Need Olympus FC-01 Macro Flash Controller Help

Stu Engelman

Hello Everyone,

I have an Olympus Evolt E-500 camera, and am thinking about getting the Olympus FC-01 Macro Flash Controller and Olympus FS-RF11 Ring Flash Head to use for macro photography.

My questions are about the controller unit:

(1) Does the controller integrate with the camera's exposure meter (I want to shoot using manual exposure mode, having the meter take into account the flash unit's expected augmentation to ambiant light value)?

(2) If the answer to (1) is yes, does the controller have a distance meter to take into account flash brightness falloff as focal distance increases?

(3) If the answer to (2) is no, how do I calculate compensation to EV?

Thanks, Stu Engelman

ziggy53

Stu Engelman wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I have an Olympus Evolt E-500 camera, and am thinking about getting the Olympus FC-01 Macro Flash Controller and Olympus FS-RF11 Ring Flash Head to use for macro photography.

My questions are about the controller unit:

(1) Does the controller integrate with the camera's exposure meter (I want to shoot using manual exposure mode, having the meter take into account the flash unit's expected augmentation to ambiant light value)?

(2) If the answer to (1) is yes, does the controller have a distance meter to take into account flash brightness falloff as focal distance increases?

(3) If the answer to (2) is no, how do I calculate compensation to EV?

Thanks, Stu Engelman

Hi Stu,

I don't have this and I've never seen it, but from Olympus documentation, the FC-01 Controller is a TTL device. That means it does indeed use the camera's exposure system to help determine exposure.

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_digital_acc.asp?val1=1&accessory=49

Since it does take readings from the exposure system, it doesn't need to do any distance calculations, because the exposure system will throttle the flash to accomodate for variables like subject to distance. If it is done correctly, you should not need to calculate anything.

Are you sure you need such a system? We have folks here who do nicely with lots of simpler flash systems.

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=25164
http://www.digitalgrin.com/showthread.php?t=15634

Stu Engelman

Hi Ziggy,

Thanks for the information.

I took a look at the flash setup you referred me to, and this isn't really what I want. I definitely want a ring flash, as I want to minimize shadows on the subject.

Assuming the controller really does send data to the camera's light metering system, and the latter factors the flash luminance into it's calculations, I'm still unclear about the camera-to-subject distance question in the absence of the controller having a distance meter. I can certainly see how the light metering system could reduce required light contribution from ISO/aperture/speed based on an assumed luminance output from the ring flash. The problem is that effective luminance contribution to the shot will depend on camera-subject distance, being dampened I believe according to an inverse square law (i.e., double the focal distance, and luminance contribution from the ring flash on the subject falls by 75%).

Based on the above, I'm wondering whether the metering system bases the assumed contribution from the ring flash on a "standard focal distance" (and of course flash strength, if this is adjustable). If so, then a calcualted adjustment to overall exposure would seem to be necessary whenever a "non-standard" focal distance is utilized (e.g., the shutter speed could be used as the "balancing item").

Stu

ziggy53

Stu,

If it is simply TTL, it makes no adjustments according to subject to distance.

A fairly good description of TTL flash metering is here:

http://www.moosepeterson.com/techtips/flash.html

Nikon i-TTL, Canon E-TTL II, Pentax P-TTL and Minolta D-TTL are all "supposed" to take focus distance into consideration assuming that you have a camera and lens and flash which all comply with each system. In the best case scenario, those systems basically used the focus distance to provide either all flash output calculations, or the distance information is a major determinant in flash output calculations.

I haven't found any information which leads me to believe that Olympus TTL incorporates distance information into "any" of its systems. (It may do that, but Olympus just doesn't say whether or not.)

Stu Engelman

Hi Ziggy,

Thanks. I think I see how the metering system could handle the distance question now. It could take the absolute light output per the controller setting, as well as where the focal plane was set, and then calculate how much flash output actually falls on the subject. Total metering would then be diminished by this luminance before computing necessary input from ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.

An excellent answer!

Stu

Stu Engelman

Hi Ziggy,

I read your Moose article, and took a look at the online user's manual for the Olympus FC-01 Flash Controller. At this point, I'm not sure whether I'm becoming more educated or more confused. :cry

Basically, I want to set all my non-flash settings manually (focus, ISO/aperture/speed), and then have the flash controller determine an optimal burst of light to force what would otherwise be an underexposure to be a good metering (without, of course, changing the exposure parameters). The issue here is that I am sometimes not getting enough light, even with the lamps that came with my light box, to avoid ISO and/or chroma noise (the problem of course being that the tiny camera-to-subject distance forces a small aperture for DOF reasons, resulting in stress on the ISO/speed end of things).

Would it be correct to say that if I set my camera's ISO/aperture/speed manually, and then set the flash controller to perform automatic TTL metering with pre-flash, that the controller will determine the strength/duration for the flash to force the combined ambiant/flash luminance to satisfy the overall metering imposed by my manual camera settings?

Thanks, Stu

ziggy53

Stu Engelman wrote:

Hi Ziggy,

I read your Moose article, and took a look at the online user's manual for the Olympus FC-01 Flash Controller. At this point, I'm not sure whether I'm becoming more educated or more confused. :cry

Basically, I want to set all my non-flash settings manually (focus, ISO/aperture/speed), and then have the flash controller determine an optimal burst of light to force what would otherwise be an underexposure to be a good metering (without, of course, changing the exposure parameters). The issue here is that I am sometimes not getting enough light, even with the lamps that came with my light box, to avoid ISO and/or chroma noise (the problem of course being that the tiny camera-to-subject distance forces a small aperture for DOF reasons, resulting in stress on the ISO/speed end of things).

Would it be correct to say that if I set my camera's ISO/aperture/speed manually, and then set the flash controller to perform automatic TTL metering with pre-flash, that the controller will determine the strength/duration for the flash to force the combined ambiant/flash luminance to satisfy the overall metering imposed by my manual camera settings?

Thanks, Stu

Not quite. The flash is a contributing light, and the TTL flash exposure is in addition to the ambient. If you set the camera to overexpose via the ambient light, the flash will still go off and add even more light to the exposure.

On the other hand, most manufacturers calibrate the flash to underexpose when it is the only source of light.

All of this means that you, the photographer, still have control, and need to exercise choice regarding the use of both ambient and flash exposure.

If you want complete automation you have to rely upon the "Program" mode of operation, which I don't recommend because you loose control of too much of the camera control. (You trust someone else's programmed judgement of both ambient and flash exposure.)

Stu Engelman

ziggy53 wrote:

Not quite. The flash is a contributing light, and the TTL flash exposure is in addition to the ambient. If you set the camera to overexpose via the ambient light, the flash will still go off and add even more light to the exposure.

On the other hand, most manufacturers calibrate the flash to underexpose when it is the only source of light.

All of this means that you, the photographer, still have control, and need to exercise choice regarding the use of both ambient and flash exposure.

If you want complete automation you have to rely upon the "Program" mode of operation, which I don't recommend because you loose control of too much of the camera control. (You trust someone else's programmed judgement of both ambient and flash exposure.)

I must admit this is all very confusing. It sounds like you are saying that in manual exposure mode for the camera, and TTL mode for the flash, that the camera will simply honor whatever exposure settings (ISO/aperture/shutter) I set, and then add the flash on top of that.

Basically, what I'm trying to do is manually set my aperture based on DOF requirements, ISO at 100 (to avert grain), and shutter speed at some fast setting like 1/100 (to avert CN), and then have the flash automatically provide enough light so that this combo of settings results in a clean histogram (little or no clipping).

The question is: is there any way to have the camera/controller setup do this for me, or do I have to calculate the shutter speed as a balancing item given the anticipated strength of the flash on the subject?

Thanks, Stu

ziggy53

Stu,

In order to gain photographic control over the light, you would first determine the amount of light that the ambient light contributes to the shot, whether it is to be the dominant source or subordinate, or you may want to quench ambient light's contribution altogether, and then you calculate and set the flash contribution according to your wishes for the exposure.

It is not possible for the camera or its exposure systems to understand your needs for each shooting situation. I doubt that you will find a system which automates the process in the manner you describe.

I think once you try the process and discover how to control ambient and flash lighting, it will become much more obvious what is required for each shooting situation.

ziggy53

I should add, and I hope this doesn't add to confusion, that you can use the camera's Exposure Compensation (EC) and Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) to help adjust the ratio of amibient and flash lighting.

Again, once you start using your system it should be more apparent how all this ties together.

Stu Engelman

ziggy53 wrote:

Stu,

In order to gain photographic control over the light, you would first determine the amount of light that the ambient light contributes to the shot, whether it is to be the dominant source or subordinate, or you may want to quench ambient light's contribution altogether, and then you calculate and set the flash contribution according to your wishes for the exposure.

It is not possible for the camera or its exposure systems to understand your needs for each shooting situation. I doubt that you will find a system which automates the process in the manner you describe.

I think once you try the process and discover how to control ambient and flash lighting, it will become much more obvious what is required for each shooting situation.

