Mounting prints

TomaS

I could not find a discussion about this so here goes.

I am having trouble framing large (11x14 and up) SM prints. Specifically, mounting the print on backerboard. I have tried photo glue stick and tape, but the paper soon wrinkles no how much I use. I talked to a craft store employee who works in the framing dept, and she told me to have it 'dry mounted' by them. An 11x14 would cost $12 which is not going to be cost effective if I want to hang these for sale on speculation.

Does anyone have another DIY technique that works?

Angelo

First I want to know more about the type paper you're printing on. If it's wrinkling I have to assume you're not using a heavyweight photo paper.

> Why not dry mount them yourself?

Just buy a can of 3M spray adhesive at the art store. You apply a very light coat to the back of your print as well as the face of the backer-board; let dry a few minutes and then attach together

But, I think there are many better ways of doing this. Can you tell us more about the type of framing?

TomaS

Thanks for the reply Angelo.

I am using the standard photo paper that comes from SM (EZprints). It is not heavyweight.

> Why not dry mount them yourself?
>Just buy a can of 3M spray adhesive at the art store. You apply a very light coat to the back of your print as well as the face of the backer-board; let dry a few minutes and then attach together

I bought a can of spray adhesive but have not tried it yet. My understanding of the true 'dry mount' technique is that it involves a machine that uses heat and pressure to bind the photo to the board.

I have been using foam core in the same size as the print, applying adhesive to it, and placing the print on it. Then add the matte and insert in frame.

I just read here of a way to do it without any adhesive. Not sure if that will work with standard photo paper.

Angelo

TomaS wrote:

My understanding of the true 'dry mount' technique is that it involves a machine that uses heat and pressure to bind the photo to the board.

True but obviously most of us don't own a press.

I have been using foam core in the same size as the print, applying adhesive to it, and placing the print on it. Then add the matte and insert in frame.

And some frames will simply hold the print via pressure.

I just read here of a way to do it without any adhesive. Not sure if that will work with standard photo paper.

Hinging was going to be my next suggestion. Good luck

.

kdog

I've always had good luck hanging the picture from the top edge of the mat with a short piece of tape. 2" is fine. Then toss on the backerboard and secure. It's really the friction of being sandwiched between the mat and backer board that keeps the picture in place. If you're using premium paper, the picture hangs nice and straight. The tape keeps things aligned while you assemble, and ensures the picture doesn't shift after its assembled. It's that simple. I will admit that most of my frames are 10x12, however I'll be surprised if it doesn't work on 11x14 prints as well.

Regards,
-joel

claudermilk

TomaS wrote:

Thanks for the reply Angelo.

I am using the standard photo paper that comes from SM (EZprints). It is not heavyweight.

> Why not dry mount them yourself?
>Just buy a can of 3M spray adhesive at the art store. You apply a very light coat to the back of your print as well as the face of the backer-board; let dry a few minutes and then attach together

I bought a can of spray adhesive but have not tried it yet. My understanding of the true 'dry mount' technique is that it involves a machine that uses heat and pressure to bind the photo to the board.

I have been using foam core in the same size as the print, applying adhesive to it, and placing the print on it. Then add the matte and insert in frame.

I just read here of a way to do it without any adhesive. Not sure if that will work with standard photo paper.

I've been mounting using that basic hinging technique. It works fine for me so far & is more "archival" in that it's non-permanent.

I used to dry mount stuff when in class--it's permanent and requires a press and the proper materials (dry-mount tissue to go between the print the the backing board.

TomaS

Thanks for the info Joel and Chris. Maybe I have been trying too hard! Sounds like simplest (tape / no glue) method would be best. I will give it a try. Hoping SM gets some premium paper choices soon too.

Stustaff

TomaS wrote:

Thanks for the info Joel and Chris. Maybe I have been trying too hard! Sounds like simplest (tape / no glue) method would be best. I will give it a try. Hoping SM gets some premium paper choices soon too.

the advise above is sound, Its often the glues that cause the wrinkles!

schmoo

Sorry to rez a sort of old thread, but I've run into some mounting problems for photos of the 8x10 and 8x12 size.

I ordered my prints from Smugmug, and they are very slightly curved so the hinge technique that I used for smaller prints doesn't work on the larger ones. The photo still is bowed slightly even through the pressure of the mat board.

I see that there is a spray adhesive technique but I am worried that this is not exactly archival, and maybe not permanent. I'm not worried about glues wrinkling the paper because it's thick photo paper.

