3D Boke and SHARE 3D pls!
Kevin
Registered Users Posts: 236 Major grins
Hi
Use the cross-eyed method to view these.
I quite enoyed the 3D boke here
This one has nice depth to it
Good detail in this one for me.
Please share your 3D shots, would love to see em here!
Use the cross-eyed method to view these.
I quite enoyed the 3D boke here
This one has nice depth to it
Good detail in this one for me.
Please share your 3D shots, would love to see em here!
Kevin.
the Photo Muse: http://the-photo-muse.blogspot.com
the Photo Muse: http://the-photo-muse.blogspot.com
0
Comments
that is so much fun it's scary way cool.:jawdrop takes a sec to get it but man thats sharp thank you rick.
Brian V.
I like doing 3-D macros
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
My Gallery
how do you get so much dof there brian?
the Photo Muse: http://the-photo-muse.blogspot.com
i think thay are shot at two angels one just a little to one side not much but a little i think? but very cool.rick
Dang it! I can never see these 3D shots,
no matter who posts them or how I get told to view them,
I cannot get my eyes to see the images as one .... Skippy
Skippy (Australia) - Moderator of "HOLY MACRO" and "OTHER COOL SHOTS"
ALBUM http://ozzieskip.smugmug.com/
:skippy Everyone has the right to be stupid, but some people just abuse the privilege :dgrin
Same here
My Gallery
Also, make sure that a)ALL of both images fit on your screen and b) your mouse is NOT on either image.
SmugMug Support Specialist - www.help.smugmug.com
http://www.phyxiusphotos.com
Equine Photography in Maryland - Dressage, Eventing, Hunters, Jumpers
http://www.loreo.com/
These can be found at numerous dealers online, just google for '3d lens in a cap'
I find the the larger sized images can be tough to view on screen without a viewer. I like to stick with smaller images so they are easier to see with crossed eyes
Santa on the Tree
Some of the decorations from the tree
And one of our cats
Check my 3D gallery for these and the 3D Woblle effect versions
http://andym.smugmug.com/3D/266484
Andy
Canon 5D Mk III
Canon 24-105L IS USM; Canon 16-35 f/2.8L USM; Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM II
Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM; Bigma 50-500 f/4-6.3 EX DG HSM
My Galleries
http://www.3dstereo.com/
inexpensive cards viewers, that are great for looking at these images on a screen can be found here
http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/lor-lite.html
The 3D Lens in a cap can be found here
http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/3dyc.html
If you order ione make sure to get the right one, they are different for full frame and APS sized sensors
If you want to take the pics without an additional beamsplitter then you will need to take 2 images of the same thing, but the camera needs to be moved between shots. If you are as good as Brian/Lord V then you can just move the camera and take the 2 shots, but the rest of us mere mortals need some help .
You can buy a slide bar, similar to this
http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/bar-bmmm.html
Mount your camera on that. Take the first shot, slide the camera sideways a coupe of inches and then take the second shot.
Join the two pics in PS and then view them from a comfortable distance.
The downside to this method is that it does not allow you to take pictures that might have movement in them (clouds, flowers blowing in the wind, cars racing by etc)
you can imagine how hard it might be to view those kinds of pics if something has moved between the frames
For help in viewing larger imaages you might have to move away from the print/screen in order to be able to do the cross eye viewing. I cant view the larger images in this thread at normal viewing distances without a viewer, but move back a couple of feet and its a lot easier
Andy
Canon 5D Mk III
Canon 24-105L IS USM; Canon 16-35 f/2.8L USM; Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM II
Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM; Bigma 50-500 f/4-6.3 EX DG HSM
My Galleries
each shot of the fly pair is focus stacked from at least 2 shots- you need a very patient fly.
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
Doug, Rick, indeed.
You shoot one, then move horizontally about 3 inches or so, shoot again.
combine in pp and voila!
the Photo Muse: http://the-photo-muse.blogspot.com
cmon skippy, the team is waiting for you to achieve success!
batter up mate, have another go
the Photo Muse: http://the-photo-muse.blogspot.com
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/freeview.html
To take them with a normal camera you use the cha- cha method- take one shot move the camera sideways about 1/30th of the nearest subject distance and take another shot . I think technically you are not supposed to reframe the second shot, ie move the angle of the camera, but I nearly always do. You can put the shots together in photoshop remembering to swap the pictures over (ie pic taken on the left is put as the right of the pair), but it is a lot easier to use the freeware prog stereophotomaker as this also allows you to align the pics properly (you need to get the same elements in both pics all horizontally aligned with each other) this helps reduce eye strain when viewing them. The prog also allows you to play with the stereo window (ie how far behind the frame the elements appear to be) but you need a pair of anaglyph glasses to do this (those red,blue filter glasses). Normally all the picture should appear to be behind the frame but you are allowed elements to appear in front of it as long as they do not touch the frame- when this is done part of the image appears to be in front of the monitor screen.
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
like em too much
the Photo Muse: http://the-photo-muse.blogspot.com
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
Here's some more.
The passion flower works particularly well.
#3 has a through the window element to it.
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
You view them by staring at them and relaxing your eyes till the two frames come together. Not sure if you really end up crossing your eyes or just the act the you are focusing your eyes beyond the images and the 2 images are merging through that.
I am planning on getting a slide bar to do the Cha-Cha method. The loreo is a lot of fun, but your are limited to taking only 2 portrait images on a sinagle frame. You cant rotate the camera to get 2 Landscape images , as your eyes dot not look at the world rotated 90 degrees .
All in all this is an interesting experiment and add a new dimension (pun intended ) to photography
Andy
Canon 5D Mk III
Canon 24-105L IS USM; Canon 16-35 f/2.8L USM; Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM II
Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM; Bigma 50-500 f/4-6.3 EX DG HSM
My Galleries
I suspect the loreo gives you a parallel viewing pair which you stare through as you suggest to get the stereo pair. I'm so used to doing cross-eye ones that I can't do parallel ones now- you do get a 3-D effect doing them cross-eye but certain parts of it are wrong (things in front instead of being behind objects).
From my limited survey of users- people tend to find cross-eye ones are easier to visualise although those magic eye things from a few years ago were all parallel stereograms I believe.
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
I am not going to pretend that the Loreo solution is perfect. The lens is a 35mm, f/11 or f/22 lens only. Can only be used with the camera in Landscape mode to take 2 Portrait images per frame. The lenses appear to be plastic, so im am sure that is going to cause some issues.
But it is simple to use and produces some fun images to play with. If it whets some appetites for people to explore further then that is a good thing, and th eprice is pretty good too
Canon 5D Mk III
Canon 24-105L IS USM; Canon 16-35 f/2.8L USM; Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM II
Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM; Bigma 50-500 f/4-6.3 EX DG HSM
My Galleries
have I uttered the phrase OMG.
I will then call this number 3.
sheesh
the Photo Muse: http://the-photo-muse.blogspot.com
tristansphotography.com (motorsports)
Canon 20D | 10-22 | 17-85 IS | 50/1.4 | 70-300 IS | 100/2.8 macro
Sony F717 | Hoya R72