Hello Again,

It sounds like what you're essentially saying is that if I wish to intentionally underexpose my macro shot to limit noise (i.e., generate what would be alot of left hand clipping in the absence of the flash), then I must set my flash parameters (GN, duration) manually via the controller to get a proper histogram, and the controller settings can only be determined
experimentally (based on the combination of aperture, ISO, and subject distance).

Is the above correct?
Thanks, Stu

ziggy53

Stu Engelman wrote:

Hello Again,

It sounds like what you're essentially saying is that if I wish to intentionally underexpose my macro shot to limit noise (i.e., generate what would be alot of left hand clipping in the absence of the flash), then I must set my flash parameters (GN, duration) manually via the controller to get a proper histogram, and the controller settings can only be determined
experimentally (based on the combination of aperture, ISO, and subject distance).

Is the above correct?
Thanks, Stu

I'm not sure I understand your question.

Underexposure usually increases noise as (or if) you compensate in post-processing.

Manual control of the ambient exposure is usually a benefit, and I usually intentionally suppress the ambient light contribution, using more of the light from the flash for the exposure. If I'm using an E-TTL II flash (Canon), I allow the camera and flash to automatically calculate flash exposure, moderating it using FEC.

Manual flash exposure is also an option, and yes, I do choose the flash power experimentally. It only takes a short while to get "tuned in" to the right settings in a given situation.

Stu Engelman

ziggy53 wrote:

I'm not sure I understand your question.

Underexposure usually increases noise as (or if) you compensate in post-processing.

Manual control of the ambient exposure is usually a benefit, and I usually intentionally suppress the ambient light contribution, using more of the light from the flash for the exposure. If I'm using an E-TTL II flash (Canon), I allow the camera and flash to automatically calculate flash exposure, moderating it using FEC.

Manual flash exposure is also an option, and yes, I do choose the flash power experimentally. It only takes a short while to get "tuned in" to the right settings in a given situation.

Hi Ziggy,

I think the key to what I'm getting at is your comment "If I'm using an E-TTL II flash (Canon), I allow the camera and flash to automatically calculate flash exposure, moderating it using FEC".

Basically, what I want to do is set ISO to 100 to minimize luminance noise, shutter to something like 1/100 to minimize chroma noise, and aperture per DOF requirements. This would all be done independently of metering needs. Then, after the preceding is done (in camera manual exposure mode), I would desire that the flash system add in the required light burst (choosing GN and flash duration on it's own) to generate a clean histogram (not too much clipping, as long as dynamic range within capacity of sensor). Let's call what is in this paragraph the "ideal scenario".

To reiterate from a previous post, my issue is inadequate light. Proper metering currently requires too much light contribution from high ISO and/or slow shutter speed. I want to clamp down on these two factors, and compensate via ring flash. I have no specific desire to "suppress ambiant light" per se; I simply want a low ISO and fast shutter speed to avert noise, and wish to use ring flash add the required luminance back in.

In a previous post you said that this level of automation is not possible, but your comment quoted above seems to say the opposite (at least if FEC is not a major factor in getting a balanced exposure).

I guess at this point the question is: is the "ideal scenario" truly unachievable, and if so, what specific (achievable) process recipe comes closest to it. I have no problem with doing calcs if they are necessary. The major thing I want to avoid is "subjective iteration" and guesswork in setting camera and flash controls.

Stu

ziggy53

With a guide number of 26 feet, @ISO 100, there may be situations where ISO 100 may not suffice. It just depends on the particular lens, the distance to subject, the aperture used, etc.

As to whether the flash TTL works as intended, I just can't say. I couldn't find even a single example of that particular flash head and controller. Since you will be spending between $500-$600USD, depending on accessories, I would hope that you get some service and utility from the system.

I'm afraid you will have to purchase the flash, controller and FR-1 and test it with your application to determine suitability.

Stu Engelman

ziggy53 wrote:

With a guide number of 26 feet, @ISO 100, there may be situations where ISO 100 may not suffice. It just depends on the particular lens, the distance to subject, the aperture used, etc.

As to whether the flash TTL works as intended, I just can't say. I couldn't find even a single example of that particular flash head and controller. Since you will be spending between $500-$600USD, depending on accessories, I would hope that you get some service and utility from the system.

I'm afraid you will have to purchase the flash, controller and FR-1 and test it with your application to determine suitability.

Hi Ziggy,

Flash strength will not be an issue, as I'm only going to use it for macro shots at 6-12 inches away.

I think I'm going to have to call Olympus support and ask about their flash controller operation and capabilities. As mentioned, I did inspect their PDF user's guide for the controller online, but it provided very little in terms of documentation of advanced capabilities (it basically just had phrases like "push this button to do this, etc.).

Thanks again for all your help, Stu