should i be converting to ezprints.icc before uploading...

belf

i've been doing this (obviously a short version):

- convert to ezprints.icc colorspace
- save as jpg
- upload to smugmug

i always converted to the ezprints colorspace because i thought that's the profile smugmug/ezprints was using for prints. although that's true, i think i now understand that the following has been happening:

- i convert to ezprints.icc colorspace
- i save as jpg
- i upload to smugmug
-- smugmug converts the photo to srgb
-- ezprints converts BACK to ezprints colorspace, print, ship, etc.

so should i be uploading photos in the srgb colorspace and ONLY use the ezprints.icc for soft proofing?

Andy

belf wrote:

i've been doing this (obviously a short version):

- convert to ezprints.icc colorspace
- save as jpg
- upload to smugmug

i always converted to the ezprints colorspace because i thought that's the profile smugmug/ezprints was using for prints. although that's true, i think i now understand that the following has been happening:

- i convert to ezprints.icc colorspace
- i save as jpg
- i upload to smugmug
-- smugmug converts the photo to srgb
-- ezprints converts BACK to ezprints colorspace, print, ship, etc.

so should i be uploading photos in the srgb colorspace and ONLY use the ezprints.icc for soft proofing?

Hi, don't convert, but use it for soft proofing
Here are some links:

http://www.smugmug.com/help/srgb-versus-adobe-rgb-1998 and to calibrate to our specs, and to soft-proof, in CS2.

http://www.smugmug.com/help/display-color
http://dgrin.smugmug.com/gallery/1123524

So it really should be:

work in photoshop
convert to sRGB
soft - proof
do NOT apply the ezprints icc profile
save as jpg
upload

belf

thanks andy

agunther

Not exactly refering to the question but might be useful:

I usually work with 16-bit ProPhotoRGB and then convert to sRGB 8-bit JPG (Adobe Engine, Intent Perceptual).
The ProPhotoRGB color space has a much wider Gamut range then the sRGB and even wider then Adobe RGB. It is perfect if you want to crank up saturation a bit without running into posterization (now its another question if you should do that or not, but I like to have the ability in my workflow).
When you conver it to sRGB with perceptual intend you can preserve the highly saturated looks even on prints.
You can try it out yourself. Convert your RAW file to Adobe RGB, crank up the saturation, convert to sRGB and then let PS show you the out of Gamut colors, then repeat the steps with ProPhotoRGB.
I also recommend to calibrate your screen.