for a given application.
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www.casongarner.com
5D MkII | 30D | 50mm f1.8 II | 85mm f1.8 | 24-70mm f2.8L | 70-200mm f2.8L IS II | Manfrotto 3021BPRO with 322RC2