GREECE: Santorini
Santorini
Small church in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece. There are well over one hundred Greek Orthodox churches on this island with a population of 7,000. The village of Oia still retains some of the charm of the past, not completely ruined by the tourism trade.
A cab driver on the island of Thira, Santorini Greece, epitomizes the tough, proud but open and kind people of Greece.
Story and Photos by Thomas Hyde
© 2007, All Rights Reserved
I read a travelogue once where a woman said, "Ah Greece, it hurts me so."
I didn't understand at the time but I do now - the scenery, the people, the food, the lifestyle, the history everywhere you turn - Greece can take your breath away. Leaving can tear a hole in your heart, a longing that can only be satisfied by once again ambling down thousands-year-old marble mule trails that wind through the Greek countryside, your dusty feet and sandles tracing the same paths that were there before the time of Christ.
We traveled to three of the islands in the Cyclades - Santorini, Milos and Sifnos - each with its own charm. The group of islands named Santorini, with the island of Thira being the primary and most visited, are one of the most photographed and stunning islands in the world. Sitting at the juncture of two continental plates, Santorini is volcanic. Around 1500 B.C. the island exploded and the resulting tsunami may have led to the demise of the Minoan civilization on Crete and given rise to the legend of Atlantis. Today Santorini is a group of islands surrounding the 6-mile volcanic caldera now filled with the sea. Sheer cliffs of red, black and brown rise hundreds of feet out of the painfully rich blue waters of the Caldera.
We flew into the island from Athens, which afforded an incredible bird's eye view of the Greek Isles stretched across the Aegean. It helped that my wife and I were traveling with my brother and his family. In the early 1980's they spent five years living in Athens and teaching at the American School there. They return now to Greece with my nephews every few years and have visited more than 30 islands. They lament some of the changes as globalization begins to strip away the rich cultural heritage. For instance, the once common sight of old men playing backgammon at the ouzeri was not seen once by us on this two week trip.
The city of Fira perches on the edge of the caldera at Santorini Greece. The caldera of the ancient volcano stretches out welcoming the many cruise ships that come here. Tourism has ruined Fira. The islands population of 7,000 can swell to more than 80,000 as the largest cruise ships in the world, often two or three or more at a time, disgorge their thousands of passengers all at once to descend on the island.
Hordes of tourists descend on Santorini's main city of Fira and have all but ruined this ancient city. Nearby though, all is not lost. Further down the island the village of Oia perches on a spine of the island stretching toward its famous sunsets over the Aegean. Most of the village has been rebuilt after much of it was destroyed in a devastating 1956 earthquake.
The Spine of Oia. Homes of traditional cubic architecture, many with rounded rooftops, straddle one end of the island of Thira in Santorini, Greece. Traditional cave houses descend down the cliffs giving stunning views of the caldera. Many can be rented for reasonable charges although there are very expensive resorts interspersed throughout.
Village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Oia's white houses cling to the cliff face. We stayed in a wonderful traditional cave house at Delfini Studios (highly recommended).
The months of July and August are often the busiest and hottest. August winds can be strong. Many smart travelers come here in June or September, but the low humidity and patchy clouds at sunset make October the favorite month of photographers. While we spent five days in Santorini in early July, the crowds were minimal as the World Cup played out in living rooms throughout Europe. When we left Santorini for the island of Milos on a ferry, however, the world's two largest cruise ships sailed into the caldera and thousands of tourists rushed through the streets to take in as much as they could in the short time allotted.
That's the difference between a tourist and a traveler. The tourist grabs as many experiences as fast as they can, often taking pictures of people paparazzi style, and never really experiencing a place. Travelers, on the other hand, take their time, get to know people, talk to residents and ask to take their picture. Travelers gain a more rich experience through immersion. It can be difficult at times to be a traveler; to come out of your shell and cross barriers of culture, language and our own insecurities but the rewards are many as we realize we are all citizens of the world.
From my Amercian perspective, Greece is a wonderful place to start world travels. The people are very kind and open, although you must often make the first gesture to open communication. Crime is almost nonexistent and costs are reasonable if you stay a bit off the beaten path. Greece is an EU country so the exchange rate for U.S. dollars does put a dent in the wallet but this can be offset by staying in Class B or C properties.
