The Decline of Fashion Photography

Justiceiro

Check out this interesting photo editorial on the decline of fashion photography:

Slate's Article

DoctorIt

Interesting. I don't know if agree with all his comparisons of "bad" modern photos. But I did like that part about how current models look pretty dumb and submissive. Forget the physical proportions part for a second, the looks are always blank as opposed to the indeed confident looks of the 50s 60s.

marlinspike

I'm with him on that whole art versus working for a living thing. I don't know where people got the idea of photography as art, but it ticks me off.

dogwood

Gimme a break-- that 'article' is sheer garbage, IMO. Mario Testino was a waiter before he was a photographer-- so that means he didn't want to be a photographer? Yeah, and how many of us have to work jobs to pay the bills-- even while we pursue photography? Does that mean I'm not a photographer because I don't earn my entire living that way?

Lee Miller would have been a much, much better example for that-- problem is she went on to become a fantastic war photographer for British Vogue during WWII. So she doesn't exactly fit the bad artist fashion photographer mold the Slate article seems hell-bent on creating.

Not a single mention of David Bailey either-- in fact I believe Nick Knight was the only UK fashion shooter mentioned. Incidentally, Knight actually turned down a commission to shoot for American Vogue so he could spend more time with his family. And a whole lot of Knight's recent work has absolutely nothing to do with fashion. Yeah, Irving Penn was pretty cool-- but what about Cecil Beaton? It was photogs like that who created modern fashion photography-- Penn just followed their leads.

Where was Steven Meisel in this discussion? Plenty of his Vogue spreads are thought-provoking and wonderful-- whether you like fashion or not.

Believe it or not, Vogue and other Conde Nast publications are not the innovators or trend-setters this Slate piece claims. Why else would guys like Bailey and Knight continue to shoot for publications like iD (after all, both of those guys could easily make their living off their British Vogue commissions).

I don't know who shoots the Prada ads-- but I do know who shoots the current Dior ads. Nick Knight. So it was interesting to read that fashion editorial work blows now, while the advertising work is innovative. Most of the time it's the exact same photographers!

Wonder what Slate would say about my work? Incidentally, this model is NOT underage, though I'm sure Slate would think so. She's 19.

Justiceiro

I agree that the dig about MArio Testino's previous job is a tad snarky. But I do agree that the "dumb" look on models is distressingly common these days. Also, I don't dig heroin chic.

dogwood

Justiceiro wrote:

I agree that the dig about MArio Testino's previous job is a tad snarky. But I do agree that the "dumb" look on models is distressingly common these days. Also, I don't dig heroin chic.

Good news-- heroin chic pretty much went out with the 90's.

Ironically, I just got a copy of "Vogue Book of Fashion Photography 1919-1979" in the mail today. There's a whole section of Irving Penn fashion photos from the 50's where every single model is smoking a cigarette to look cool. Yup, that Penn, he sure was all about "understated elegance" as Slate says. Now would that be the elegance of lung cancer or carbon monoxide?

wxwax

Keep it up, pete. This is a nice glimpse into another world, thanks.

dogwood

wxwax wrote:

Keep it up, pete. This is a nice glimpse into another world, thanks.

Yeah, I don't see much fashion photography or discussion here so it was nice to see this OP. I really think with digital we're going to see more and more accessible fashion photography. Don't get me wrong-- I personally love Vogue and especially British Vogue-- but I also like a lot of the fashion photography I see on the 'net by unknown photogs in places like Buenos Aires. Sometimes the best shots are simple ones that not only reflect the location, but the people and style too.

Justiceiro

These are great shots Pete. I think they are better than a lot of the Fashion photography that I see in a great many publications. I think the slate article has a point (in that a great deal of the stuff out there is, well, boring) it goes too far in claiming that there is some sort of terminal decline going on.

It's important to keep in mind that the fashion photography that is preserved from the past is the best of what was, not necessarily the totality of it.

I'm sure there were bad painters during the renaiscance as well, but those don't get hung in the Met, do they?

wxwax

Good to know about British Vogue, I'll try to get my hands on a copy.

Is it your impression that digital has lowered the technical quality of fashion photos? I think the argument could be made that sports photography has taken a hit in production value since the switch. Perhaps more noise, more blown highlights in magazines like Sports Illustrated than there used to be.