Cool! I visited the site and watched the "fly taking off" video - like it leaps into the air - very interesting. You can even manually advance it for even slower motion by dragging the slider with the mouse.
Now I'll have to go back and look at the other stuff! Thanks, Erik!
Cool! I visited the site and watched the "fly taking off" video - like it leaps into the air - very interesting. You can even manually advance it for even slower motion by dragging the slider with the mouse.
Now I'll have to go back and look at the other stuff! Thanks, Erik!
You're welcome. and thanks for reminding me that most of the time, what I do for a living is pretty fun!
The pin is the silver thing hanging out of the lock ring next to a round peg. Push the pin up into the lock ring as you open. I did it, it works,
Dane, you have the latest version of the FD lenses. It has the black locking ring and the earlier lenses have a chrome like ring. In the photo you can barely see the pin sneaking down for a peek. I hope this helps more than my earlier efforts. I learned also.
Cheers
Michael dunno
YeeHaaaa!!! :ivar
Michael - Mine is still different from the one you pictured, but your info, coupled with a hint from a guy at a camera store that I needed to push a pin in before it could be turned, did the trick! I had suspicioned that, but couldn't find the pin.
As it was, it was BARELY protruding, but pushing it in with a small screwdriver allowed the innards to rotate CW about 70 degrees. Viola! The aperture opened up to 2.8 and I can now shut it down to 22 by moving the DOF preview lever CCW. Now, i get what "lever" sirsloop was talking about moving with your pinky.
I'm waiting for my 52 mm step down ring, but will attempt some "hold it up" shots just to see what happens. More later.
Thanks to those who supported the diagnostic effort along the way!
awesome! Mystery solved... and WE ALL feel like FD noobs!
Sloop, make that FD(n) noobs, if you please. Dane I'm gladyou finally got it resolved andam delighted that I could help in part. Goodluck with the new toy and:
Good Light
Michael
Photography: the art of seeing the uncommon in the common.
+++++++ CANON EOS XT- 350D - Sigma 28 - 80 mm macro, MC Zenitar EF 3.5/16MM CANON F1n, Canon FD 28mm 2.8 SC, Canon FL 200mm 3.5 Jupiter 9 2.8/85mm used on bellows for EOS & F1 Bellows is M42 thread with adaptors for both cameras. Tair 135mm 2.8 Kiev 88 6x6 camera - Mir 38B 3.5/65mm, Arsat B 2.8/80mm, J26V 250 mm tele
16 various FSU & German cameras
I recently got a 28mm f/2.8 FD lens off of ebay along with a reversing ring for use on my film camera, and I found that I first had to push in the pin located (in DrDane's diagram) directly above the red dot, rotate it a couple of mm, and then use the one circled in his diagram.
Does anybody know approximately what the shutter speed would have to be in order to handhold a reversed 28mm lens? I was thinking 1/28s at first, but then I realized that the reversing ring itself probably pushes the focal length out a few mm, on top of the fact that the optics are reversed. I just don't want to waste too many film frames figuring it out, and figured one of you digital guys might've taken enough to know the answer.
I'm loving my $40 macro setup! Thanks for all of the information guys :]
Does anybody know approximately what the shutter speed would have to be in order to handhold a reversed 28mm lens? I was thinking 1/28s at first, but then I realized that the reversing ring itself probably pushes the focal length out a few mm, on top of the fact that the optics are reversed. I just don't want to waste too many film frames figuring it out, and figured one of you digital guys might've taken enough to know the answer.
Doesn't matter how many frames we've taken, we can't tell you what the proper exposure is for the shot you're trying to take. Are you saying your camera won't meter? Even my 30d meters with the reversed lens on it.
If you're simply asking what the "slowest" you could safely handhold, then you can't use the 1/focal length rule of thumb here (mind you, its only that, a rule of thumb, everyones thumb differs). With that much magnification, you need to use a very very fast shutter speed ~1/250 or greater, which will require tons of light. This is how many macros are done, such as bugs, because tripoding for such little things is very hard, but I'll say again - you need LOTS of light! Or use a tripod, there's a reason high-powered microscopes are mounted on expensive optical tables. Think about this: Your depth of field is razor thin and every little shake of your hand will move your subject almost completely out of your frame! If you shake your hand just 1mm, you've just moved across more than 10% of your image (on my reversed 28mm, my image is about 10mm across).
But again, I'm surprised that in full Manual mode, you don't have metering capability w/your camera. What body are you using?
