The Oh So Elusive: Water Droplets
jsedlak
Registered Users Posts: 487 Major grins
For 2 days straight I have been doing nothing but expirementing with water droplet shots... Here are a couple of the things I have learned...
My first shot, taken with the 24-105L at 105mm. Auto-Focus, four lights, f4 and ISO 1600. Here I learned that focus was wrong with auto-focusing and that I needed more light as well as lower ISO rating.
I moved to using onboard flash in normal mode. I soon realized that the camera (XTi) could not sync past 1/200sec. In this case I need at least 1/1500-1/2500sec shutter speed. I moved to the 50mm f/1.8 at f1.8.
I also moved to clear water because the darker colored water (although awesome looking) required a LOT more light than I could provide.
This one is at ISO200 and 1/2000s shutter with flash.
And now to my best shot. Moved to ISO400, rearranged the flash to bounce off some white shades that are pointed down. I also took off the diffuser here, and more importantly boosted aperature to f8.
So to cover what I have learned so far...
- Light is good, there is never enough light available. In the end I have 5 halogen lights and a direct-flash (nondiffused) bounced of shades that are pointed to reflect the light down to the bowl.
- Larger aperature is better. At f/1.8 the shots were easy to get, but the whole crown was never in focus due to DoF. Between f/5.6 and f/10 seems to be the sweet spot, especially on the nifty fifty.
- Manual Focus is the most important part! Focus on the dropping device manually where you are aiming to drop the water. AF will focus on the back of the bowl.
- The higher the shutter speed, the better. I admit that anything under 1/600 will yield pretty useless results with lots of blur. Between 1/2000 and 1/4000 seems to be the sweet spot, but generally the faster the better.
I am going to expirement more with clear water and then move onto things like milk, paint, etc. Adding more color as I get better and better at this...
My first shot, taken with the 24-105L at 105mm. Auto-Focus, four lights, f4 and ISO 1600. Here I learned that focus was wrong with auto-focusing and that I needed more light as well as lower ISO rating.
I moved to using onboard flash in normal mode. I soon realized that the camera (XTi) could not sync past 1/200sec. In this case I need at least 1/1500-1/2500sec shutter speed. I moved to the 50mm f/1.8 at f1.8.
I also moved to clear water because the darker colored water (although awesome looking) required a LOT more light than I could provide.
This one is at ISO200 and 1/2000s shutter with flash.
And now to my best shot. Moved to ISO400, rearranged the flash to bounce off some white shades that are pointed down. I also took off the diffuser here, and more importantly boosted aperature to f8.
So to cover what I have learned so far...
- Light is good, there is never enough light available. In the end I have 5 halogen lights and a direct-flash (nondiffused) bounced of shades that are pointed to reflect the light down to the bowl.
- Larger aperature is better. At f/1.8 the shots were easy to get, but the whole crown was never in focus due to DoF. Between f/5.6 and f/10 seems to be the sweet spot, especially on the nifty fifty.
- Manual Focus is the most important part! Focus on the dropping device manually where you are aiming to drop the water. AF will focus on the back of the bowl.
- The higher the shutter speed, the better. I admit that anything under 1/600 will yield pretty useless results with lots of blur. Between 1/2000 and 1/4000 seems to be the sweet spot, but generally the faster the better.
I am going to expirement more with clear water and then move onto things like milk, paint, etc. Adding more color as I get better and better at this...
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Comments
One thing to try- you can use sync flash in a slightened darkened room with similar settings of around 1/200th,F8-F11 and say IS0400. The flash duration is much faster than 1/200th (more like 1/10000) so if there is not much other light that is your effective shutter speed.
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
Stopping down the power of your sync'ed flash is one of the best ways to really control shutter speed. Throw it manual and set it to 1/8 or even 1/32 and you can shoot at 1/125 s in a fairly dark room, and still stop the action of the falling water.
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Interesting idea that makes perfect sense! How little light do I need...? Like pitch black?
Let's say a "normally" lit living room wouldn't have much of an effect on your exposure. Even at 1/32 power, your flash is still multiple X brighter than room light, especially at 1/125th of a second.
Look at the exif on this one, it might surprise you. It was shot in our family room with nothing but a reading lamp on in a far corner of the room for some ambient light. Flash (a shoe-mounted 580EX) did the rest.
moderator of: The Flea Market [ guidelines ]
What a great post photographing water droplets is something many of us tried, I gave up trying for a CROWN, and opted for the drops dripping from the tap.
Glad you got a pleasing result in the end
I see Brian and Doc have giving you some great tips, and I will have to give this a try too, thank you for taking the time to show us how you conducted your experiement and what you learnt from it ... Skippy
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Skippy (Australia) - Moderator of "HOLY MACRO" and "OTHER COOL SHOTS"
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:skippy Everyone has the right to be stupid, but some people just abuse the privilege :dgrin