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Mexico DF- Chapultepec y Coyoacan
Justiceiro
Registered Users Posts: 1,177 Major grins
I spent the day wandering around Mexico City today, and had the chance to visit the Bosque de Chapultepec, as well as the Sunday market at Coyoacan.
Monument to the Ninos Herois
In September of 1847, the Mexican-American war was entering its final phase as the United States Army aproached the Mexican Capitol. the castle of Chapultepec, the Mexican Military academy, was the last major fortress outside the city not in American hands (at the time, the geography of the city was quite different). As United States Marines stormed the castle and breached the walls, the commandant ordered the Mexican forces to abandon the stronghold, and retreat over the causeways across lake Texcoco into the city itself (the lake has since disappeared, but at the time Mexico City was surrounded by water). A substantial number of the forces defending the castle/military academy were the schools young cadets, and six of them refused the order to retreat, leaping from the heights of the castle to their deaths wrapped in the Mexican flag, so that it would not be captured. At the entrance to the park is a monument to these Niños Héroes, with six marble columns representing the cadets.
Detail of the central figure of the monument
Climbing up a steep hill, one comes to the castle itself, now a history museum, and totally surrounded by trees (hence no photos of the castle itself, its impossible to photograph.)
Statue of a Cadet
From the castle, which later served as the royal residence for the ill-fated french puppet, emporer Maximillian, one has spectacular views of the city, if the pollution isn't too bad (it usually is).
Avenida Revolucion viewed from Chapultepec
After Chapultepec, I hopped on the Metro (awesome, goes everywhere, relatively secure, and costs $0.20 per ride) to Coyoacan, the "place of the wolves"
This is now a district of the DF (Distrito Federal) but it was originally a small village, well outside Tenochtitlan/Mexico City. It's had a number of famous residents, Hernan Cortes lived here, as well as Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky (the house, where he was murdered, is a few blocks from the Market).
On saturdays and sundays there is a large and festive market. It's supposed to be great for handicrafts, but actually it quite sucks. I much prefer the more central markets. Most of the stuff here is a bit more kitschy, but virtually all the customers are locals. I did manage to pick up a "Blue Demon" wrestler mask for my nephew. Before I send it to him, I'll go as a luchador for halloween.
Dolls for sale in the Coyoacan market
In the middle of the square I saw a curandera (I think that is what they are called). A sort of shamanistic healer (almost always a woman) who will invoke Mary, Joseph, Saint Antony, and, of course, Huitzilopochtli, with no cotradiction at all, to heal you of all your ills. It looks a tad Disney, but the locals take it quite seriously, all the participants are Mexican, and aren't doing it on a lark at all. Folks from the DF are rather sophisticated, but recent immigrants and visitors from the countryside dress more traditionally and still hold to a lot of the old folkways.
La Curandera
Incense is used to make the invocations to the saints and gods more effective.
In addition to the Curandera there are also dancers, male and female.
Some Campesinos out for a stroll in their Sunday finery
Convento de Churubusco
After Coyoacan, I strolled on over to the Convent of Churubusco. This was the last strong point encountered by US forces before Chapultepec. General Anaya holed up in the convent, defended primarily by the Saint Patrick's Battalion, comprised of Irish Catholic deserters from the American Army (Los San Patricios). General Anaya defended the convent until hsi forces had completely run out of supplies, and surrendered in August to General Twiggs. When General Twiggs demanded the surrender of the garrison's ammunition, General Anaya replied "If we had any ammunition, you would not be here."
After the battle, the bulk of the San Patricios were executed for treason.
Convento de Santa Maria de Churubusco
Mexican Nuns
Well, the rest of the week is work. so it looks like this is all I will have from this trip. Enjoy!
Monument to the Ninos Herois
In September of 1847, the Mexican-American war was entering its final phase as the United States Army aproached the Mexican Capitol. the castle of Chapultepec, the Mexican Military academy, was the last major fortress outside the city not in American hands (at the time, the geography of the city was quite different). As United States Marines stormed the castle and breached the walls, the commandant ordered the Mexican forces to abandon the stronghold, and retreat over the causeways across lake Texcoco into the city itself (the lake has since disappeared, but at the time Mexico City was surrounded by water). A substantial number of the forces defending the castle/military academy were the schools young cadets, and six of them refused the order to retreat, leaping from the heights of the castle to their deaths wrapped in the Mexican flag, so that it would not be captured. At the entrance to the park is a monument to these Niños Héroes, with six marble columns representing the cadets.
Detail of the central figure of the monument
Climbing up a steep hill, one comes to the castle itself, now a history museum, and totally surrounded by trees (hence no photos of the castle itself, its impossible to photograph.)
Statue of a Cadet
From the castle, which later served as the royal residence for the ill-fated french puppet, emporer Maximillian, one has spectacular views of the city, if the pollution isn't too bad (it usually is).
Avenida Revolucion viewed from Chapultepec
After Chapultepec, I hopped on the Metro (awesome, goes everywhere, relatively secure, and costs $0.20 per ride) to Coyoacan, the "place of the wolves"
This is now a district of the DF (Distrito Federal) but it was originally a small village, well outside Tenochtitlan/Mexico City. It's had a number of famous residents, Hernan Cortes lived here, as well as Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky (the house, where he was murdered, is a few blocks from the Market).
On saturdays and sundays there is a large and festive market. It's supposed to be great for handicrafts, but actually it quite sucks. I much prefer the more central markets. Most of the stuff here is a bit more kitschy, but virtually all the customers are locals. I did manage to pick up a "Blue Demon" wrestler mask for my nephew. Before I send it to him, I'll go as a luchador for halloween.
Dolls for sale in the Coyoacan market
In the middle of the square I saw a curandera (I think that is what they are called). A sort of shamanistic healer (almost always a woman) who will invoke Mary, Joseph, Saint Antony, and, of course, Huitzilopochtli, with no cotradiction at all, to heal you of all your ills. It looks a tad Disney, but the locals take it quite seriously, all the participants are Mexican, and aren't doing it on a lark at all. Folks from the DF are rather sophisticated, but recent immigrants and visitors from the countryside dress more traditionally and still hold to a lot of the old folkways.
La Curandera
Incense is used to make the invocations to the saints and gods more effective.
In addition to the Curandera there are also dancers, male and female.
Some Campesinos out for a stroll in their Sunday finery
Convento de Churubusco
After Coyoacan, I strolled on over to the Convent of Churubusco. This was the last strong point encountered by US forces before Chapultepec. General Anaya holed up in the convent, defended primarily by the Saint Patrick's Battalion, comprised of Irish Catholic deserters from the American Army (Los San Patricios). General Anaya defended the convent until hsi forces had completely run out of supplies, and surrendered in August to General Twiggs. When General Twiggs demanded the surrender of the garrison's ammunition, General Anaya replied "If we had any ammunition, you would not be here."
After the battle, the bulk of the San Patricios were executed for treason.
Convento de Santa Maria de Churubusco
Mexican Nuns
Well, the rest of the week is work. so it looks like this is all I will have from this trip. Enjoy!
Cave ab homine unius libri
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Thanks again for a marvelously informative post and a glimpse into a culture that is relatively new to me. You certainly do your homework!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography