Advise on lens filters
Bazzauk
Registered Users Posts: 15 Big grins
Dear Forum
I am after some advice regarding UV, Cir Polarising and ND (0.6) Grad filters.
I recently purchased a Canon 70 – 200mm 2.8L lens and in the past I have experienced sky burn out when taking shots under certain conditions. I’m now looking to buy the aforementioned filters, but realise there are so many different brands on the market at vary prices from as little as £50 to the canon’s version at £150. I suspect that it’s probably a case of “you get what you pay for”…? Having never purchased or used filters before can anyone please be so kind as to offer some advice. All my lenses are 77mm, so at this stage I think I would prefer the screw in version rather than the slot in ones, but also advise on this would be greatly appreciated.
Cost isn’t a major issue although I don’t want to be spending £150 if the £70 range is equally as effective….
Many thanks in advance
Barry
I am after some advice regarding UV, Cir Polarising and ND (0.6) Grad filters.
I recently purchased a Canon 70 – 200mm 2.8L lens and in the past I have experienced sky burn out when taking shots under certain conditions. I’m now looking to buy the aforementioned filters, but realise there are so many different brands on the market at vary prices from as little as £50 to the canon’s version at £150. I suspect that it’s probably a case of “you get what you pay for”…? Having never purchased or used filters before can anyone please be so kind as to offer some advice. All my lenses are 77mm, so at this stage I think I would prefer the screw in version rather than the slot in ones, but also advise on this would be greatly appreciated.
Cost isn’t a major issue although I don’t want to be spending £150 if the £70 range is equally as effective….
Many thanks in advance
Barry
Regards
Bazza
:
Bazza
:0
Comments
not arguing with it. ive heard that before from many people, but Im yet to see real degredation from decent filters.
body: canon 400d
lenses: 50mm 1.8 & 10-22mm
Grant Shapiro Design & Photography
For a Circ Polarizer, I have Canon filters, but my 77mm filter has no front thread (for sticking the lens cap on) which sucks.
As for Grad ND filters, definitely buy yourself a filter holder (with a ring adapter for 77mm) and the necessary Grad ND square filters. Dont even consider screw-ins. You can use the filter holder on top of your screw-in filters so there is no need to have to buy screw-in filters only. Im using the Cokin Z-Pro series. The P-series should be fine for your 70-200 as well. Alternatively, get yourself a Hi-Tech set instead of the Cokin. I hear they're superior.
Also, I suggest you buy 2 Grad ND filters as I dont find 1 to be strong enough. Try test all the equipment at a shop before you purchase. Always a good idea.
Hope this has helped.
Cheers
Grant
body: canon 400d
lenses: 50mm 1.8 & 10-22mm
Grant Shapiro Design & Photography
Kind regards
Bazza
Yes, I have personal, demonstrable, repeatable experience with image degradation and miss-focus issues.
No, I will not share any images because I don't keep them since I only use my tests as a personal guide to give me a sense of particular situations and effects.
If you want to do your own tests, here is some of my procedure:
At night, find a spectral highlight at distance. (Street light, yard light, etc.) The distance required will vary with the focal length of the lens and the intent of the test, close focus vs infinity focus, etc. You will have to set the exposure manually to form an actual image of the highlight. Try not to have much "blooming" of the highlight, but you want it close to overexposure.
Allow autofocus and gauge mentally how much searching is required to "lock focus" with the highlight central in the image and offset at differing amounts. (Yes, you may have to change your focus mode and slected focus area.) Repeat as required with the filter on and filter off. Take a few snaps at each position to confirm or deny internal reflections caused by the filter. Often these are most noticeable by starting with the subject central in the image and then panning to the side, watching specifically for the effect.
Now switch to manual focus and check for secondary reflections at less than prime focus. This can be a problem with long lenses especially, but sometimes complicated zooms of any length will display some secondary reflections at differing focus points. The filter may compound the effect. Again, snaps at intervals will give you a better idea of the impact of the effect in use.
Now some daytime tests. Find a very high contrast scene, typically I use street signs. Stop signs and yield signs work pretty well. The subjects need not fill the scene, they are simply targets for scrutiny. Snap some shots with the subject in the center and off to the sides, with and without the filter. Review these images at 100% and 200%. Look especially for "ringing" in the areas around the high contrast subjects.
Digesting the results.
Understand that these simple tests are rather extreme, but real world examples, of the potential image degradation you may incur. All lesser contrast scenes will simply be reduced manifestations of the problems you can incur, but now you will know the "degree" of impact that your filters have on your lenses.
After performing tests like these on my own equipment, I can say that I was honestly surprised by some of the results.
For instance, the filter I use to protect my Canon 70-200mm, f2.8L has much more influence on images than the filter I use to protect my Sigma 18-50mm, f2.8 EX DC. The filter on the Canon lens is a much higher grade and expense, but now I know what circumstances I need to remove that filter to visibly improve the image, and I know what scenes are likely to be unaffected. I do not mean to imply that this situation is typical or applies to anyone else.
Most importantly, I have a real feel for risk vs reward because I took the time to test.
Have at it!
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Yes, there are two or more surfaces to reflect light, and one or more pieces of glass to introduce distortion and coloration. However, with good filters I have yet to see a detectable degradation.
The basic concept I keep in mind with filters is we carefully research and select the best lens we can after spending $1000 or more on a lens, why cheap out on a filter? I use B+W nad have seen that Heliopan, B+W, and Hoya multicoated are the most respected filters, in that order. Tiffen is generally considered junk, and unmentionalbe things are thought of the cheapies (Crystal Optics, etc.).
For B+W, you have a budget option in this vendor: http://hvstar.net/
So, for your 70-200, what I would use is what I've already purchsed:
UV - http://hvstar.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=33
CPL - http://hvstar.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=36
Yes, I'm suggesting the Kaesemann CPL, it's only a few dollars more & the top-of-the line version (better foils in addition to edge sealing). I have had good results with these--including some shots with the sun in them & little to no reflections.
http://www.chrislaudermilkphoto.com/