Where's the Green Mode? 'New' 1D owner
troutstreaming
Registered Users Posts: 116 Major grins
Hi all,
Any 1D 'classic' owners out there want to share their thoughts on processing parameters, color spaces, and tone curves? I just acquired a used 1D to supplement my 20D and want to take best advantage of the bodies capabilities. The processing, color, and tone curve parameters seem to be an area that should be explored.
For personal shooting I shoot RAW's, but when helping out with a friend's photography event work the order of the day is normally JPG's for 4x6 to 8x10 prints. The events are usually horse shows - and can be indoors or out, [but for the indoor shows I expect the high iso requirements will keep me shooting with the 20D.] So processing would be for making prints with as little fuss as possible of horse's [large furry critters in browns, grays, and whites that are the normal focus of the composition] and riders [an equine accessory, usually but not always dressed in more muted tones.]
Thanks in advance for the advice/pointers/leads on other discussions etc.
Andy
Any 1D 'classic' owners out there want to share their thoughts on processing parameters, color spaces, and tone curves? I just acquired a used 1D to supplement my 20D and want to take best advantage of the bodies capabilities. The processing, color, and tone curve parameters seem to be an area that should be explored.
For personal shooting I shoot RAW's, but when helping out with a friend's photography event work the order of the day is normally JPG's for 4x6 to 8x10 prints. The events are usually horse shows - and can be indoors or out, [but for the indoor shows I expect the high iso requirements will keep me shooting with the 20D.] So processing would be for making prints with as little fuss as possible of horse's [large furry critters in browns, grays, and whites that are the normal focus of the composition] and riders [an equine accessory, usually but not always dressed in more muted tones.]
Thanks in advance for the advice/pointers/leads on other discussions etc.
Andy
www.troutstreaming.com
Outdoor and Sports Media
Outdoor and Sports Media
0
Comments
Thanks,
Chris
http://www.siphoto.com/?canon1D.inc
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
Thanks for the link to the sports illustrated settings.
This is probably the most useful thing that I have stumbled on:
http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/EOS_Digital.pdf
I also dug up about 6 custom tone curves, several to help reduce high ISO noise and a couple to deal with 'green' casts. I have not tried any of them in the camera yet.
I shot an indoor dog show on Sunday with the 1D and my 20D at 1600 ISO and the results were not bad. I certainly will not be cropping any of the images and if the dogs were underexposed or the handlers were wearing dark clothing heavy noise reared its head, but the difference between the photos from the 1D and the 20D are not especially obvious when viewed at web sizes. I have not tried printing anything from the event yet for the real test on its indoor capabilities. I shot RAW, so have not yet played with the jpg processing parameters.
Andy
Outdoor and Sports Media
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
I don't disagree with you! RAW is better. Take a look at the current issue of Photography Monthly (a UK mag)-- they actually compare RAW with a properly exposed jpeg-- the RAW really does have a slight edge even against the properly exposed jpeg. Against an improperly exposed jpeg, there's no contest. The RAW is much better. Even shooting with a whibal in studio with a meter and being able to get a PERFECT exposure, I shoot RAW. You just never know what the RAW converters of the future will offer, for one. And I find using the beta ACR, I rarely need a curves or levels tweak after converting a RAW-- while the jpegs still need one.
Portland, Oregon Photographer Pete Springer
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Also, in lower light situations always expose to the right and the need for Noise software is reduced significantly.
1D MarkIII, 16-35L, 28-70L, 70-200f2.8L, 50 f1.4, 300/f2.8L 1.4xL, 2XIIL (2)580EX, supporting cast of other stuff
dale@dhlewisphotography.com
http://dhlewisphotography.com
1D MarkIII, 16-35L, 28-70L, 70-200f2.8L, 50 f1.4, 300/f2.8L 1.4xL, 2XIIL (2)580EX, supporting cast of other stuff
dale@dhlewisphotography.com
http://dhlewisphotography.com
The SI suggestions seem to be somewhat out of date: no info for the 5D!
Thanks
http://skip-dechert.smugmug.com
Skip,
The Canon 5D is not really designed as a sports camera, so S.I. won't have a setup for it.
Some pretty good 5D setup info here:
http://jimdoty.com/Digital/5d_menu_settings/5d_menu_settings.html
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Ziggy
Thanks for that. Of course your right about the 5D not being intended for sports. It sure works well for landscape and people photography, however.
By the way, you should check out this link for an informative and very funny behind the scenes look at the Wild Utah workshop: http://schmoo.smugmug.com/Photography/324119
Schmoo is a very inciteful photographer, as is shown by these pictures which were taken with her point & shoot. Her wit is in fine form with the captions.
It's too soon to see much of the more formal photography produced by the 12 participants (including Marc and Andy), but I'd predict that it will be interesting for all types of photographers, not just landscapers.
Thank you for pointing me toward this opportunity. It exceeded my expectations by a large margin.
Skip
http://skip-dechert.smugmug.com
Yep, that should have been the good stuff. Lots of subtle tones and hues, and enough pixels to make really nice enlargements. The 5D and the 1Ds MKII were made for this type of photography. (Wild Utah, that is.)
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums