Help with vivid The Colors!!
Manfr3d
Registered Users Posts: 2,008 Major grins
Howdy!
I've been shooting with my Canon 10D the last
10k frames. One day I also had a borowed
Pentax isDS in my bag with me. Turns out that
all my Canon pics are colorwise flat compared
to the ones I made with the Pentax. I never
noticed this until I saw the pictures side by
side.
How can I get them colors as vivid as with
the Pentax? Do I have to do sth with ICC
Profiles? Bumping up the saturation doesnt
seem to give me the desired results. Is
there a way out or is it simply the limitation
of the CMOS sensor of the Canon?!
/me is confused
I've been shooting with my Canon 10D the last
10k frames. One day I also had a borowed
Pentax isDS in my bag with me. Turns out that
all my Canon pics are colorwise flat compared
to the ones I made with the Pentax. I never
noticed this until I saw the pictures side by
side.
How can I get them colors as vivid as with
the Pentax? Do I have to do sth with ICC
Profiles? Bumping up the saturation doesnt
seem to give me the desired results. Is
there a way out or is it simply the limitation
of the CMOS sensor of the Canon?!
/me is confused
“To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
― Edward Weston
― Edward Weston
0
Comments
www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=18308
Look through the Set Up settings and you can make the saturation much higher.
If you shoot RAW, the color saturation is what you set in the RAW converter.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
― Edward Weston
Exposure brings the look and feel of film to digital photography. Simulate the warmth and softness of real world film, both color and black and white. Reproduce realistic film grain, and simplify your digital photography workflow.
You can now digitally simulate the vivid colors of Velvia(r), the rich blacks of Kodachrome(r), the sensitivity of Ektachrome(r), and the characteristics of dozens of other film stocks. Exposure also models the size, shape, and color of real world film grain. Use this level of subtle reproduction to simulate the distinct looks of films such as Ilford(r) 3200 Delta and long discontinued Ektachrome EES and GAF(r) 500.
Exposure simplifies your workflow, collecting color, dynamic range, softness, and grain controls in one plug-in. Correct a colorcast, soften a digital portrait, and tweak contrast with one, easy-to-use tool. Or define your signature look and save it as a one-click effect.
Hope this info helps.
Were both pics the same format? (raw vs. raw OR jpg vs. jpg)
What program did you use to compare the pictures?
There are a number of variables as to why the Canon pics seem less saturated than the Pentax. You can rule out your sensor limitation theory since the 10d is very capable of capturing stunning pictures.
Try shooting some JPEG files instead of RAW with your 10D, if the pictures have better saturation and contrast, then you need to look into your RAW processing techniques.
Nikos
If you cannot get enough saturation with RAW conversion, then increasing saturation in PS can get more, but I do not understand why you feel you don't get enough saturation with the 10D compared to the Pentax camera - What color space are you importing the files into PS?? What is the color space in your 10D set up for??
I shot with a 10D for several years and never felt its color was inferior to a 1DMkll or a 5D. I have numerous images at pathfinder.smugmug.com that I shot with a 10D.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
inside RawShooter. The cameras are set to AdobeRGB
color space. In RawShooter the working space is the
same. From there I export to jpeg, and am fine with it
(until santa sends a 24" dell, and a spyder2). The calibration
I have is a manual one (done with reference card and
software) and should be within a certain limit. (!?)
After some testing I now found out that I can get nice
colors with the Canon in jpeg mode, with parameters for
saturation and contrast almost at maximum (like nikos
said). So the error is defenitly somewhere in my workflow.
But do I really need to apply curve correction manualy
to all my images from now on if I want to stick with RAW?
According to the Manual, RawShooter uses "build in" Camera
Profiles. If I could change that Profile, woudn't I get my
colors correct? On the other hand, why would RawShooter
put in a flat-color profile for the 10D?
Still, you've already helped me alot guys!
― Edward Weston
My typical workflow is to use the tools in ACR in the same order that they're laid out on the screen. Adobe intended us to use them that way.
So with that in mind, first thing on the list is to set the white balance if it's off. Unfortunately, under most conditions where the lighting isn't in a controlled environment, Canons are not that great nailing the correct WB
Next is to examing the histogram and correctly adust exposure (right of the histogram), shadows (left of the histogram) and the brightness (gamma) of the image.
Those are the most important parameters. As for the contrast and saturation, you can make your final adjustments in your RAW program or output a copy of the image into Photoshop to make additional and much more radical changes to the photos.
It would also help if you could show us an example (screenshot) of the comparison and, if possible, the histogram of the Canon file.
HTH,
Nikos