FB - Like Shooting in a Cave!
I swear, they must have been using candles up there! It was so dark, I dont think I got a single photo I really liked. I'll share a few, just to contribute - but I am not very happy......
Slow shutter speeds lead to poor, motion blur shots. I was at ISO 3200, but still around 1/320 @f4. Hard to stop anything there. We're back home next week and at least I know those lights.
Z
Slow shutter speeds lead to poor, motion blur shots. I was at ISO 3200, but still around 1/320 @f4. Hard to stop anything there. We're back home next week and at least I know those lights.
Z
It is the purpose of life that each of us strives to become actually what he is potentially. We should be obsessed with stretching towards that goal through the world we inhabit.
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Z,
Good shots, I like the action & crops.
Good job on the WB
ISO 3200 - 320 @ f/4 --- I feel your pain...
I'd feel lucky to have that much light
Question:
Is it my eyes, or is there maybe a back-focus issue?
Looking at your pics, say the coach, notice his hands/belt loops are tack sharp, but his face is soft.
Throw, baby, throw! = Look at the grass & player behind the QB, they look tack sharp, the QB looks soft.
Run, baby, run! = Look at #55, just behind the focal plane of the RB. 55 is sharp, RB soft.
Nowhere to go: = Look at the helmet of the player to the very right of frame, tack sharp, QB soft.
No agenda here, just wondering if it's just my eyes
Hmmm, now I'd better go back and look at some of my pics too
I dont think it's back focus, I think its operator error. I am having such a hard time shooting with center point focus only - a little off and you get what you describe.
I am shooting center point focus, plus AI Servo. On the coach shot, I had to put the center point low to get him centered in the frame. With no DOF at f4 - you get exactly what you describe. On the field shots, I think its a combo of motion blur and little DOF.
I am afraid I am pushing my expertise level here a little. Any help appreciated.
Z
I'm not sure what body your shooting, but if it's a Canon 20D or 30D, you can set your C.Fn #4, to option 3. That sets the camera to use the back * button for focus, and the option 3 does not lock exposure. That's how mine is set up and works well for me. This allows for a shot like your coach, in AI Servo mode, to focus on his face, release the * button, then recompose the shot. Wallah, where you want to be in focus is, and you can still recompose the shot.
C.Fn #4 has other options that may or may not work for you. You can choose to also have, not only the focus, but also have the exposure locked when you initially hold down the * button. That sounds a little confusing even to me... So, what that mode would do is: pushing the focus button and holding it in AI Servo mode, would now allow tracking of your subject, but the exposure would have locked at what was metered at the time when you FIRST pushed the focus button. (Clear as mud?)
I don't like that. I want to be able to focus where I want, then recompose and still have the camera meter correctly for how I've recomposed the scene. Also, while tracking a subject, you DO want the camera to be actively metering the scene. (This mode would be option 3)
All the people that I know that have given the back * button a decent try, won't go back to the shutter/focus setup.
Give it a try and see if it helps you out.
Oh, also a little tip: On a 20D & 30D when in AI Servo, when you hit the focus button, the focus "square" only lights up long enough to get your initial focus, it then goes out and stays out while tracking. In darker situations, like Friday Night Football games where it's hard to see anything, I'll often focus, track some, then let off the * button and reapply focus so that "I" can see where the heck the center focus square is!!!
The 1DMK** series lights up the focus square as long as your holding the focus button down. This helps your ability to track a subject A LOT, and is something I wish Canon would incorporate in all of their cameras.
I have a 30D and will try the * button focus. Messing around with it here in the house, I can see how this is easier than trying to change focus points on the fly. I do worry a bit about parallax issues when focus/recompose, but this seems like a neat trick to try.
I looked at B&H today to order a new lens and expodisc and of course this is the one week a year they are closed!
Glass: Sigma 70-200 f2.8 | Sigma 20 f1.8 | Canon 28-135 f3.5-5.6 IS USM
Z,
This may be obvious, but on the ExpoDisk, get the size that will fit your largest lens. On the 70-200 f/2.8 that's 77mm.
Then, when using your other lenses, simply hold it over the lens for the WB shot.
Also, disregard the instructional part where it says to set lens to manual for the WB shot, because if you use the * back button, you can take a shot without the lens in focus. That's why they tell you to set the lens in manual focus, because if your using the shutter/focus button it won't fire until focus is acquired, and it never would be with the ExpoDisk over the lens.
Enjoy... Your gonna like your new toys
NOTE: DON'T get talked into buying the "Portrait ExpoDisk". Just get the regular one. The portrait model is calibrated for a "warmer" WB. I've talked to 3 other pro's that tried that model and sent it back for the regular one, which they are very pleased with.
(I promise that I don't work for ExpoDisk
Hey PineapplePhoto,
Don't want to get into anyone's business, but you might want to contact Z about that very lens. He is in the process of upgrading to the f/2.8, so, I don't know if he is going to sell his 70-200 f4 or not.
Just an idea...
Could possibly work out for both of you.