Review: Katz Eye Optics Focusing Screen for the 20D/30D

Shay Stephens

I ordered the Canon 20D split-prism focus screen with 8x10 crop marks from:
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/

and it just showed up today.


I downloaded the installation instructions here:
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/files/20D.PDF (the url is case sensitive)

And then sat down and started reading and understanding them.


When I felt I was ready, I dove in. The tools I used were a small jewelers screwdriver, but this could be anything sufficiently long and thin to unlatch the retainer spring. I used a pair of tweezers too, and the blower bulb helped keep things dust free.

The focus screen is in a small plastic case inside the pink bubble wrap. And I am storing my old focus screen there now.

The operation of replacing the screen is very simple, and you need not force anything. The screen, once the retainer spring is removed, just drops right out and drops right back in again. The trickiest part is getting the retainer spring out. The instructions show you where it is located, but I had to use an inspection mirror to know what I was really looking for. Once I saw the clip, it was a piece of cake to pull it out according to the instructions:




There is a little metal shim that is supposed to stay in place, but mine fell out (the brass looking part above the old focus screen).


The instructions deal with putting it back in and I found no difficulty in doing so. Again this basically just drops in with no force applied.

Once that was back in I went to install the screen itself. Same deal here, just drop in in the right spot. No force. But I put it in upside down. The correct direction is for the raised prism part to be facing the eyepiece and the smooth side to face the mirror. Once in place I then put the retainer spring back on. Make sure it is seated in the original position. If you don't snap it back in place fully, the screen will be slightly out of focus. So make sure it is fully seated as to the instructions.

On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I give it a 3 so long as you read and understand the instructions before beginning. You are dealing with small-ish and fragile parts, so you need to be gentle and have a semi-steady hand. There is also another guide out which I did not use, but it might help someone by bringing a second view to the procedure:
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/files/KERR-20D.PDF

And now, the results...WOW. Not only does it make it easier to manual focus, or in my case, make it possible at all (I could never manual focus accurately before). But what surprised me more was that even my auto-focus is better, not because the auto-focus actually works any better, but now I can see when it is not quite spot on. It is much easier to see when the image is not critically sharp now. So I expect my consistency in achieving focus will go way up. For me, this gem of a tool is going to help take the guess work out of my focusing.

I don't use the camera metering, so can't really speak to any changes the screen may or may not make in that regard.

Now I also had the 8x10 crop marks installed. And they don't appear to be critically accurate. If you scale an 8x10 to 16x20, the crop marks on the screen would be closer to 16x21, not terrible, but I am going to have to mentally allow a tad bit of room on the inside so details won't be cut out when the image is cropped to 8x10, but the nice thing is that I now have a definite reference to go by. Again, taking the guesswork out of the composition. If anything could be improved in the focus screen it would be the accuracy of the crop marks, I would rather have it too conservative a crop rather than to liberal and risk loosing image details. I don't know about the accuracy of the other types they offer, I only got the 8x10. But I am still glad I have them there. When I order a second screen, I will again get the 8x10 marks installed.

The cameras focus points still light up and are visible just like normal, that is controlled separately from the focus screen.

I don't find the new screen details distracting, and when I was first testing it, I forgot I had the 8x10 crop marks and had to go back and try again to specifically notice and use them. The split prism area extends past the center focus point, so you can get a clear area if you need one. The micro-prism ring area scintillates when out of focus, and I find it a wonderful combo with the split prism. I am very happy with this screen. Alongside my light meter, and my pocket wizards, this was one of the best purchases I have made for the camera.

claudermilk

Good review. I found the same when I installed mine. One thing I'd like to add (and I think they have in the instructions): when doing my install I cut a piece of paper to lay over the mirror. Just a small bit of extra insurance from damage there. Also, it took a couple of tries to get things centered properly, no biggie.

On the 20D I have seen no effect on metering. On the Rebel bodies, apparently the meter is in a different place, behind the focus screen, and is 1/3 stop off after installation (I think over, check the Katz Eye site for correct info).

dancorder

Thanks for the review , I've been thinking about getting one of these (I can't tell what's in focus manually either). Nice to see that they work as advertised.

DavidTO

Pending your approval, Mr. Stephens, I'll be adding this to our tutorials. 'Sallright?

Scott_Quier

Thanks for the review Shay. I've been holding off on these, trying to make up my mind. Your willingness to share your information () has allowed me to make that decision - I'm going to pull the trigger for two, 30D and 20D!

Shay Stephens

DavidTO wrote:

Pending your approval, Mr. Stephens, I'll be adding this to our tutorials. 'Sallright?