Photography, for me, has also been a means to better experience a place. It helps me to "see" more and can be a bridge between cultures if approached well. I do, though, at times have to force myself to put down my camera.
That was especially true in Santorini. It is an incredibly magical and special place. I will do anything and everything to return to Greece as soon as I am able.
Roundhouse Dawn. Traditional houses restored in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Traditional house overloooking the caldera of Santorini in the Village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Travel thousands of miles, check your bags on the airplane, then have them carried through the village of Oia in Santorini, Greece, in the ancient way.
Exploring the labyrinth of old donkey trails and paths leading through the village of Oia can yield discoveries of old cave houses not yet converted or restored for tourist lodging.
A traditional cave house in the initial process of restoration in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
A good morning view from the balcony at our cave house in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece. Here is our perfect breakfast and perfect view of the caldera of Santorini. Greek coffee, orange juice, yogurt and honey, and a little pastry from the village bakery just down the street.
Early evening view from our traditional cave house in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
The sun rises onto the village of Oia.
Sunday morning on the narrow, marble "main street" in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Widows traditionally dress in black for seven years. Here, two yia yais (grandmothers) walk to Sunday morning services.
Morning stroll in the village of Oia.
Morning on the narrow main street in Oia.
Morning on the narrow main street in Oia.
View of the caldera from the main street of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Thousands upon thousands of stairs wind through a labyrinth of pathways in the village of Oia, Santorni, Greece.
A young boy looks out a window in village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Traditional fishiing boats in the small village of Ammoudhi, Santorini, Greece. The fishing village with several wonderful seafood tavernas is located below Oia down a winding switchback trail of 200 steps or so.
These fisherman worked in their boat just 30 feet from where we ate lunch in the outdoor taverna. Village of Ammoudhi, Santorini, Greece
Boats in the other small fishing village of Armeni located at the base of the village of Oia. Santorini, Greece.
Blue and white, blue and white. The most predominant colors in the Greek Isles.
Night descends on Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Most photographed. Sunset over the Aegean with the windmills of Santorini.
The Waiter's Closet. Village of Oia.
Sunset in Oia.
Night scene in Oia.
Moonrise over the Caldera in Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Dinner with a view. Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Night scene in Oia.
The moon and the cat. Village of Oia, Santorini, Greece. Good night.
Small church in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece. There are well over one hundred Greek Orthodox churches on this island with a population of 7,000. The village of Oia still retains some of the charm of the past, not completely ruined by the tourism trade.
A cab driver on the island of Thira, Santorini Greece, epitomizes the tough, proud but open and kind people of Greece.
Story and Photos by Thomas Hyde
© 2007, All Rights Reserved
I read a travelogue once where a woman said, "Ah Greece, it hurts me so."
I didn't understand at the time but I do now - the scenery, the people, the food, the lifestyle, the history everywhere you turn - Greece can take your breath away. Leaving can tear a hole in your heart, a longing that can only be satisfied by once again ambling down thousands-year-old marble mule trails that wind through the Greek countryside, your dusty feet and sandles tracing the same paths that were there before the time of Christ.
We traveled to three of the islands in the Cyclades - Santorini, Milos and Sifnos - each with its own charm. The group of islands named Santorini, with the island of Thira being the primary and most visited, are one of the most photographed and stunning islands in the world. Sitting at the juncture of two continental plates, Santorini is volcanic. Around 1500 B.C. the island exploded and the resulting tsunami may have led to the demise of the Minoan civilization on Crete and given rise to the legend of Atlantis. Today Santorini is a group of islands surrounding the 6-mile volcanic caldera now filled with the sea. Sheer cliffs of red, black and brown rise hundreds of feet out of the painfully rich blue waters of the Caldera.
We flew into the island from Athens, which afforded an incredible bird's eye view of the Greek Isles stretched across the Aegean. It helped that my wife and I were traveling with my brother and his family. In the early 1980's they spent five years living in Athens and teaching at the American School there. They return now to Greece with my nephews every few years and have visited more than 30 islands. They lament some of the changes as globalization begins to strip away the rich cultural heritage. For instance, the once common sight of old men playing backgammon at the ouzeri was not seen once by us on this two week trip.
The city of Fira perches on the edge of the caldera at Santorini Greece. The caldera of the ancient volcano stretches out welcoming the many cruise ships that come here. Tourism has ruined Fira. The islands population of 7,000 can swell to more than 80,000 as the largest cruise ships in the world, often two or three or more at a time, disgorge their thousands of passengers all at once to descend on the island.
Hordes of tourists descend on Santorini's main city of Fira and have all but ruined this ancient city. Nearby though, all is not lost. Further down the island the village of Oia perches on a spine of the island stretching toward its famous sunsets over the Aegean. Most of the village has been rebuilt after much of it was destroyed in a devastating 1956 earthquake.
The Spine of Oia. Homes of traditional cubic architecture, many with rounded rooftops, straddle one end of the island of Thira in Santorini, Greece. Traditional cave houses descend down the cliffs giving stunning views of the caldera. Many can be rented for reasonable charges although there are very expensive resorts interspersed throughout.
Village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Oia's white houses cling to the cliff face. We stayed in a wonderful traditional cave house at Delfini Studios (highly recommended).
The months of July and August are often the busiest and hottest. August winds can be strong. Many smart travelers come here in June or September, but the low humidity and patchy clouds at sunset make October the favorite month of photographers. While we spent five days in Santorini in early July, the crowds were minimal as the World Cup played out in living rooms throughout Europe. When we left Santorini for the island of Milos on a ferry, however, the world's two largest cruise ships sailed into the caldera and thousands of tourists rushed through the streets to take in as much as they could in the short time allotted.
That's the difference between a tourist and a traveler. The tourist grabs as many experiences as fast as they can, often taking pictures of people paparazzi style, and never really experiencing a place. Travelers, on the other hand, take their time, get to know people, talk to residents and ask to take their picture. Travelers gain a more rich experience through immersion. It can be difficult at times to be a traveler; to come out of your shell and cross barriers of culture, language and our own insecurities but the rewards are many as we realize we are all citizens of the world.
From my Amercian perspective, Greece is a wonderful place to start world travels. The people are very kind and open, although you must often make the first gesture to open communication. Crime is almost nonexistent and costs are reasonable if you stay a bit off the beaten path. Greece is an EU country so the exchange rate for U.S. dollars does put a dent in the wallet but this can be offset by staying in Class B or C properties.
Photography, for me, has also been a means to better experience a place. It helps me to "see" more and can be a bridge between cultures if approached well. I do, though, at times have to force myself to put down my camera.
That was especially true in Santorini. It is an incredibly magical and special place. I will do anything and everything to return to Greece as soon as I am able.
Roundhouse Dawn. Traditional houses restored in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Traditional house overloooking the caldera of Santorini in the Village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Travel thousands of miles, check your bags on the airplane, then have them carried through the village of Oia in Santorini, Greece, in the ancient way.
Exploring the labyrinth of old donkey trails and paths leading through the village of Oia can yield discoveries of old cave houses not yet converted or restored for tourist lodging.
A traditional cave house in the initial process of restoration in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
A good morning view from the balcony at our cave house in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece. Here is our perfect breakfast and perfect view of the caldera of Santorini. Greek coffee, orange juice, yogurt and honey, and a little pastry from the village bakery just down the street.
Early evening view from our traditional cave house in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
The sun rises onto the village of Oia.
Sunday morning on the narrow, marble "main street" in the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Widows traditionally dress in black for seven years. Here, two yia yais (grandmothers) walk to Sunday morning services.
Morning stroll in the village of Oia.
Morning on the narrow main street in Oia.
Morning on the narrow main street in Oia.
View of the caldera from the main street of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Thousands upon thousands of stairs wind through a labyrinth of pathways in the village of Oia, Santorni, Greece.
A young boy looks out a window in village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Traditional fishiing boats in the small village of Ammoudhi, Santorini, Greece. The fishing village with several wonderful seafood tavernas is located below Oia down a winding switchback trail of 200 steps or so.These fisherman worked in their boat just 30 feet from where we ate lunch in the outdoor taverna. Village of Ammoudhi, Santorini, Greece
Boats in the other small fishing village of Armeni located at the base of the village of Oia. Santorini, Greece.