DoctorIt, my camera does meter (Canon T2). It was more a question of the rule of thumb bit... definitely makes sense regarding the fast shutter speed needed.
You can't really consider this 1/28th because the amount of zoom is incredibly larger than what a normal 28mm lens would provide, even with 2ft of extension tubes on it.
I run my 580ex on a flash bracket and shoot with the aperture at f/22. The flash provides most of the light so shutter speed is not really a concern. Using flash... 1/200 sounds good. At f/22 the amount of ambient light that will expose the frame is minimal, even at longer shutter speeds.
Comments
May be time to JB weld that thing closed!
Cool! I visited the site and watched the "fly taking off" video - like it leaps into the air - very interesting. You can even manually advance it for even slower motion by dragging the slider with the mouse.
Now I'll have to go back and look at the other stuff! Thanks, Erik!
Celebrating the essence of Nature, the Human Spirit, and the Divine Presence in all
http://www.drdane.smugmug.com or:
http://www.inner-light-images.com
moderator of: The Flea Market [ guidelines ]
YeeHaaaa!!!
Michael - Mine is still different from the one you pictured, but your info, coupled with a hint from a guy at a camera store that I needed to push a pin in before it could be turned, did the trick! I had suspicioned that, but couldn't find the pin.
As it was, it was BARELY protruding, but pushing it in with a small screwdriver allowed the innards to rotate CW about 70 degrees. Viola! The aperture opened up to 2.8 and I can now shut it down to 22 by moving the DOF preview lever CCW. Now, i get what "lever" sirsloop was talking about moving with your pinky.
I'm waiting for my 52 mm step down ring, but will attempt some "hold it up" shots just to see what happens.
Thanks to those who supported the diagnostic effort along the way!
Celebrating the essence of Nature, the Human Spirit, and the Divine Presence in all
http://www.drdane.smugmug.com or:
http://www.inner-light-images.com
Sloop, make that FD(n) noobs, if you please. Dane I'm gladyou finally got it resolved andam delighted that I could help in part. Goodluck with the new toy and:
Good Light
Michael
http://www.tabblo.com/studio/view/tabblos/mikeb380/
========
CANON EOS XT- 350D - Sigma 28 - 80 mm macro, MC Zenitar EF 3.5/16MM
CANON F1n, Canon FD 28mm 2.8 SC, Canon FL 200mm 3.5
Jupiter 9 2.8/85mm used on bellows for EOS & F1 Bellows is M42 thread with adaptors for both cameras.
Tair 135mm 2.8
Kiev 88 6x6 camera - Mir 38B 3.5/65mm, Arsat B 2.8/80mm, J26V 250 mm tele
16 various FSU & German cameras
I recently got a 28mm f/2.8 FD lens off of ebay along with a reversing ring for use on my film camera, and I found that I first had to push in the pin located (in DrDane's diagram) directly above the red dot, rotate it a couple of mm, and then use the one circled in his diagram.
Does anybody know approximately what the shutter speed would have to be in order to handhold a reversed 28mm lens? I was thinking 1/28s at first, but then I realized that the reversing ring itself probably pushes the focal length out a few mm, on top of the fact that the optics are reversed. I just don't want to waste too many film frames figuring it out, and figured one of you digital guys might've taken enough to know the answer.
I'm loving my $40 macro setup! Thanks for all of the information guys :]
If you're simply asking what the "slowest" you could safely handhold, then you can't use the 1/focal length rule of thumb here (mind you, its only that, a rule of thumb, everyones thumb differs). With that much magnification, you need to use a very very fast shutter speed ~1/250 or greater, which will require tons of light. This is how many macros are done, such as bugs, because tripoding for such little things is very hard, but I'll say again - you need LOTS of light! Or use a tripod, there's a reason high-powered microscopes are mounted on expensive optical tables. Think about this: Your depth of field is razor thin and every little shake of your hand will move your subject almost completely out of your frame! If you shake your hand just 1mm, you've just moved across more than 10% of your image (on my reversed 28mm, my image is about 10mm across).
But again, I'm surprised that in full Manual mode, you don't have metering capability w/your camera. What body are you using?
moderator of: The Flea Market [ guidelines ]
You can't really consider this 1/28th because the amount of zoom is incredibly larger than what a normal 28mm lens would provide, even with 2ft of extension tubes on it.
I run my 580ex on a flash bracket and shoot with the aperture at f/22. The flash provides most of the light so shutter speed is not really a concern. Using flash... 1/200 sounds good. At f/22 the amount of ambient light that will expose the frame is minimal, even at longer shutter speeds.