Ain't no thang

schmoo

Thanks for the review! I love the critical photo of the User studying the instructions.

Shay Stephens

schmooo wrote:

Thanks for the review! I love the critical photo of the User studying the instructions.

hehehe, yes, I thought that was important. Don't want people flying in and harming the camera because they didn't take the time to know what they were doing :-)

Nikolai

Shay,
Great post, thanks a lot!

ziggy53

Shay,

Did you consider the OptiBrite treatment?

(P.S. Nice cap you are wearing!)

ziggy53

Shay Stephens

ziggy53 wrote:

Shay,

Did you consider the OptiBrite treatment?

(P.S. Nice cap you are wearing!)

ziggy53

I thought about it, but I didn't really see the need personally. If I was using a camera with a dark viewfinder I might have done different. I don't know, maybe I just need more convincing that it would benefit me.

That's my on-location hat. When you try to meet someone, it helps to have a sign saying "I'm the one your looking for" hehehe.

DavidTO

The review is LIVE on our reviews site.

Shay!

TOF guy

Instructions for a Nikon D200
Thank you, Shay, for the instructions.

I've posted a set of instructions not long ago on another forum. The installation is for a Nikon D200, therefore I've thought that it may complement your post to reproduce my instruction set here (amusingly, but not surprisingly, it doesn't seem to be that different no matter the make of the camera ... ). These instructions have no picture support and as such do not replace the instructions that come with the screen. But they give you an idea of what you're up to should you decide to decline Katz's offer to install the screen for you to save some $$$.

------------------------------------------------------------------

I want to emphasize the risks first:

Several things can go wrong (listed further). In which case, the warranty will be totally voided (do not hope that the Nikon technicians at the service center won't immediately understand what has happened, they've been there before). The repair is at your charge. Worse, Nikon repair services refuse to fix a camera at all if its technicians feel that the camera cannot be brought back to normal operation. In other words if they feel the damage is too serious, they won't fix it: >>> you've lost your D200 <<< Finally Nikon or other repair center may be willing to install that focusing screen for you at a nominal charge (can't be too expensive, as it takes little time for a trained technician to do it).
Let's talk about what can go wrong. Put camera on its back, so that the bottom part is facing you. Remove the lens. At least three things that I can think of are problematic:
- scratching the mirror: that's the mirror that is at the bottom of the opening where the lens attaches. The scratches will be visible in the viewfinder. Worse they will affect focus and metering and makes the camera inoperable.
- scratching the top mirror (pentaprism). Again view in the viewfinder is affected, and metering is compromised.
- breaking the latch that holds the retaining wire. Thom Hogan has reported one person who's broken it. So it's doable.

Assuming that you want to proceed, reading the instructions that comes with the mirror through before doing anything is highly recommended. <img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/6029383/emoji/deal.gif" border="0" alt="" >

I recommend wearing thin latex gloves to prevent fingerprints. You need a small screwdriver such as those used to repair watches, lens cleaning set (ped pad, etc), a pair of tweezers. A giotto rocket or similar blower.

- Before doing anything, check the new focusing screen for dirt with a magnifying glass (you may not see the dirt with naked eyes but you'll see it through the magnifiying pentaprism of the viewfinder). Clean it up in advance if needed. Why? There is nothing more frustrating than going through the whole procedure and then realize that you have to remove the screen again to clean it and go through the whole procedure just for that reason. Being there ...

- Cut a piece of lens cleaning cloth to make a piece slightly larger than the main mirror. Put it on top of the mirror to protect it (a little).

- Look at the pentaprism. You'll see a notch in the top part, close to the lens mount (camera oriented with bottom towards you, as before). The notch is not exactly centered in the middle of the plastic frame but slightly to the right (that's the viewer's right - yours - of course). Look closely and you'll see the retaining wire.

- Bring the tip of the screwdriver under the wire. Apply gentle pressure to lift the wire up (in other words, parallel to the focusing mirror and up). The wire will unlash, and then will start pivoting towards you. At that point the screwdriver motion to apply to the wire changes: it is an horizontal motion towards you, to pull the wire towards the bottom mirror. Chances are that the wire may move by itself part of the way. It may even released itself very quickly - like a spring. Don't let yourself be surprised: the one thing you don't want is to do an abrupt motion with the screwdriver and scratch something.

- Look carefully and you should see the focusing screen. Tip the camera slowly towards you until the screen falls against the retaining wire. Look at the screen again: there may be a rectangular metal frame sticking to it: the chim. In this case it will have to be removed and put back in place in its original location between the focusing mirror and the pentaprism. Note that nothing at all attaches the chim to the focusing screen. Simply the fact that these two parts are pressed against one each other by the retaining wire for a long time makes them kind of stick together. Handle the chim carefully: it is easy to bend. Sometimes I also find it confusing to decide which is the chim and which is the retaining wire ! Just take your time and analyze what you see carefully. The chim has a frame shape. The wire is just, well, a wire.

- Again look at the focusing screen. There is a small tab located on its top edge, very close to the right edge of the screen (your right). Use the tweezers to remove the screen. If the chime came with it, remove it and put it back in place.

- Grab the new focusing screen by the tab with the tweezers. Orient the new focusing screen to have the tab in the top right.

- Now another delicate step: putting the wire back into place. Use a screwdriver to push the retaining wire back towards its original position. The pressure on the wire is mostly horizontal and slightly pushing down. I want to emphasize the fact that a motion that is strictly horizontal, althougth apparently the safe thing to do, will not be able to get the wire to get hooked by the latch (BTW that latch is under the protruding part of the frame with some kind of foam on top. If you're curious about it, it is best to use one of these little mirrors attached to a handle - the kind dentists use to see what's going on in the back side of your teeth - to see it). So when the wire gets close to the notch, your pressure must be slanted: mostly horizontally but also pushing down. I'd say 30 degrees slanted. Be careful in controlling your hand motion: if the wire escapes, your hand must not trip or you'll risk scratch the focusing mirror or other part of the camera.

- You'll feel more than you'll hear it a click when the wire hooks to the latch. Also, obviously, it won't come back when you release the pressure with the screwdriver. It it doesn't catch, try again. If it doesn't catch on the 2nd trial - trust my experience - * stop *. There is no point trying a 3rd time - or more - taking additional and useless risks to do something stupid. What that means is that the focusing screen and/or the chime is not quite in place, and there is no way the wire will ever lock. I just bring the retaining wire back, remove the focusing screen, check the chime is in place, put the focusing screen back, and try again.

- When the wire is back in place, remove the protecting material which you've put on top on the mirror at the beginning of the procedure, blow some air, clean the inside, put a lens on. Everything will work just fine! You're set.
--
Thierry

Andy

awesome job, Shay, very informative, and fun. Well done.

Thanks David, for putting it on the reviews site.

ian408

Thanks Shay.

Thanks too to Thierry for his comments.

Ian

rjpat

Shay, how about a long term follow up on the katz eye.

Shay Stephens

Long term follow up. Freakin' sweet! I don't even notice the thing in place most of the time. But when I do it is because I am checking the crop line to the scene or working a tricky bit of focus with the split prism. It has become an integral part of the camera now.

Bottom line, my camera will always have one of these gems installed!!!

claudermilk

Shay Stephens wrote:

Long term follow up. Freakin' sweet! I don't even notice the thing in place most of the time. But when I do it is because I am checking the crop line to the scene or working a tricky bit of focus with the split prism. It has become an integral part of the camera now.

Bottom line, my camera will always have one of these gems installed!!!

It's a natural part of the camera. When you borrow someone elses' body without the screen it feels like they just pinned an arm behind your back.

rjpat

Thanks for the update. Ordered mine tonight.

Art Scott

No one using the Beattie Intenscreens? They have been around for ever it seems.

ivar

Art Scott wrote:

No one using the Beattie Intenscreens? They have been around for ever it seems.

They don't appear to be making them for very many modern Canon cameras: http://www.display-optics.com/products_35mm-format_canon.htm

gtc

I have had the Katzeye on my 20D for about 12 months and it is very useful.

Not much good at f5.6 but sometimes still useable if it's bright and you are careful with eye position

A cheaper alternative is Haoda...you will need to search for it,don't have the URL,

claudermilk

Art Scott wrote:

No one using the Beattie Intenscreens? They have been around for ever it seems.

Doing a quick search it sounds like they are actually out of business and some other company took over the product? In any case, nothing for current Canon bodies.

gtc wrote:

I have had the Katzeye on my 20D for about 12 months and it is very useful.

Not much good at f5.6 but sometimes still useable if it's bright and you are careful with eye position

A cheaper alternative is Haoda...you will need to search for it,don't have the URL,

IIRC he's on Yahoo groups. I don't care for the cut-by-hand from a screen for another camera look of those. I also am not impressed by his attitude based on some discussions he participated in back when I was looking at screens; helped me to decide to give my money to someone who conducted themselves in a professional manner instead.