Macro Technique Article
Several times on various forums I've been asked to share my techniques for shooting macro, and since I have a web site it only made sense to post it as an article: http://www.dalantech.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/83636/
C&C always welcome!
C&C always welcome!
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Wonderful read and examples. Thanks so much for sharing
Glad you liked it Cindy -thanks for the feedback!
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
http://photos.mikelanestudios.com/
I posted the link here, in the Technique forum, but since most people post macro shots in the Other Cool Shots forum I posted a link to this post. I was afraid that if I made the exact same post in two forums then one of them would get deleted. Sorry
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Thanks! I'll edit the post
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
I have just reread your article and I must have missed this comment the first time through. Does the 400xTi not work with an EOS strobe in High Speed Synch?
I can routinely shoot at 1/500th or 1/1000th of a sec when shooting in sunlight and using the speedlite for fill in Manual Mode or Av mode -IF - using an EOS strobe that supports High Speed Synch. The MR14ex, the MT24ex, the 580ex, and the 430ex are all capable of High Speed Synch.
1/200th of a second is the native synch speed limit of most of Canon's focal plane shutters, but High Speed Synch removes this limitation. It does this by emitting not one brief flash while the focal plane shutter is open fully, but a series of flashes over time that ensure flash coverage even if the shutter is never fully open across the entire frame, but merely a narrow strip of an opening (as is the case with focal plane shutters at higher speeds like 1/500th and above).
High Speed Synch is like using Focal Plane flash bulbs - once ignited they emitted light for over 1/10th of a second, to ensure that the slit of light allowed by the shutter covered the entire frame.
The EOS strobe in High Speed Synch emits a series of pulses of light while the shutter strip traverses the frame.
Give High Speed Synch a try, and I believe will find the ability to use higher speed shutter speeds in sunlight to be very useful in balancing ambient light versus sunlight. I almost always leave my strobes in High Speed Synch as I don't perceive much downside to doing this.
The incamera flash on the xTi will not do High SPeed Synch, as I know that I expect a 1/200th sec limitation when using the incamera flash on my 20D for fill light.
I am sure this 400xTi will do this, as my 20D does synch at 1/2500 sec as I just tested it with a MR14ex and High Seed Synch and ETTL with the 20D in Manual Mode. The exposure looked just fine.
Is there something here I have misunderstood about your technique?
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
You're right about the high speed sync mode -I just don't like the results. HSS pulses the flash rapidly so that at some point while the shutter is open there will be some flash light coming back to the sensor / film plane. Every time I've used it the critter in the frame looks like it got a sun burn from the flash Have you ever used HSS when shooting macro (or when shooting with the subject very close to the lens)? It's been a while since I've used HSS, and since the weather has been terrible lately I'll do some experimenting with it in the house. I nearly gave a dragonfly permanent genetic damage the last time I had my MT-24 in HSS mode, but I'll give it another try now that I have the MR-14.
But I'm not sure I'll use it in the field: there is the problem of getting a decent aperture (and some depth of field) when shooting in natural light. Bumping up the shutter speed just isn't an option most of the time -if anything I'd rather slow the shutter down and gain a stop, but then camera shake and the wind becomes an issue...
I may have to edit the article to explain why I don't use HSS. Even if I was shooting in manual mode and taking total control of the light I wouldn't use HSS. As I explained in the article: Once you get to a point where the image would be completely black if the flash doesn't fire then the flash burst rate becomes your shutter speed and it doesn't matter what the camera's shutter speed is set to...
Edit: After I posted that response I had to break out the Xti / MR-14 and play It's dark here, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to test HSS in Tv mode, but in manual mode the rig is nailing the exposure -very cool! I'm going to leave the flash in HSS mode for now and see how well it performs when I'm shooting with natural light as the primary light source. I may have to edit the article to include HSS as part of my technique -thanks Pathfinder!
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Give Manual mode a try too, if you are not using it, with ETTL on and High Speed SYnch on.
Try varying the shutter speed in manual mode without changing the aperture and see what your results are also.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Under exposure in Av and Tv. Manual seems fine so far, but I did notice an exposure shift going from 1/200 to 1/400 (HSS enabled). Not much time to experiment in Tv mode before I lost the sunlight
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Flash in Av and Tv, is used as fill, with the attempt to bring up the subject to match the ambient exposure in the background. SO, if your subject was in the shade perhaps, versus the background in the sunlight? That might contribute to underexposure. Since the exposure was correct in manual mode, the flash has enough light and does not just run out of juice so to speak. This must relate in some way to underlying design of EOS flash in Av and Tv modes.
Still not sure I can state why this is occurring for sure. I used to routinely shoot macro in Av, and I do not recall underexposure being an issue, unless, maybe, the subject was in the deep shade and the background was sunlit. That can easily create three to four stops difference in exposure. I agree that Manual mode does not seem to have this issue, because in manual mode the flash from the strobe is metered to properly expose the subject at the focused distance.
I will not have time to test this myself this week, unfortunately.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
What I'm hearing, on a couple of different forums, is that people were disappointed with the way that the 350D over exposed the highlights, so Canon set the Xti to under expose in full auto, Tv, and Av modes. As far as I'm concerned it looks good in manual mode, but I need to do some more experimenting. Setting the camera to 0 EV did make a difference today when shooting in Tv mode. I'll know for sure the next time I'm out shooting critters -I hate to make a solid determination from shooting test targets.
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Thank you for clarifying this issue. I am sure other folks may experience it also.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
It was driving me crazy...
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
That must have happened to me years ago then. wink
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.
Looking for tips on macro photography? Check out my Blog: No Cropping Zone.