Visible Dust Sensor Cleaning

wxwax

VISIBLE DUST SENSOR CLEANING

There are two ways to clean your camera’s sensor. One is a wet cleaning, the so-called Copperhill method. The other is a dry cleaning, the Visible Dust method. We’re going to how you how easy it is to do the dry Visible Dust method.


THE TOOLS


Visible Dust Arctic Butterfly (left) , or Visible Dust Sensor Brush (right- the canned air is not included.)


These are the basic Visible Dust products. The Visible Dust method uses a brush that you swipe across your sensor. Visible Dust makes two kinds of brushes. Either will work. On the left is the Arctic Butterfly, a brush attached to a spinning motor. The spinning motion cleans the brush and gives it a static electricity charge. On the right is the standard Sensor Brush. You clean and charge the Sensor Brush with a can of compressed air that you’ll have to buy separately.


Canned compressed air cleans the standard Sensor Brush.


Clean the Sensor Brush before every swipe across your sensor. This is how you clean the Sensor Brush. Hold the brush near the can of compressed air. Do not shake the can of air. If you do, it will spit gunk onto your brush. Spray the brush with compressed air for 10 seconds. This cleans dust off of the brush, and gives it a charge of static electricity. The static helps lift the dust off your camera’s sensor. Do this process every time before you run the brush across your camera’s sensor.




Arctic Butterfly Spins Clean


The Arctic Butterfly does away with the can of compressed air. Instead, a tiny motor in the brush’s handle spins the brush, throwing off the dust and creating a static charge. Spin the brush for 5 seconds, pause, then spin it again for 5 seconds. And then once more, for a total of three times. Do this every time before you swipe the brush across your camera’s sensor.



MEET YOUR SENSOR

Expose your camera’s sensor.


To clean your sensor, you have to get to it. Remove the lens. Follow your camera manufacturer’s instructions on how to lock the mirror in the up position. Make sure you’re using a fresh battery, or have the camera plugged-in. You don’t want the mirror dropping down in the middle of the cleaning.


The swipe


Did you clean your brush? If so, make one pass across your sensor with the brush. Just one pass, only just hard enough for the brush to splay open a little bit.


The second swipe


Clean your brush. Then make a swipe across the part of the sensor you didn’t get on the first pass. Keep cleaning your brush and making swipes until you’ve covered all of the sensor, going in both directions. With the size brush and sensor we’re using in these photographs, that means a minimum of four cleaning/swipe cycles, covering the top and bottom half of the sensor, in both directions.

And that’s it! You’re done. Turn off the camera, so the mirror can come back down. Put a lens on and take a test photo, to make sure you got all the dust bunnies. If you didn’t, repeat as much as necessary.

DavidTO

Great work, Sid. The tute is live on our site here.

wxwax

Thanks for massaging it into the tute format, David.

claudermilk

Nice, simple tutorial.

Now to be a pain. There are other options for brushes that don't rape your wallet. VD's pricing just pisses me off ($100 for a brush?! gimme a break!), so I'd suggest going to *anyone* else. VD is just preying on noob DLSR user's fears. :pissed

Richard

claudermilk wrote:

Nice, simple tutorial.

Now to be a pain. There are other options for brushes that don't rape your wallet. VD's pricing just pisses me off ($100 for a brush?! gimme a break!), so I'd suggest going to *anyone* else. VD is just preying on noob DLSR user's fears. :pissed

I have to agree with Chris here. There is a lot of abuse in the price of accessories, I think. Add up the cost of this brush, a few plastic lens hoods, an L-bracket, a Lightshpere and a shutter remote switch and you are probably looking at the price of a pretty decent lens.

I have no idea what the profit margin is on lenses or bodies, but I'm guessing that a 30D would be over $10,000 if it had the same markup as this brush. I don't doubt that the brush works well--I just can't believe there aren't much cheaper alternatives that work equally well.

wxwax

I don't disagree. Their pricing is insane.