Any warnings/suggestions?

dragon300zx

Schmoo,

I would press the photo for a couple days between to flat surfaces (mat board) to flatten it out from shipment before I fram it. That should solve most of the problem. I use the hinging method with archival photo tape or I simply use archival photo corners and I have yet to have a problem.

schmoo

Dragon,

That is definitely worth a shot. Thanks!

Rhuarc

Something else that you could use that should not cause wrinkles is rubber cement. Put a thin layer on the board and let it dry first. Then apply the photo. By letting it dry first it doesn't wrinkle the paper, and the glue doesn't have a chance to soak through. If you really want it permanent mounted you apply the rubber cement to the part of the photo that needs attached, and let that dry also. Then once both surfaces are dry, you put them together. This creates a really tight bond.

TylerW

schmooo wrote:

Sorry to rez a sort of old thread, but I've run into some mounting problems for photos of the 8x10 and 8x12 size.

I ordered my prints from Smugmug, and they are very slightly curved so the hinge technique that I used for smaller prints doesn't work on the larger ones. The photo still is bowed slightly even through the pressure of the mat board.

I see that there is a spray adhesive technique but I am worried that this is not exactly archival, and maybe not permanent. I'm not worried about glues wrinkling the paper because it's thick photo paper.

Any warnings/suggestions?

I left my 8x12's to press between some heavy books for a day or two. that took nearly all of the curvature out of the prints. Once done, I mounted them to the back of a pre-cut matte from a framing shop using archival tape. Strip of tape at each upper corner and another across the top, at the center. then backed the print with another piece of acid free matte (no adhesion, the backing is the same size as the frame) and dropped the lot into the frame behind the glass. Closed it up and everything looked great.

Sam

Rhuarc wrote:

Something else that you could use that should not cause wrinkles is rubber cement. Put a thin layer on the board and let it dry first. Then apply the photo. By letting it dry first it doesn't wrinkle the paper, and the glue doesn't have a chance to soak through. If you really want it permanent mounted you apply the rubber cement to the part of the photo that needs attached, and let that dry also. Then once both surfaces are dry, you put them together. This creates a really tight bond.

I can not recomend strongly enough, do not use rubber glue. Elmer's, bubble gum, spit, or toe jam to mount any art work.

Sam

Sam

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One of the best ways to mount your photos is, as you already found, by using the basic hinge method. Make sure you use acid free archival foam core, window mats, and tape. I use acid free linen hinging tape. The correct materials will cost a little more than the more common materials used for arts, and crafts. If your mounting the photos for your own use that’s one thing, but if you are mounting the print for sale, I believe you / we have an obligation to use high quality acid free materials that will not adversely affect the print. <o:p></o:p>
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I don’t think you should have any trouble hinge mounting an 11” X 14” size print. <o:p></o:p>
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One question I have is there a specific reason to use an 11” X 14” print size? Most DLSR’s have a 3:2 aspect ratio. 10” X 15” would be the full size without any crop needed, and mounting material for that size is readily available off the shelf.<o:p></o:p>
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Example: print size, 10” X 15”. Foam core: 16” X 20” or 16” X 21”. Window mat: inside dimensions 9 ¾” X 14 ¾”. Outside 16” X 20”, or 16” X 21”.<o:p></o:p>
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16” X 20” is a standard size frame that can be purchased in any frame shop. 16” Xv 21” frames can be purchased from many online framing supply companies like “Frame Destination”. The only minor difference is that a 16” X 21” outside dimension will give you an equal boarder on all sides. The advantage for the 16” X 20 “ size is if you are selling the mounted, but unframed print, your client can purchase a variety of frames of that size right off the self. <o:p></o:p>
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Dry mounting, vacuum mounting, adhesive mounting, can in my opinion, be archival, but these are generally considered to be non-reversible. That is, the mounting material will not by it’s self adversely affect the artwork, but to remount / frame the artwork can be very difficult to impossible. <o:p></o:p>
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I think it can boil down to the value of the artwork. I would never permanently mount a $21,000.00 photo. (Yes! I just looked at a print in a Gallery that was priced at $21,000.00.) How ever if we are talking about say a 20” X 30” print valued at $200.00 to $400.00 that will last between 60 years and 150 years as mounted, I am not going to worry about a properly done permanent mount.<o:p></o:p>
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Sam<o:p></o:p>
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jdryan3

schmoo wrote:

I see that there is a spray adhesive technique but I am worried that this is not exactly archival, and maybe not permanent. I'm not worried about glues wrinkling the paper because it's thick photo paper.

Bump. Search is great on this forum! schmoo: what a great link!

schmoo

Glad that it was of some help!

I have two friends who are actually archivists and I believe they were the ones who give me the links to research.