first HDR

waynedsargent

I am just trying this tech. For a first try its okay but I think I needed more exposures (only 3). Any advice?? 30d,tam28-75,tripod



btw the sunrise wasn't very colorful to begin with.

Skippy

waynedsargent wrote:

I am just trying this tech. For a first try its okay but I think I needed more exposures (only 3). Any advice?? 30d,tam28-75,tripod
btw the sunrise wasn't very colorful to begin with.

I'm trying to figure out HDR myself
To be honest that image is probably not a good one to try it on.... Skippy
.

LuckyBob

Skippy wrote:

I'm trying to figure out HDR myself
To be honest that image is probably not a good one to try it on.... Skippy
.

I humbly disagree . Shots like this cry out for more dynamic range, although with such extremes in shots like this one, it might be a tough subject to keep looking realistic for a first time HDR (which always seems to be my biggest hurdle to overcome). I'd try for a slightly darker sky (even if only at the top of the image) as it would be more dramatic, and the rocks at the ground definitely need an exposure to brighten them up to par. Good start, though. Keep plugging along!

cocasana

Which software? PS? Photomatix?

sirsloop

shoot more exposures, and make sure to get at least one shot thats way over exposed, and one thats way under exposed. You will be able to capture more shadow detail...

ex
http://dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=57232







likely overkill... but this was 17 exposures...

waynedsargent

could have been better
I dont think I had enough color in the sunrise to get this to be as good as it could have been. I used cs2 to process 3 frames (I think I will take more next time).

sirsloop

You can always adjust colors and bump up the blues and yellows to get the desired sky effect.

ericgtr

In my experience, you can't get enough shots, of course it requires that much more patience in PP but can be way worth it. There are lots of great tutorials out there but what I will usually do is get my "normal" fstop, shoot three in AEB (unless it's night which I go to manual) then bump it up or down a stop and shoot three more. You will usually end up with more than you need but it's better than too few.

waynedsargent

which do you use
for stopping down apeture or shutter?

ericgtr

Aperture Priority (or equivalent). I usually put the camera in Program mode just to get an fstop reading, then put it in Aperture Priority and use that reading as my base, remembering to be in manual focus. So say the typical reading is f/8, once you have your exposure bracketing set, you can snap 3, then change it to a higher or lower aperture (depending on light) and snap 3 more and so on.

Raz

This may also be of help:

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/neutral-density/neutral-density.htm

Raz

sirsloop

gradient tool works pretty nicely for smaller dyanmic range variations where you can edit the raw image 's expsure without excessive noise. You'll still need HDR merge to get the trees on the right exposed....

before:





after:

slapshot

ericgtr wrote:

Aperture Priority (or equivalent). I usually put the camera in Program mode just to get an fstop reading, then put it in Aperture Priority and use that reading as my base, remembering to be in manual focus. So say the typical reading is f/8, once you have your exposure bracketing set, you can snap 3, then change it to a higher or lower aperture (depending on light) and snap 3 more and so on.

From what I understand, you need to change your exposure via shutter speed, not aperture. If you change aperture, you change DOF. The DOF needs to be the same on every shot since you will be blending them. In other words, if you use the aperture to change exposure, you will be trying to blend photos with different areas of the scene in focus, resulting in a poor image.

ericgtr

slapshot wrote:

From what I understand, you need to change your exposure via shutter speed, not aperture. If you change aperture, you change DOF. The DOF needs to be the same on every shot since you will be blending them. In other words, if you use the aperture to change exposure, you will be trying to blend photos with different areas of the scene in focus, resulting in a poor image.

Correct you are, thanks. Here's another good resource for this http://hdr101.com/?page_id=4

waynedsargent

Here is attempt #2
I like this one a lot better Done through photomatix, 3 exposure.
-

waynedsargent

bueller
anyone C&C second try?