Ring Flash thingy (7 images)
First, let me clarify; this is not a "true" ring flash. This is a device that reforms the light from a single E-TTL II compatible flash into a shape and design which produces light "similar to" a ring flash. It is a work in progress, but here's the progress so far.
I won't provide step-by-step instructions, because I'm sure there are better ways to accomplish most of what I've done. Rather, I hope to give enough detail to allow an understanding what was done and why.
It is constructed primarily from an emptied ice-cream tub, with the lid printing removed by scrubbing with steel wool. A hole is formed in the lid and bottom, a pie tin (also with a hole in the middle) is placed in the bottom, and a tube inserted to fit through all the holes. The pie tin is simply a reflector for the bottom of the device, which becomes the back reflector for the device.
The tube is formed of a cylinder of sheet foam (black), covered by a sheet of aluminum also formed in a tube. The black inner surface provides a tunnel through the device for the camera lens. The aluminum keeps light from entering the tube, reflecting the light around the inside of the device.
A slot/window is also cut into the side of the device, to insert the flash.
The flash is normally tilted a bit to aim more towards the bottom reflector.
Here is the device assembled and lens inserted:
... and this is how the light reforms and emits:
Note that the light doesn't completely surround the ring, and there is a blackout in front of the flash unit. Still, the light does wrap partly around, and it is very diffuse and close to the lens, many of the properties of a "true" ring flash. The lack of complete wrap might even be a partial benefit, in that there is still some "modeling" of the subject.
Currently, the flash just sits in the slot of the device, and the flash is controlled by an "off-the-camera" cord so full E-TTL is retained.
Finally, some examples (all are Canon XT, ISO 200, w/Sigma 18-50mm, f2.8 lens at f22, Sigma 500 Super flash):
I think shadows are very similar to a "true" ring flash, but a ring flash is much more convenient to use. This contraption requires two hands, one hand for the device and one hand for the camera.
I'm still working on it, but the light is pretty encouraging so far.
ziggy53
I won't provide step-by-step instructions, because I'm sure there are better ways to accomplish most of what I've done. Rather, I hope to give enough detail to allow an understanding what was done and why.
It is constructed primarily from an emptied ice-cream tub, with the lid printing removed by scrubbing with steel wool. A hole is formed in the lid and bottom, a pie tin (also with a hole in the middle) is placed in the bottom, and a tube inserted to fit through all the holes. The pie tin is simply a reflector for the bottom of the device, which becomes the back reflector for the device.
The tube is formed of a cylinder of sheet foam (black), covered by a sheet of aluminum also formed in a tube. The black inner surface provides a tunnel through the device for the camera lens. The aluminum keeps light from entering the tube, reflecting the light around the inside of the device.
A slot/window is also cut into the side of the device, to insert the flash.
The flash is normally tilted a bit to aim more towards the bottom reflector.
Here is the device assembled and lens inserted:
... and this is how the light reforms and emits:
Note that the light doesn't completely surround the ring, and there is a blackout in front of the flash unit. Still, the light does wrap partly around, and it is very diffuse and close to the lens, many of the properties of a "true" ring flash. The lack of complete wrap might even be a partial benefit, in that there is still some "modeling" of the subject.
Currently, the flash just sits in the slot of the device, and the flash is controlled by an "off-the-camera" cord so full E-TTL is retained.
Finally, some examples (all are Canon XT, ISO 200, w/Sigma 18-50mm, f2.8 lens at f22, Sigma 500 Super flash):
I think shadows are very similar to a "true" ring flash, but a ring flash is much more convenient to use. This contraption requires two hands, one hand for the device and one hand for the camera.
I'm still working on it, but the light is pretty encouraging so far.
ziggy53
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Comments
I love DIY projects! Be interesting to see what your final version is like.
http://www.twitter.com/deegolden
Thanks Dee.
The great thing is I can justify another tub of ice cream!
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
Thanks LB.
I did see that design, but I'm not sure I could get f22 at ISO 200 with it. It seems more likely to be less efficient. Cheap enough to try though.
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Thanks Sid, I'm working on it.
I don't think this has a large enough radiating surface to compare to those glamour type ring flashes, but I still want to try it.
http://www.pictureline.com/product.php?id=13593
and then the softlight reflector:
http://www.profoto-usa.com/products/d4/d4_fhs.asp
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Great DIY!
Tupperware usage at its best!
Thanks Gus.
It's really not too bad a project. I think I've got less than $1USD in (new) materials. Of course, that's how much in $AUD?
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Thanks Nik.
I love projects that start by eating something. I think this was left from Thanksgiving.:food
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
If you're interested, I've been collecting the following ideas on how to make a ringflash modifier (for portraits, not macro) using my SB600.
1. Ultra simple cardboard shoot through by Brett Admire
2. Almost professional Bare bulb and bundt pan by Patrick Bishop
3. Modified cardboard box by Dennison Bertram
4. Double plastic bowl by Jedrik (his Flickr ID)
5. And now... Ice cream tub (this thread) by Ziggy53
Alien Bees ABR800 ring flash for $400 is a huge advance compared to the $1000+ models from other manufacturers, but I'd rather not spend even that much for an occasional toy and I'd rather have something that is more portable. It seems like it's about time for someone to invent and market a commercial ring flash modifier (along the lines of a Lumiquest soft box) those who don't want to spend the money for a decidated ring flash. I know I'd buy one if it was less than $80.
Mike
Patch has a Profoto, he let me use it for some headshots, and I really liked the effect.
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
Mike,
First, thanks for the list and links. That is pretty comprehensive and thorough. I'm amazed at the ingenuity of most photographers, but then, that's exactly how photography came to be.
While I am flattered to be confused and mistaken for "skippy", let me introduce myself; I'm "ziggy". Other than the vague soundex similarity, I think there's a gender difference, and skippy is just sooo much better looking. So watch your back, 'cause she might be looking for you.
ziggy53 (I've been waiting for an excuse to boldface that sucker.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Thanks George. I'd surely like to see what you could do with one of these, especially in a surgical arena.
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
tub for fun?
Patch gets all the good stuff.
Any examples?
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Thanks Ian.
The sky's the limit! I'm thinking of two different colors on either side for some macro stuff.
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Oops! I don't know how that happened.
Is she armed and dangerous? Maybe I should go in hiding...
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
Yep, that's the effect. Limited visible shadows, wild catchlight (like no other kind of light) and a really rapid light falloff. Cool stuff! Very pretty lady!
Thanks,
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
My thought is to use MR16 lamps in a circle. Place them in a tin housing with a gel holder in front for diffusion or color correction. I would also have to cut a hole in that sheet of gel too.
This whole bucket could be 15-18 inches in diameter, would that be better, or worse for portraits?
Using multiple lights in a circular pattern, you may have to double or even triple diffuse in order to eliminate/smooth the individual sources and make the source look as one. (This is not an absolute. See links below.)
Heat will probably be a design issue, and complicate the housing design or at least limit run times.
The size of the ring needs to be larger as the distance to subject increases, in order to gain the same effect. A larger ring is usually a benefit because it allows a longer focal length, which is usually preferable for portraits.
Because of the properties of a ringlight, the light is not as coherent as in most other sources, although softboxes are similar. This means that much more power is required at distance, or larger aperture, or higher ISO, or combination of the above.
Related projects you might be interested in, in addition to the Tanuki links:
(Mild caution, some glamour shots in these)
http://www.cyberbeach.net/~dbardell/ringlight.html
http://flickr.com/photos/glowell/139968127/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ricdiaz2/172519617/
The last link is especially encouraging, and the results are pretty amazing.
Good luck and remember to share the experience,
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
The MR16 lamps have a high CRI, that is why I'm really attracted to that lamp.
http://www.bulbs.com/Category/GU5.3/40W_--_75W/White--Neutral-/results.aspx
Do you see anything I might have missed?
I will definately share this project when it's done, but it is not exactly a "beginners" DIY, considering the sheet metal work and welding the base.
A dimmer will either cause the lamps to hum and potentially flicker (triac or thyrister), or it will cause a dramatic color temperature shift (resistor type). Either way, if you can, use at most a 1/30 sec shutter to make sure you catch a full wave, or exposure will be somewhat unreliable using the dimmer. (60 cycle)
Also, those lamps are halogen technology, and if you dim them for long periods, the recycling properties will be compromised, and significant darkening will occur on the bulb envelope, shortening the bulb life and reducing output. (They need to run pretty hot.)
I think your basic premise is sound, and 10 bulbs should give an interesting look.
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
know that about the halogen. I guess maybe I could just run them off of a switch instead. Although, my first thought with this device was to have 2 circuits inside. One with 35 watt lamps and one with 50 watters. You could turn on either one or both depending on the conditions. This may be the way I go now, although that will increase the price a bit and maybe the overall size of the unit too.
However, having an 850 watt light source could be cool too! :cool
It looks like it might be an upgrade to your version here.
Thanks for the link. It is different, but I'm not sure about it being an upgrade.
The version I built has the advantage of creating a larger overall emitter surface, and I chose to make the light emit very close to the lens. This gives a better fill for macro and close focus work, allowing the light to penetrate further into an orifice, like an open mouth, for instance.
The device in your link has more of a "hole" in the center of the light, which will yield a more distinctive "donut" shaped catch light for portraiture.
Each device has its own properties, and slightly different applications. I may have to build one of these "bowl" lights for myself, to explore the differences.
Thanks,
ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums