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Reducing pixilation / noise

UlfsparreUlfsparre Registered Users Posts: 1 Beginner grinner
edited September 8, 2007 in Finishing School
I have an image that I need to print 20x30" and it is coming back very pixilated. Is there anything I can do in Photoshop that would alleviate some of this? Such as reduce noise? Then I would need to know if I should save it at a certain size and dpi, or just leave it at the size/dpi I shot it ati. (I shoot with a Nikon D70s on superfine. Not sure what my asa was on this shot.) THANKS! :dunno

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    LAB.ratLAB.rat Registered Users Posts: 65 Big grins
    edited September 7, 2007
    You might try
    www.redfieldplugins.com/filterPerfectum.htm
    www.powerretouche.com/Antialias_plugin_introduction.htm

    My limited experience with the second one is that it's not too impressive, but it helps some.

    You also need to enlarge it with proper software, like Genuine Fractals, Alien Skin Blow Up, ...
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    Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited September 7, 2007
    Ulfsparre wrote:
    I have an image that I need to print 20x30" and it is coming back very pixilated. Is there anything I can do in Photoshop that would alleviate some of this? Such as reduce noise? Then I would need to know if I should save it at a certain size and dpi, or just leave it at the size/dpi I shot it ati. (I shoot with a Nikon D70s on superfine. Not sure what my asa was on this shot.) THANKS! ne_nau.gif

    How about posting pic with the exif data.....there are great instuctions at OnOne software on the Genuine Fractals print Pro version ??? (not sure where they are now..), also their trial version will allow like 20 saveds files ready for printing.....

    I take it that superfine is the best jpg quality that nikon has.....I suggest that you may want to start using NEF to shootin and also keep the iso as low as possible.....

    FRom here you may want to look into noise ninja, noise ware and I know I am missing a couple....but that is a start.....after you do all your work in Photoshop (that is everything except sharpening with unsharp mask) then download the trial of GF printpro and take your file into it and uprez to 20 x 30......OOOOOOH I left out a step..... while in PS go to the image size area and make sure constrain proportions is ticked and the other 2 boxes are not ( resampple image and scale styles)...that way you are not adding or taking away any pixels then change the dpi from 72 to 300....this will bring the print size to approx 8x10 inches...now it should be ready to take into GF Print Pro and you can do a 1 step up rez to 20 x 30 inches and look at it before saving.....with GF Print Pro if you don't save it won't count against your total amount to use.....

    The reason I say to change the dpi to say 300 is that most people do not under stand viewing distance and think a 20 x 30inch or even a billboard (20 x 30 feet) sized print will look fantastic a few inches from their nose....Ohhh not so.....I ahve cleints go to an Art Gallery and look at oil paintings close up and then start backing away until the picture looks great and then estimate how far their are from the painting to get an idea of how their picture will look.....then I found it easiest to just uprez in GF and give it to them in approx 8 x 10 quality (300dpi) at what ever size I am selling to them.....this has proiven to be the easiewst for me.






    good luck
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

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    CatOneCatOne Registered Users Posts: 957 Major grins
    edited September 7, 2007
    LAB.rat wrote:
    You might try
    www.redfieldplugins.com/filterPerfectum.htm
    www.powerretouche.com/Antialias_plugin_introduction.htm

    My limited experience with the second one is that it's not too impressive, but it helps some.

    You also need to enlarge it with proper software, like Genuine Fractals, Alien Skin Blow Up, ...

    If you upres in Photoshop you can do just as good a job as with Genuine Fractals. Upsize 10% at a time in steps using Bicubic smoother... works very well.

    How big is the original photo?

    I'd say for a 20x30" image you'd want it at 180 DPI minimum... 3600 pixels by 4800 pixels at least. 240 DPI might be better but that's pushing how much you have to upres.
    My Landscape Galleries
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    bhambham Registered Users Posts: 1,303 Major grins
    edited September 8, 2007
    Where is the pixelization, everywhere, background, on main subjects, etc. I have played with some old scanned photos that tend to show pixels, in areas of the photo that didn't have significant detail. I copied the large background area to another layer and did a median filter on it and it smoothed it out considerablely.

    I think if you could post the photo, we dgrinners could give better advice.
    "A photo is like a hamburger. You can get one from McDonalds for $1, one from Chili's for $5, or one from Ruth's Chris for $15. You usually get what you pay for, but don't expect a Ruth's Chris burger at a McDonalds price, if you want that, go cook it yourself." - me
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    LAB.ratLAB.rat Registered Users Posts: 65 Big grins
    edited September 8, 2007
    CatOne wrote:
    If you upres in Photoshop you can do just as good a job as with Genuine Fractals. Upsize 10% at a time in steps using Bicubic smoother... works very well.
    If that was true, I don't think these programs would still sell to professionals, except for the ease of use (which is of course enough by itself).

    Also, the technique you mention has been made redundant in CS2 and is now built in or unnecessary (as mentioned by Deke McClelland in Total Training CS2, and by others). Of course, your tests might inform you differently...
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