Well the method certainly doesn't work for everyone.
I like it because I find it easier to not have my finger pushed 1/2 way on the shutter, I tend to fire off shots when I don't want to. This way I only push the shutter when I want to shoot.
I like it because it is like having AI Servo and One shot all in one. Servo as long as the button is pushed, let up on the button and you have one shot.
I like it because it allows me to focus, lock on the subject, reframe a shot and then push the shutter to take the shot (Think baseball batter, or play at a base).
I like it because it retains manual focus capability on an autofocus body. You can quickly tweak a focus if you want manually with no switching or moving additional buttons.
I like it because I can actually focus, let up, move to a more desireable spot for metering and hold the shutter half way, reframe and shoot. Use CF4 - 1 for this trick.
Again it is not for everyone, many sports shooters prefer it, but I know a few who don't.
Yes, yes...now that I've had some practice, I'm right there with you. I like the ability to set focus and recompose. It is also helpful in random fast action that stay in the same plane of focus like kite surfing. Once I nail the focus on my target and then the target moves out of the spot focus point, I can still get the shot and not have to worry about exactly tracking on the subject.
It's also helpful for those accidental finger twitches in AI Focus when trying to recompose with shutter button. I've accidentally lost focus when I've unintentionally let up on the shutter trying to maintain the focus point and recomposing.
40D, 400 f5.6L, 70-200 f2.8L, 50 f1.8, Tam 17-50 f2.8
www.siphoto.com should be of some help. Sports Iilustrated's suggested
settings (of which * focusing is one). Be sure to compare the settings with
your manual so you become familiar with the changes.
Something else that I think is paramount is that you understand Depth Of
Field.
Let's say you're using your trusty 300 f/2.8 wide open. The subject is 200'
away. Everything from 197' to 202' should be in focus. If the center point focus
is the horse's chest, there is a very good chance the rider will be out of focus.
It's worse if you are shooting with a 500 (something like 199-201' should be
in focus at f4). For a 100mm lens, it's like 170-240' at f4. You get the idea.
If you can shift the focus point while composing the shot, you can compensate
for DOF problems introduced by your aperture setting.
So before you make any change, be sure you've got the fundamentals
of DOF down.
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
Yes, yes...now that I've had some practice, I'm right there with you. I like the ability to set focus and recompose. It is also helpful in random fast action that stay in the same plane of focus like kite surfing. Once I nail the focus on my target and then the target moves out of the spot focus point, I can still get the shot and not have to worry about exactly tracking on the subject.
It's also helpful for those accidental finger twitches in AI Focus when trying to recompose with shutter button. I've accidentally lost focus when I've unintentionally let up on the shutter trying to maintain the focus point and recomposing.
Good for you SDJames, glad you are finding this useful. It really does make shooting fast action easier and more versatile once you've practiced a bit with it.
Keepers
Unless you have a 1 series body, a 70-80% keeper rate (~90% if your technique is really good) on fast moving subjects is all you're going to get. Especially if they're moving straight towards you. Even the pro bodies can't get 100%; however, the extra punch really helps. That's why the pro bodies cost so much... Setting the focus with the * button (via custom function) helps for some people, it just depends on what works for you.
Comments
Yes, yes...now that I've had some practice, I'm right there with you. I like the ability to set focus and recompose. It is also helpful in random fast action that stay in the same plane of focus like kite surfing. Once I nail the focus on my target and then the target moves out of the spot focus point, I can still get the shot and not have to worry about exactly tracking on the subject.
It's also helpful for those accidental finger twitches in AI Focus when trying to recompose with shutter button. I've accidentally lost focus when I've unintentionally let up on the shutter trying to maintain the focus point and recomposing.
settings (of which * focusing is one). Be sure to compare the settings with
your manual so you become familiar with the changes.
Something else that I think is paramount is that you understand Depth Of
Field.
Let's say you're using your trusty 300 f/2.8 wide open. The subject is 200'
away. Everything from 197' to 202' should be in focus. If the center point focus
is the horse's chest, there is a very good chance the rider will be out of focus.
It's worse if you are shooting with a 500 (something like 199-201' should be
in focus at f4). For a 100mm lens, it's like 170-240' at f4. You get the idea.
If you can shift the focus point while composing the shot, you can compensate
for DOF problems introduced by your aperture setting.
So before you make any change, be sure you've got the fundamentals
of DOF down.
Good for you SDJames, glad you are finding this useful. It really does make shooting fast action easier and more versatile once you've practiced a bit with it.
Canon Gear
Unless you have a 1 series body, a 70-80% keeper rate (~90% if your technique is really good) on fast moving subjects is all you're going to get. Especially if they're moving straight towards you. Even the pro bodies can't get 100%; however, the extra punch really helps. That's why the pro bodies cost so much... Setting the focus with the * button (via custom function) helps for some people, it just depends on what works for you.
www.photohound.smugmug.com