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removal of dust

asamuelasamuel Registered Users Posts: 451 Major grins
edited August 25, 2007 in Finishing School
I have some shots that have had a long shutter speed. This has resulted in a lot of dust that is visible in the shots ( this is usually not hte case).

Is the skin retouching tutorial the best way to remove this? or are there better. please point me in the right direction as I am very keen to save the images.

which incidently have over 200 U.F.Os present.

thanks:lust
where's the cheese at?

http://www.samuelbedford.com

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    Artur C.Artur C. Registered Users Posts: 38 Big grins
    edited August 19, 2007
    asamuel wrote:
    I have some shots that have had a long shutter speed. This has resulted in a lot of dust that is visible in the shots ( this is usually not hte case).

    Is the skin retouching tutorial the best way to remove this? or are there better. please point me in the right direction as I am very keen to save the images.

    which incidently have over 200 U.F.Os present.

    thanksiloveyou.gif

    Hi Samuel,

    That's strange, as shutter speed generally doesn't affect dust bunnies showing up rather it's the aparature setting... usually around f11 is the worst (for me). The best and safest way to clean a dirty sensor, especially if it isn't bad is using an air blower (NOT COMPRESSED AIR CAN)... giotto makes a bulb rocket which sprays clean air onto the sensor while in sensor clean mode and will usually take most the dust off. If not there are other "touch" solutions available such as the arctic butterfly system were you actually touch a statically charged brush to your sensor (not the actual sensor, but the filter that covers it). Hope this helps, it's best to do a web search on the subject as there are literally hundreds of articles covering this subject. Good Luck.
    Art
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    D.RodgersD.Rodgers Registered Users Posts: 212 Major grins
    edited August 19, 2007
    asamuel wrote:
    I have some shots that have had a long shutter speed. This has resulted in a lot of dust that is visible in the shots ( this is usually not hte case).

    Is the skin retouching tutorial the best way to remove this? or are there better. please point me in the right direction as I am very keen to save the images.

    which incidently have over 200 U.F.Os present.

    thanksiloveyou.gif

    This has happened to me once ,I changed my lens and a gust of wind deposited a lot of nasties on my sensor.

    I would recommend using the clone tool in PS to remove them I know it sounds like a lot of work but hey you want to keep your image right.
    First off I never clone at 100% opacity it will leave dark spots ,so I work at 75% and double click if it needs it.
    When doing sky's with the same color you don't even need to use the alt button to choose the clone reference.
    If theres any artifacts that are noticeable after go behind with the bandaid tool it'll repair them better then re-cloning.
    Then follow up with a noise reduction, because it'll smooth it over.
    Good luck hope this is of some help.
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    RichardRichard Administrators, Vanilla Admin Posts: 19,937 moderator
    edited August 20, 2007
    asamuel wrote:
    I have some shots that have had a long shutter speed. This has resulted in a lot of dust that is visible in the shots ( this is usually not hte case).

    Is the skin retouching tutorial the best way to remove this? or are there better. please point me in the right direction as I am very keen to save the images.

    which incidently have over 200 U.F.Os present.

    thanksiloveyou.gif

    I generally use the spot healing brush tool to fix dust problems. Set the zoom to 100% and make the brush radius slightly larger than the spot. One click is almost always enough.

    When I get sufficiently tired of fixing the spots, I use the Copperhill cleaning method on the sensor. It's scary the first time you do it, but really no big deal once you get the hang of it. Works like a charm.

    Regards,
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    asamuelasamuel Registered Users Posts: 451 Major grins
    edited August 20, 2007
    yes I will get into sensor cleaning. but it was impossible with no access to any amterials as I was on the road for 6months. Now I'm just going to put the camera in for a service. and then keep on top of the sensor in the future.

    the healing techniques are much appreciated, but I thought they may be a bit to abbraisive. I'll get down with it.
    where's the cheese at?

    http://www.samuelbedford.com
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    asamuelasamuel Registered Users Posts: 451 Major grins
    edited August 20, 2007
    I have realised this thread is in the wrong space. It has been a long time since using the site. If the moderator wants to move it to finishing school, please do? sorry for the mix up.
    where's the cheese at?

    http://www.samuelbedford.com
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    BinaryFxBinaryFx Registered Users Posts: 707 Major grins
    edited August 20, 2007
    Asamuel, a link to an average example of the issue would help, there are many methods! Is it white dust on dark backgrounds, black dust on light etc?


    Sincerely,

    Stephen Marsh.
    http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/
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    asamuelasamuel Registered Users Posts: 451 Major grins
    edited August 20, 2007
    its black marks on a light background. symmetrical small droplets and a few fuzzy stunted little hair type things. I have trouble with my upstream currently so I am sorry that I cannot provide an example.
    where's the cheese at?

    http://www.samuelbedford.com
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    GJMPhotoGJMPhoto Registered Users Posts: 372 Major grins
    edited August 25, 2007
    A good technique depending on the background
    asamuel wrote:
    its black marks on a light background. symmetrical small droplets and a few fuzzy stunted little hair type things. I have trouble with my upstream currently so I am sorry that I cannot provide an example.

    There is a really fast technique, but it depends on how solid the background is. If it's a solid background (skin works too):

    1) Lasso the offending area (lots of dust spots)
    2) Copy the selection to a new layer (CTRL-J)
    3) Set the blend mode of the new layer to lighten (since you're getting rid of dark spots - you'd set it to darken if you're getting rid of light spots)
    4) Type 'V' to access the move tool
    5) With the copied layer active, click the arrow keys a couple of times up and to one side to offset the new layer...voila! You can also blur it if it's appropriate.

    It's a lot easier than spotting everything with a healing or cloning tool provided the texture of the background is fairly consistent.

    - Gary.
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