Tell me something, is surfing easier or harder with a long board ??
It's easier to do tricks like "hang ten" which you see in the last photo, but sharp turns and cutting into the wave is much, much harder. You're on a giant log of fibreglass, basically. The old time surfers who rode balsa wood long boards pretty much just stood up on the wave. It took the advent of short boards to turn the sport into the acrobatic event it is today.
The man responsible for that short board revolution, would be none other then Dick Brewer ..
I rode for RB for 14 years .. along with Reno, Michael Ho, and Jerry Lopez ..
Ahhh yes .. those were the days.
Skippy .. get a long-board .. better known today as a *fun-board*, you'll enjoy it tons!
Just had to drop an image on here of me .. on a day at Pipe on the North Shore ..
Dan Merkel (a great friend) who shoots for Surfer Mag .. was on the beach and got a sequence
of this macker and I .. I didnt make this wave, but wooo hoo .. I love the North Shore!
I'm in Florida now .. ahem .. so err, not many great days. However .. The Pump House
down here does get good .. from time to time ..
Nice set of shots Blob .. got room for another *old timer* (master) in the next event? :ivar
hahaha .. thanks for a share of a glassy Cali morning .. hope you dont mind the shot of Pipe and me.
What about Roy Russel, Larry Bertelman. I meet Reno Aberila and Gerry Lopez before a bunch of coll guys. Anything in possible.
:clap Canon 40D and Canon 7D
Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS EF USM, Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS EF-S (USM), Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM, Canon 50mm 1.8, and Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Bounce
What about Roy Russel, Larry Bertelman. I meet Reno Aberila and Gerry Lopez before a bunch of coll guys. Anything in possible.
Rory and Larry are great friends .. I took Rory out to a *secret* spot once ..
He asked after paddlin back out after his first wave .. "is this place always this good?" lol
Larry spent a few nights in my studio .. we did a few shoots for LocoMotion ..
Reno is .. well .. just one a the greatest guys you'd ever wanna meet ..
Gerry went commercial .. lol.. gotta love the man tho .. he's livin the life!
Those were the best days of my life also .. Dick Brewer and the *gang* .. wow ..
Sooooo many stories .. Owl Chapman was quite the character as well
Comments
These look Great
Tell me something, is surfing easier or harder with a long board ??
.... Skippy
.
Skippy (Australia) - Moderator of "HOLY MACRO" and "OTHER COOL SHOTS"
ALBUM http://ozzieskip.smugmug.com/
:skippy Everyone has the right to be stupid, but some people just abuse the privilege :dgrin
It's easier to do tricks like "hang ten" which you see in the last photo, but sharp turns and cutting into the wave is much, much harder. You're on a giant log of fibreglass, basically. The old time surfers who rode balsa wood long boards pretty much just stood up on the wave. It took the advent of short boards to turn the sport into the acrobatic event it is today.
The man responsible for that short board revolution, would be none other then Dick Brewer ..
I rode for RB for 14 years .. along with Reno, Michael Ho, and Jerry Lopez ..
Ahhh yes .. those were the days.
Skippy .. get a long-board .. better known today as a *fun-board*, you'll enjoy it tons!
Just had to drop an image on here of me .. on a day at Pipe on the North Shore ..
Dan Merkel (a great friend) who shoots for Surfer Mag .. was on the beach and got a sequence
of this macker and I .. I didnt make this wave, but wooo hoo .. I love the North Shore!
I'm in Florida now .. ahem .. so err, not many great days. However .. The Pump House
down here does get good .. from time to time ..
Nice set of shots Blob .. got room for another *old timer* (master) in the next event? :ivar
hahaha .. thanks for a share of a glassy Cali morning .. hope you dont mind the shot of Pipe and me.
Looks like you were shooting from a pier?
Kudos from SoCal
Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS EF USM, Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS EF-S (USM), Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM, Canon 50mm 1.8, and Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Bounce
dome.http://moreno24.smugmug.com/
- Ansel Adams.
He asked after paddlin back out after his first wave .. "is this place always this good?" lol
Larry spent a few nights in my studio .. we did a few shoots for LocoMotion ..
Reno is .. well .. just one a the greatest guys you'd ever wanna meet ..
Gerry went commercial .. lol.. gotta love the man tho .. he's livin the life!
Those were the best days of my life also .. Dick Brewer and the *gang* .. wow ..
Sooooo many stories .. Owl Chapman was quite the character as well