sports shooting help
i'm just learning how to shoot ultimate frisbee. i've played the sport for years but am now trying to snap pictures while i'm on the sidelines. at least i can get up close and personal to the game.
i'm slowly getting the knack of predicting the action on the field. here are some shots i got yesterday at a tournament. the white balance seems like it's a bit off and the pics look a touch hazy. i'm wondering what might have caused this.
any other critiques and/or suggestions welcomed.
http://pepperell.smugmug.com/gallery/3016861
i'm slowly getting the knack of predicting the action on the field. here are some shots i got yesterday at a tournament. the white balance seems like it's a bit off and the pics look a touch hazy. i'm wondering what might have caused this.
any other critiques and/or suggestions welcomed.
http://pepperell.smugmug.com/gallery/3016861
0
Comments
Is there any reason why you're shooting ISO 400 in full sun? Were these post-processed?
This is a thread about softball, but I think it will apply:
http://dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=60009
You also might do some searches for football.
In general, a good sports photo share some elements -- faces in focus, clean backgrounds (DOF), quality images (exposure) and good editing.
This captures some of the elements:
It woudl be better if the crop was tighter. Was this one taken later in the day?
thanks for the feedback. yeah, i realized the ISO was set high only once i had uploaded them. i was basically just grabbing shots when i had a sec on the sideline.
i can trim them up later for better emphasis on the subject, my main concern is the overexposure and hazy cast over some of the images. unfortunately most of the pictures were taken in the hour or two with the sun at it's highest. i can bump the ISO down lower next time too.
you can see the haziness i'm refering to when comparing this picture (not taken by me) to one of mine:
not mine
and mine:
I'm no expert--but I tend to shoot sports at around 400 ISO--even on bright sunny days.
With sports, I usually have the lens open as far as possible to reduce the DOF and isolate the player I'm focusing on--and since I don't have any f2.8 telephoto or zooms, That usually means about f5.6 or more out past 300mm.
Trying to freeze the action, I usually try to keep the shutter speed at 1/1250 - 1600 or faster -- which also seems to help when shooting handheld with a longer lens.
What I generally try and do is push the speed up another notch more than the meter reading and to try and underexpose the shot by just a little bit--expecially if people/players are wearing a lot of white/light colors. I figure I can then pull it back with just a second or two of photoshop tweaking.
Shooting tighter (rather than cropping in pp) has several advantages--including generally helping to get a shorter DOF--which will help focus the viewers attention on the subject--rather than the background. But in a sport like ultimate, you'll have to stay on your toes to keep up with the action.
Best of luck
Will
________________________
www.willspix.smugmug.com
Not sure what your shutter speed was but it looked a touch low. Which lens are you using? Also much tighter crops.
Shots from the back without faces are no good, they are just snapshots unless you know the people involved.
If I can help, please email me, I would be happy to help any way I can...
Joe
http://www.sportsshooter.com/members.html?id=2850