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Barefoot and Natural
Registered Users Posts: 586 Major grins
Okay....
I am going to try shooting some shots in RAW, just so I understand was this means for me, this is the jist:
1. RAW image is not a jpeg... right?
2. I still set custom settings on my camera...... right?
3. A RAW image gives me more chances to fix a "somewhat messed up shot"
4. I edit the RAW image and then save it as a jpeg?
This is once again going to be tested on my children and see if I can properly edit a picture. I have never shot in RAW mode before and so the setting on my camera should be "RAW" or RAW+L (I have a Rebel XT and it gives me both choices but the amount of shots I can take on my 1 gb card is dramatic from 74 RAW+L or 106 RAW) I am assuming that the RAW+L means it will save the shot both as RAW and a jpeg (right?)
Okay....thanks for your help on this.....I just love trying new things!!
Heather
I am going to try shooting some shots in RAW, just so I understand was this means for me, this is the jist:
1. RAW image is not a jpeg... right?
2. I still set custom settings on my camera...... right?
3. A RAW image gives me more chances to fix a "somewhat messed up shot"
4. I edit the RAW image and then save it as a jpeg?
This is once again going to be tested on my children and see if I can properly edit a picture. I have never shot in RAW mode before and so the setting on my camera should be "RAW" or RAW+L (I have a Rebel XT and it gives me both choices but the amount of shots I can take on my 1 gb card is dramatic from 74 RAW+L or 106 RAW) I am assuming that the RAW+L means it will save the shot both as RAW and a jpeg (right?)
Okay....thanks for your help on this.....I just love trying new things!!
Heather
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Hope this has been a little help at least.
Yes and no. This can be confusing.
With Raw, the most important camera settings are focus, aperture, and shutter speed because it is impossible to change them later. (I guess you could add image stabilization to that.) Just about everything else can be changed in your Raw converter. For example, your camera has Sharpness and Saturation settings. Those usually affect JPEGs but not Raw. It's good to get white balance right during the shot but you can also freely change that in Raw.
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
There are two primary reasons I exclusively shoot raw:
White Balance: Canon's auto white balance is not all that hot and misses often. Shooting raw lets me defer the white balance decision to later and gives me one less thing to worry about when taking the picture. Often I take one shot of an 18% grey card to start off as a reference point for white balance.
Dynamic Range: Raw has somewhat greater dynamic range than JPEG so with a raw file I have more latitude to adjust if I missed the exposure a little bit.
I don't know .....I have software that came wit my camera
I have Corel Paint Shop Pro (?) I don't know if that supports RAW files
I also have Adobe Elements 5 (?) not sure on this one either
I guess that would be a HUGE factor for me.....
Yes....thank you very much!
I have also been looking into the Transcend cards after reading a couple of your posts....you are totally sold on them huh?
Thank you for this link!!
If I can do it right.......no more finger nails......total stress......agh!!!
I would expect you got Digital Photo Professional in the package with your camera; that is the official Canon sanctioned way of converting raw to JPEG. Otherwise, while it is in beta, Adobe Lightroom is free and supports raw files. Personally I use Lightroom because it gives me a faster workflow, but there are some picky technical reasons why the Canon software might be somewhat better.
http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/lightroom/
I looked at this link....very cool....dumb question, can I even download that? I don't have Mac
There is a Windows version. Beta 4 for Windows had some serious problems, but 4.1 is better. When they release the final version, Adobe will start charging (an, as of yet, unspecified price) for it, so be prepared if you get too dependant on it.
If their INdustrial Cards [-40°F to 185°F ] were at a faster Speed than 45X, i would be sold...but it seems right now that San Disks Extremes [ -13º F to 185º F ] are the best for what I truly want and that is cards that usable below Zero Degrees F....as I love to be out in the COLD shooting wildlife...but yes i really like the one I have...but I do need to get a recovery software that will recover Raw files as
raw and the one that transcend sent me recovers them only as small ...very small jpgs....I am going to try my lexar software this weekend to see if it works or not.
I have not tried to capture really fast sports on it yet...however maybe sunday if the RC boats are running at the local lake I will see how it does then.
Elements 5 does read raw files....buuuut......
Convert raw files to Digital Negative
Enjoy a lifetime of access to your raw files by converting them to universal DNG format, which means you’ll be able to open and use your highest quality photo files without worrying about proprietary camera formats.
Adobe Elements 5 feature page link
(Make sure and scroll down to the free version)
That is what I started with. The only drawback is that the resulting TIFF file is only 8 bit. Of course, if you are use to dealing with jpeg, that's not a problem. I always felt that I got better results with it than DPP (the Canon software).
We never know how something we say, do, or think today, will effect the lives of millions tomorrow....BJ Palmer
I think your best bet is dig out the DPP CD and load that up. Use it while playing with RAW and worry about all the 3rd party converters after you decide to stick with RAW. Then you can get trial versions of everything and choose the one that suits you best; each app has a different take on how to convert the data and has a different end result.
In general you just need to make sure the exposure is right in RAW. Getting WB close helps. Custom functions in general no longer have any meaning--though AFAIK the Canon converter does read that data & take it into account for a baseline.
http://www.chrislaudermilkphoto.com/
Unfortunately, what Chris says is true...RSE has been assimilated. Too bad. It's very powerful and has a great user interface. Sorting and culling pics is a breeze with it. I plan to simply keep using it until I get a more powerful computer, then check out the options again.
PSE5 would be a really good starting point for working with your raw files. Not only does the very nice organizer display raw files, PSE comes with a good raw converter. I've got both PSE4 and Photoshop CS2 with Bridge and I still prefer the PSE organizer over Bridge for organizational functions.
I did not realize all the "other things" that I would need to take into consideration.
It is very intimidating, but I WILL TRY!!
One more question......excuse me if it sounds dumb but.....
how do you judge your before/after edits?
Do you automatically save the image without any post-editing and then do all your editing to see the difference?
I am only asking because I have never "seen" what a RAW image looks like. But I will soon enough and may answer my own question
Thanks again to everyone for the advice and the helpful answers.
Heather