Blue and white, blue and white. The most predominant colors in the Greek Isles.
Night descends on Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Most photographed. Sunset over the Aegean with the windmills of Santorini.
The Waiter's Closet. Village of Oia.
Sunset in Oia.
Night scene in Oia.
Moonrise over the Caldera in Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Dinner with a view. Oia, Santorini, Greece.
Night scene in Oia.
The moon and the cat. Village of Oia, Santorini, Greece. Good night.
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Don't think twice! The airfare was half our travel cost so once you get there it's not too bad. Greece was just incredible, I could spend a lifetime there. I'd just bought my first digital SLR (5d) when I went last year, I'm so glad I did.
Cheers, Sunita
Congratulations! I wish I had checked out that beach but I didn't. Looks like I'll have to go back!
Tom
Charlie
Thank You for sharing these, they are wonderful
ann
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Thanks for sharing!!
Aaron
Aaron Newman
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thanks for sharing .
Failure is not an option for me,
So i just keep pressing the shutter and trying again.
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:gun2
And you hit on one of the keys to traveling. Be a traveler and not a tourist--that observation can really make a difference between a good trip and great trip.
Thank you for the tour!
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We all have those stories of shots that could have been but weren't, often because we just shot the last frame on the roll or broke our rule about always leaving some space on the card just in case - like the nuns in full habit riding down the beach on a bright red moped, frocks flying in the wind, joy on their faces, a net with clams swinging off the back, but that's another story.
In Oia I went to church one Sunday morning. I just wanted to experience it. If you've never been in a Greek Orthodox church they are stunning with religious paintings, icons, brass and gold everywhere.
Before I went in, I took this photo from outside of a man reading morning prayer (at least I assume that is what he's doing).
As I entered, dressed in long pants and shirtsleeves out of respect, I dropped a donation in the box following the example of other patrons. An old woman dressed in black, her hair covered, looked me up and down, twice, then stepped aside and nodded slightly. I pointed to the camera over my shoulder and spread my hand across the scene in the church. Her vehement head shaking and finger wagging was unmistakable. No photos. I could have tried to explain I didn't have a flash but I doubt it would have made any difference and only have served to interrupt the reverent hush.
I went to the back and sat down. The service was long as several priests swung incense burners on chains, chanting and slowly walking around the gold altar at the front of the church. Behind the altar was a wall of paintings, obviously quite old. It turned out they were a series of panels and doors that could be moved.
An ancient priest dressed in white robes, unlike the others dressed all in black, went to one of these and opened it. He was very old, his long white hair sticking straight out off his head in all directions. Leaving the door open, he went into a small room. The morning sun shone through a stainglass window in the back of the room cutting colored beams through a haze of incense smoke. The ancient priest was backlit, his hair turned to golden flax, his face awash with golden light in a room full of gold chalices, crosses, five-foot high ornate candlesticks, and icons. Smoke curled slowly up from the incense burner swinging slowly from the chain still in his hand. Colors and reflections danced across his flowing white gown. It was breathtaking. I have never seen anything like it.
I looked down at my camera. I turned my head to the left and staring at me, as if sensing my temptation, was the woman who first greeted me. She had a stern look. I smiled, relaxed and sat back into the chair. It's the greatest photo I never took and the image is seared into my memory like few others. I have no regrets. Perhaps that's because respect is infinitely more important than "getting the shot." I passed the ugly American test.
Life is not measured in how many breaths you take, but in the moments that take your breath away.
1. I can't seem to stop thinking things like "wow" and "stunning" when looking through the pics.
2. I can't seem to shake the idea of travelling to Greece now.
Thank you.
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Did you get to the ancient archaeological site on Santorini?
If you did please post a few pics.
If not you have to go back. The dig is under a structure so a good tripod is a must. I can't remember the date but The city was buried during the eruption in 1400bc. The people all escaped the city in a hurry. Talk about a time warp, this place was deserted with almost every thing in place.
Loved your post!
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That's another reason to go back, it was closed for renovation when I was there. So many reasons!
Breathtaking pictures! Thanks for sharing them, and the church story too.
I love Greece. Great country with very nice and friendly people.
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