Weddings , Flash and natural comparison

Desmond

I have only done 4 weddings but what's good about the Nikon D80 is the programmable function button which I have set to "cancel flash " which makes it very easy to take a quick shot without flash and then one with flash as a comparison . The flash always seems to give nicer colours while the natural lighting gives better detail . These two were taken about half a second apart . I know the naturallighting shot could benefit from some "levels " adjustment but for the benefit of those learning about flash I left them as-is , no PP .
Besides helping other beginners to learn a bit I would still appreciate constructive criticism from more advanced photographers ...

gpphotos

first shot looks pretty under-exposed to me. i think i would have blown the background sky in favor of getting a bit more light on the bride.

sit

Check out Planet Neil for some great flash lighting tips. And Strobist too.

For your pictures, I'd probably want to frame it tighter and bounce the flash off something.

dogwood

gpphotos wrote:

i think i would have blown the background sky in favor of getting a bit more light on the bride.

I agree with this-- also a tighter crop. The surroundings don't really add to the photo, in my opinion.

Fill-flash can be fantastic for photos like this-- over on dpreview there were some tips on making fun-foam flash diffusor that looks a bit strange, but works wonders in situations like this. It only costs about five-dollars (US) total to make one yourself too. Search the lighting forum over there for "fun foam" and you'll find tons of info.

urbanaries

I shot a primarily backlit wedding location just last week. I approached it three different ways depending on the situation:

-Exaggerate the backlighting to produce a true silhouette (expose for the light source, fast shutter speed)
-Overcome the backlighting with flash (slow sync in Tv mode so the background doesn't seem so dark in comparison; this is the main issue with your flashed pic here)
-Change metering mode to Center weighted (might need tripod or monopod to get sharp images at slow shutter speed. Light source will overexpose but skin tones will be much more accurate.)

hope this helps
-lynne

Desmond

Ok , just for the record immediately after taking these two shots I zoomed in for a tighter crop but just thoght these two might be better for the discussion . I really appreciate the feedback and tips . Just a few questions/thoughts .... I have the SB800 flash and it comes with a diffuser which I leave off in larger areas because it does use a lot of energy with it on, though I have more than enough batteries spare if it will be better to use it ?
I didn't think the background was under exposed in the flash picture ? Is it really ?
"Urbanaries" , some interesting ideas . I looked through a disc of photos from a professonal photographer a while back and was surprised to see she had her 20D and 5D on "Tv" mode 1/125 the whole time .
How will this differ from "Av" or program mode set at "slow-synch".?
I had also thought that "matrix" metering would be more accurate [ not necessarily with backlighting though ] than centre weighted where a white dress is involved because it makes the white "18% grey" .
Keep the tips coming , I have much to learn !

Mike02

Desmond wrote:

I have only done 4 weddings but what's good about the Nikon D80 is the programmable function button which I have set to "cancel flash " which makes it very easy to take a quick shot without flash and then one with flash as a comparison . The flash always seems to give nicer colours while the natural lighting gives better detail . These two were taken about half a second apart . I know the naturallighting shot could benefit from some "levels " adjustment but for the benefit of those learning about flash I left them as-is , no PP .
Besides helping other beginners to learn a bit I would still appreciate constructive criticism from more advanced photographers ...

I think your photos would be alot better if you A: used a lightsphere
B: pointed your flash at the ceiling
or Start using prime lenses and telephotos for your bride and groom portraits.

All imho. =P

Mike02

Desmond wrote:

I have the SB800 flash and it comes with a diffuser, which I leave off in large areas because it uses a lot of energy, though I have more than enough batteries spare; will it will be better to use it?

I didn't think the background was under exposed in the flash picture ? Is it?

I looked through a disc of photos from a professional photographer, and was surprised to see she had her 20D and 5D on "Tv" mode 1/125 the whole time .
How will this differ from "Av" or program mode set at "slow-synch".?

I had also thought that "matrix" metering would be more accurate [ not necessarily with backlighting though ] than centre weighted.

Keep the tips coming , I have much to learn !

Afaik, the Sb-800 diffusion dome takes no extra power to use. Idk where you got your information.

It looks just about a stop or 2 underexposed.

Tv is the same as S mode on Nikon cameras, so it will be different from A, in that it controls the shutter speed of the camera manually, while A would just let you control the aperture.

Generally Matrix metering is very accurate, but if you're not getting vibrant skin tones, or you are getting a crappy exposure, there's a reason you have a rear LCD .

Then you should switch to spot, or centre weighted, your choice.

Yes, you do have alot to learn. (No offense intended :P)

Desmond

The diffusion dome spreads light in more directions and so wastes a bit more of it in the process of making it more even which is why I say it uses more power . These were just grab shots a minute before she walked out to the ceremony so primes would have been too much messing around but agree they would be better for the formals . I know exactly what Av and Tv and "s" mode stand for . What I am asking is why specifically Tv mode with slow synch ? Why not Av or P mode with slow-synch ?

ntt

Desmond wrote:

What I am asking is why specifically Tv mode with slow synch ? Why not Av or P mode with slow-synch ?

I'm guessing just to make sure that the shutter speed never gets so slow as to cause blur, and letting the camera use the flash and aperture to get the right exposure.

Desmond

I imagined that was the answer but I never make assumptions in case I am missing something really important that I should know . Sometimes it makes people think that I am dumb but rather that than make a stupid mistake and then they know it for sure