30D 1/3-stop ISOs
I have read elsewhere some think that the 1/3rd ISO stops in the 30D are "fake" and best not to be used. Is there anyone here that can shed a little light on this issue. Is there a problem in using the 1/3ISO stops. One that we would actually notice? It appears that this is in reference to RAW files. So doesn't apply to jpeg shooters.
Regards Ralph
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http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
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Thanks,
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Thanks Ziggy,
but I thought there might be someone more eminantly qualified than I to give a definitive answer to this. It drew quite a response on another forum I sometimes visit but didn't participate in. I feel more at "home " here and trust "the family" to come up with the answers. When it comes to "Noise" I find sometimes I have an unacceptable level of noise at 200ISO and yet at other times have quite an acceptable level at 800ISO so I figure it happens with a mind of its own so I just reduce the noise in ACR4.2 using the tricks there. But it amazes me what some people want to bag cameras out on, especially when it makes such little difference in reality. But my question still stands does anyone avoid the 1/3 incriments and only use the 100's settings? And if so , why?
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
As far as noise, the usual problem is underexposure at any ISO. Always expose correctly or even a little to the right, whatever the highlights allow.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
http://tinyurl.com/2677tb
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
Links to pertinent sites and information are fine, but thanks for asking.
I guess the first premise we are asked to accept is that IRIS is somehow correctly interpreting the RAW data, and other RAW converters are not correct. Since there is no independent corroboration of that fact (that I could find), I have to suspect the entire premise. Are we to believe that the IRIS software is the "only" software to correctly interpret the RAW data? Mightn't it be more plausible the other way around?
Anyway, it really is easy to test. Shoot a flat, slightly non-uniformly lit wall, or even the sky. Shoot it at full f stops and at 1/3rd f stops in RAW. If the premise is true that the 1/3rd f stops are interpreted as is suggested in the thread, and the way that the original poster is saying they are, there should be artifacts similar to JPG compression artifacts in the tonal gradations, jumps in tonality, if you will. It should only happen with the 1/3rd stop settings.
If you don't see those artifacts on just those settings, the assertion is probably wrong. More importantly, it will prove to you whether it matters at all. If you cannot "see" the problem, it doesn't matter even if it might be measurable.
Does that make sense?
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
I set 1/3rd ISO first day after purchase and it's still there.
Sometimes is good to not read too much
XTi, G9, 16-35/2.8L, 100-300USM, 70-200/4L, 19-35, 580EX II, CP-E3, 500/8 ...
DSC-R1, HFL-F32X ... ; AG-DVX100B and stuff ... (I like this 10 years old signature :^)
Now there is a pearle of wisdom, one can put in ones pocket. Very true and sometimes too much info IS a bad thing take for example the many different ways of Editing photos. Now thats one area you can read too much.
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
I'll read this time
XTi, G9, 16-35/2.8L, 100-300USM, 70-200/4L, 19-35, 580EX II, CP-E3, 500/8 ...
DSC-R1, HFL-F32X ... ; AG-DVX100B and stuff ... (I like this 10 years old signature :^)
I don't "Think" anything in this case. Just asking the question hoping for a more definitive answer. It is presented there as a weakness of the Canon 30D, seems anything to knock the "big guy" but I am of an open mind, if there is something in it I am interested to know.
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
I'm JPEG shooter.
Next time ask your question properly, thanks.
XTi, G9, 16-35/2.8L, 100-300USM, 70-200/4L, 19-35, 580EX II, CP-E3, 500/8 ...
DSC-R1, HFL-F32X ... ; AG-DVX100B and stuff ... (I like this 10 years old signature :^)
Oh well EXCUSE Me! I omitted to mention RAW. May be unimportant to you but not to a lot of us.. I will alter my original post to include a reference to RAW
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
Lot of you ?
Do you mean you and Ziggy ?
I rest the case
XTi, G9, 16-35/2.8L, 100-300USM, 70-200/4L, 19-35, 580EX II, CP-E3, 500/8 ...
DSC-R1, HFL-F32X ... ; AG-DVX100B and stuff ... (I like this 10 years old signature :^)
Yeah yeah what ever! Go pick an argument with someone else, I am not biting.
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/
Thanks.
I am not sure why the scope of the problem, if there is one, would not affect JPG images as well. All images produced by a modern digital camera start as a RAW capture. If anything, lossy compression storage technology like JPG should make the problem worse or more obvious.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/pdfs/understanding_digitalrawcapture.pdf
I hope this doesn't inflame anyone, that isn't my intention. It is after all a discussion forum. I have been an exclusive JPEG shooter until recently and 99.9% of my photos so far are JPG's but in the last month I have come to understand and realise the advantage of RAW files and the controls in post editing. So I am far from "Pushing" RAW but out to learn all I can now I have started down the RAW track.
http://ozphotos.smugmug.com/