They contend that it takes a special kind of brush. I understand that such brushes can be bought in art stores for a great deal less. But I don't know anything about the specifics.

Rather than get into it, I kept it simple.

DavidTO

The process of cleaning the crud off of those brushes (in art stores) can be labor intensive, from what I've read.

In any case, I spend so much on sensor swabs and fluid, I think that this could actually be a money saver. Those sensor swabs aren't too cheap, either.

Not that I disagree. I mean, $50 would still be steep, eh?

Richard

DavidTO wrote:

The process of cleaning the crud off of those brushes (in art stores) can be labor intensive, from what I've read.

In any case, I spend so much on sensor swabs and fluid, I think that this could actually be a money saver. Those sensor swabs aren't too cheap, either.

Not that I disagree. I mean, $50 would still be steep, eh?

The Copperhill method isn't very expensive once you have invested in the (overpriced) swipe stick. Wrapping a pec pad around it is really pretty easy, and once you overcome your terror about the whole process, it works well.

I think vendors are taking advantage of the fear we have of ruining our very expensive cameras by claiming that they have a totally safe, totally foolproof cleaning method. However, a fool could wreck his camera with any one of them.

DavidTO

Yeah, well, see. That says a lot about me. I buy the pre-wrapped sensor swabs. The pec pads are too much a of a PITA, IMO.

I'm just a sucker, I guess.

rsinmadrid wrote:

The Copperhill method isn't very expensive once you have invested in the (overpriced) swipe stick. Wrapping a pec pad around it is really pretty easy, and once you overcome your terror about the whole process, it works well.

I think vendors are taking advantage of the fear we have of ruining our very expensive cameras by claiming that they have a totally safe, totally foolproof cleaning method. However, a fool could wreck his camera with any one of them.

Richard

wxwax wrote:

I don't disagree. Their pricing is insane.

They contend that it takes a special kind of brush. I understand that such brushes can be bought in art stores for a great deal less. But I don't know anything about the specifics.

Rather than get into it, I kept it simple.

Hey Sid,

I didn't really mean to hijack this thread into a discussion of pricing. Sorry about that. The tute is well done and will be useful to many people.

Regards,

wxwax

rsinmadrid wrote:

Hey Sid,

I didn't really mean to hijack this thread into a discussion of pricing. Sorry about that. The tute is well done and will be useful to many people.

Regards,

No worries, that's why this thread is here, to discuss this stuff. I may try the Copperhill method, just to see what it's like.

Richard

wxwax wrote:

No worries, that's why this thread is here, to discuss this stuff. I may try the Copperhill method, just to see what it's like.

One thing to keep in mind if you have never done it is that the first time will require repeated passes to get your sensor spotless. Mine was so dirty that it took eight passes. But once that's done, it is quick and easy to maintain later. I can't help thinking that a wet method will be able to remove sticky stuff that will resist static electricity. Just my opinion.

DavidTO

rsinmadrid wrote:

One thing to keep in mind if you have never done it is that the first time will require repeated passes to get your sensor spotless. Mine was so dirty that it took eight passes. But once that's done, it is quick and easy to maintain later. I can't help thinking that a wet method will be able to remove sticky stuff that will resist static electricity. Just my opinion.

If I had to choose one method, it would be copperhill, no doubt. Not that I'm an expert, but it makes sense that there will be gunk stuck to the sensor at times that the dry method won't remove.

wxwax

Could well be.

The appeal of the dry method is its ease.

Once I've done the wet method, I'll be in a better position to judge.

Thusie

You know Copperhill now has the sensor sweep brush, very resonable and works well for basic dust bunnies.

BTW nice arm Sid

wxwax

Thusie wrote:

You know Copperhill now has the sensor sweep brush, very resonable and works well for basic dust bunnies.

BTW nice arm Sid

:blush

And Visible Dust sells wet pads, too.

claudermilk

Yup they are direct competitors here. I went the Copper Hill route myself. I have the kit with both the Pec-Pads, et al, and brush.

The first time did indeed take several passes before getting the sensor acceptably clean. After that the brush is fine for most cases & a pass or two with the swab for more sticky gunk.

The pricing discussion hijack was entirely my fault. But, like I said their pricing just bugs the heck out of me.:splat

DavidTO

claudermilk wrote:

The pricing discussion hijack was entirely my fault. But, like I said their pricing just bugs the heck out of me.:splat

It's not a hijack. It's a discussion of the merits/drawbacks of these systems.

Aussieroo

Thanks for an interesting read. I know it is a little old but the topic is none the less relevant especially to our club members here with us going through the worst drought on record, so you can imagine the dust issues we are facing.

I do wonder to what extent anyone has tried to debunk the "Sensitive sensor" issue. Just how sensitive is the surface of the sensor? Not as soft as the focus screen I dare say. With brushes and swabs being used I wonder if anyone has tried for example usinf a very fine and clean reading glass cleaning cloth on the end of a swab stick? Or has anyone tried any other less expensive readily available fluid. Being budget driven which I am sure a lot of people would be, there just has to be someone who has experimented with some level of success and start to cut the profit margins of people selling these kits? Seems to me a little like the Y2K bug, boy didn't a few people in the know cash in on others "Ignorance"!

Jeffro

Aussieroo wrote:

I do wonder to what extent anyone has tried to debunk the "Sensitive sensor" issue.... With brushes and swabs being used I wonder if anyone has tried for example using a very fine and clean reading glass cleaning cloth on the end of a swab stick?

Go ahead and give those ideas a try and report back to us with the results!

I love my Visible Dust system. Wasn't cheap but it certainly works. No liquid to damage anything, no canned air needed...one time investment, and for the price I paid for my 2 d-slr's, it wasn't worth cutting corners for me.

gus

Aussieroo wrote:

Thanks for an interesting read. I know it is a little old but the topic is none the less relevant especially to our club members here with us going through the worst drought on record, so you can imagine the dust issues we are facing.

I do wonder to what extent anyone has tried to debunk the "Sensitive sensor" issue. Just how sensitive is the surface of the sensor? Not as soft as the focus screen I dare say. With brushes and swabs being used I wonder if anyone has tried for example usinf a very fine and clean reading glass cleaning cloth on the end of a swab stick? Or has anyone tried any other less expensive readily available fluid. Being budget driven which I am sure a lot of people would be, there just has to be someone who has experimented with some level of success and start to cut the profit margins of people selling these kits? Seems to me a little like the Y2K bug, boy didn't a few people in the know cash in on others "Ignorance"!

G'day Aussieroo..im sure there is another method. personally i cant see what the hoop-rah is all about. I open my camera in conditions that people wince in horror at & honestly dont baby my gear at all. I shoot different all sorts of dusty race venues here in QLD's current drought & i still dont get issues. Once a year i drop it at the local procamera shop & pay $50 & they clean it & then i only do it out of guilt not because i see dust. Hell i often sit my gear on the ground without lenses during changes. I simply dont have any problems.

Aussieroo

gus wrote:

G'day Aussieroo..im sure there is another method. personally i cant see what the hoop-rah is all about. I open my camera in conditions that people wince in horror at & honestly dont baby my gear at all. I shoot different all sorts of dusty race venues here in QLD's current drought & i still dont get issues. Once a year i drop it at the local procamera shop & pay $50 & they clean it & then i only do it out of guilt not because i see dust. Hell i often sit my gear on the ground without lenses during changes. I simply dont have any problems.

Must be an Aussie thing! "No worries Mate" or something like that:-) With lots of details in photos you don't see the dust mostly, once it has a lot of sky...well thats different. Still I would like ot hear how others might tackle this problem

pathfinder

Gus shoots the majority of his pictures at very wide apertures, so dust just does not show up in his images. I

f he stops down to f18 or f22 and shoot an even, overcast, sky, I'll bet it crawls out of hiding.

gus

pathfinder wrote:

Gus shoots the majority of his pictures at very wide apertures, so dust just does not show up in his images. I

f he stops down to f18 or f22 and shoot an even, overcast, sky, I'll bet it crawls out of hiding.

Absolutely it would mate ....but i dont shoot the sky at f18 or f22 if you get my drift. Even when i do close down a bit i still dont shoot one colour objects. You wont see it at a water/tree/race bike shot.

pathfinder

But IF you want to see the dust bunnies on your sensor, you must stop way down and shoot the sky or some other evenly illuminated area.

Shooting complex fine detailed images at large apertures guarentees that the dust bunnies will not be seen, is all I'm saying, Gus.

What time is it is Oz?? It is about 10:41 PM Thursay 12/21 here

jrollins

This was indeed a very interesting read - thanks! Especially since I JUST paid $72 to have my 20D cleaned. As I came out of the shop I told myself that I had to get over the fright, buy some supplies, and just do it next time.

gus

pathfinder wrote:

But IF you want to see the dust bunnies on your sensor, you must stop way down and shoot the sky or some other evenly illuminated area.

Sure you would. Sort of like under my car is no doubt absolutely filthy with road grim & i dont care as myself & no-one else can see it & it has no effect on the cars performance. I dont like to over complicate stuff thats all.

I just feel its necessary for our newer DSLR members to understand that cleaning a sensor over & over just because you can see dust at f22 at the sky or white paper is pointless unless your shooting req's it. Dont be inside your camera unless its necessary.

pathfinder wrote:

Shooting complex fine detailed images at large apertures guarentees that the dust bunnies will not be seen, is all I'm saying, Gus.

I dont know how others shoot but i generally stay under f10 & almost never shoot a full frame sky or white paper shot.

pathfinder wrote:

What time is it is Oz?? It is about 10:41 PM Thursay 12/21 here

2.24 pm & overcast which is why im staying inside...that & the xmas shopping crowd.

Richard

gus wrote:

I just feel its necessary for our newer DSLR members to understand that cleaning a sensor over & over just because you can see dust at f22 at the sky or white paper is pointless unless your shooting req's it. Dont be inside your camera unless its necessary.

This sounds exactly right. If you don't see the bunnies, then it doesn't matter, though I have seen it claimed that letting gunk accumulate too long will make removal much harder. My personal experience is that I bought the Copperhill kit but let it just sit on my desk for two months before I tried it. I finally was driven to use it because we had a month of overcast weather and I got tired of automatically reaching for the spot healing brush tool every time I started working on a shot with some sky in it. I had excellent results from the cleaning, but I don't plan on doing it again till I start seeing problems in my shots.

Cheers,

claudermilk

THat's about the right way IMHO. Leave well enough alone until you start seeing the dust, then it's time to break out the kit.

Which reminds me, I need to break out the kit this weekend. The spot heal is getting way too much use on my last two shoots (vacation beach scenes & plane flybys--f8-16 & lots of sky. Say hello, bunnies!).

pathfinder

Sorry Gus, I didn't mean for folks to think that I was suggesting that they need to compulsively clean their sensors. I knew you did not see dust buunies that often because I know what apertures you tend to shoot, as selective DOF is a hallmark of your images.

I absolutely agree that if it is not broke, DO NOT fix it, when it comes to grunge on the sensor. If I am not spotting dust bunnies in my images, I never bother to look for them. IF I am seeing them in my images enough to bother me, then I decide it may be time for spring cleaning. Landscape shooters frequently are shooting at apertures that bring out dust bunnies, and bird shooters get sky sometimes with BIFs.

I use an Arctic Butterfly or a Sensor Brush first - that frequently is all that is needed. Only if that fails do I perform a wet Methanol (Eclipse) swabbing. I am not bashful about swabbing, but I do not want to do it any more than is absolutely needed.