Quick question about flash sync

Davidoff

I was wondering, the maximum flash sync speed with my D70s is 1/500th with the built in flash, but would I be able to set it faster with an external flash like the sb-600 ? :scratch

ziggy53

Davidoff wrote:

I was wondering, the maximum flash sync speed with my D70s is 1/500th with the built in flash, but would I be able to set it faster with an external flash like the sb-600 ?

The short answer is "yes" but it has a catch.

The [SIZE=-1]Nikon [/SIZE]SB-600[SIZE=-1] supports FP/High-Speed Sync mode, but the D70s apparently does not, so you can't use FP/HSS like you can on the Nikon D2 series.

The trick is pretty simple and explained here:

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/05/hacking-your-cameras-sync-speed-pt-1.html


[/SIZE]

Davidoff

So..... from what I understood, you can get 1/1000 at full power, 1/2000 at half power and 1/4000 at a quarter of the power ? Is this right ? He only mentions a pc cord, but does this work in commander mode ?

ziggy53

Davidoff wrote:

So..... from what I understood, you can get 1/1000 at full power, 1/2000 at half power and 1/4000 at a quarter of the power ? Is this right ? He only mentions a pc cord, but does this work in commander mode ?

I don't think so. If I understand how the trick works it doesn't have to be a Nikon flash at all, in fact any simple flash with a manual mode should work. I think the effect was first noticed with simple Vivitar flashes on the Nikon D70. The point is to avoid the camera even knowing about the flash and just using the center pin to trigger.

It does look like the Nikon D80 and D200 have FP/HSS mode in addition to the D2 professional cameras.

Maybe it's time for an upgrade?

Davidoff

lol no funds, no funds :P I don't even have the flash unit yet, I was just asking. In that case you would need to have a cord and tape it anyway, right? Also, does the sb-600 have a fully manual mode ?

ziggy53

Davidoff wrote:

lol no funds, no funds :P I don't even have the flash unit yet, I was just asking. In that case you would need to have a cord and tape it anyway, right? Also, does the sb-600 have a fully manual mode ?

Last question first, yes, I believe the Nikon SB-600 has a manual mode.

As far as the taping pins goes, there are several ways to accomplish that electrical isolation, but I'll let you you research that for yourself.

I think you can also just purchase a simple flash that only has manual modes or an auto flash with manual modes like the Vivitar 285HV or Sunpak 383. Of those two, the Sunpak is a little more versatile and better built, but I have 3 - Vivitar 285s and I like them pretty well.

BTW, in your post above, I think the reference to "1/1000 at full power, 1/2000 at half power and 1/4000 at a quarter of the power" I believe simply has to do with the duration of the flash being shorter at reduced power output, and matching that duration roughly with the Nikon electronic shutter speed.

What are planning to do with the camera and very fast shutter sync?

Davidoff

I'd like to be able to reduce the shadows on people's faces significantly, and also, I think it'd be nice if I could get better colors in the background, for example, darke foliage and skies. Motion blur is sometimes a problem too in very bright sunlight, a quicker flash sync would freeze motion even more, right ?

Davidoff

Sorry, double post

ziggy53

Davidoff wrote:

I'd like to be able to reduce the shadows on people's faces significantly, and also, I think it'd be nice if I could get better colors in the background, for example, darke foliage and skies. ...

You can reduce the impact of hard shadows from sunlight on faces, but become more dependant on the light from the flash(es).

It is almost always better to control the sunlight by choosing a better location, open shade for instance, or using a sun diffuser above the subjects if possible. The sunlight can never be fully subdued through short exposure alone without compromising other aspects of the shot.

It is true that the background will get darker if you do not (or the camera does not) compensate with the aperture.

Davidoff wrote:

... Motion blur is sometimes a problem too in very bright sunlight, a quicker flash sync would freeze motion even more, right ?

If you shoot in bright sunlight, you can already control motion blur with a combination of ISO and shutter speed. Motion blur is much more of a problem with low light, as I'm sure you're aware.

A faster flash sync is usually used to control the impact (and ratio) of sunlight versus flash. If you don't have control of the directionality of the sunlight and the flash you can still produce an ugly image.

At the extreme, you can use multiple flash to provide extremely short duration and overpower the sunlight at close proximity:

http://www.naturescapes.net/022004/jb0204.htm
http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/hummer/humguide1.asp

BTW, I am an unspoken fan of yours. You have tremendous creativity and imagination, and the ability to see the unique and extraordinary in the world around you. I encourage everyone to review your work as displayed in these forums (and at your gallery listed in your signature) and I encourage you to keep posting and sharing with us.

Davidoff

ziggy53 wrote:

You can reduce the impact of hard shadows from sunlight on faces, but become more dependant on the light from the flash(es).

It is almost always better to control the sunlight by choosing a better location, open shade for instance, or using a sun diffuser above the subjects if possible. The sunlight can never be fully subdued through short exposure alone without compromising other aspects of the shot.

It is true that the background will get darker if you do not (or the camera does not) compensate with the aperture.



If you shoot in bright sunlight, you can already control motion blur with a combination of ISO and shutter speed. Motion blur is much more of a problem with low light, as I'm sure you're aware.

A faster flash sync is usually used to control the impact (and ratio) of sunlight versus flash. If you don't have control of the directionality of the sunlight and the flash you can still produce an ugly image.

At the extreme, you can use multiple flash to provide extremely short duration and overpower the sunlight at close proximity:

http://www.naturescapes.net/022004/jb0204.htm
http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/hummer/humguide1.asp

BTW, I am an unspoken fan of yours. You have tremendous creativity and imagination, and the ability to see the unique and extraordinary in the world around you. I encourage everyone to review your work as displayed in these forums (and at your gallery listed in your signature) and I encourage you to keep posting and sharing with us.

Before anything else, thanks a lot Ziggy, really appreciate your comment.

Would setting a higher iso freeze motion better with the same shutter speed ? I know a different setting would be a better option, but sometimes you just can't... so, with the D70s and the sb-600 what would be the maximum speed with full power without tricking the camera ? 1/640 ? Oh, and those links are amazing.

ziggy53

Davidoff wrote:

Would setting a higher iso freeze motion better with the same shutter speed ? ...

No, but daylight usually allows the maximum shutter speed. The Nikon D70/D70s have a minimum ISO of 200 so strong sunlight can actually be an occasional problem even at the maximum shutter speed of 1/8000th.

Using flash on any camera with a focal plane shutter is a problem, but the D70s, with the 1/500th flash sync, is already better than most other dSLRs.

If you can push that to 1/1000th without too much trouble using the tricks at "Strobist", I think you have a winning combination.

Davidoff wrote:

... so, with the D70s and the sb-600 what would be the maximum speed with full power without tricking the camera ? 1/640 ? ...

Officially, the camera is rated to flash sync at 1/500th, so that's all you can depend on. Some folks are getting a little faster, so you just have to try your camera to see if you got lucky.

DirtRacin

Nothing like bringing this post back to the top

I also have a D70 and I use a Norman 400B, this camera will sync with the flash way past 1/1000th, it's too bad Nikon did away with a cheaper camera that will sync past 1/250th

jdryan3

DirtRacin wrote:

I also have a D70 and I use a Norman 400B, this camera will sync with the flash way past 1/1000th, it's too bad Nikon did away with a cheaper camera that will sync past 1/250th

How do you like the 400B?