Hold that line!!!!!
jeffreaux2
Registered Users Posts: 4,762 Major grins
I shoot people photos mostly, but am an enthusiast at heart. This is my first attemp at football action. I can definately see what attracts you guys to this. It was tough in the afternoon sun tring to expose for faces ....especially when the sun was at their backs. Here are a few samples from a nube to this type of photography.
I was using a borrowed dust pump type 100-200mm F4.5 canon lens.
I was using a borrowed dust pump type 100-200mm F4.5 canon lens.
Thanks,
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
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Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
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IMHO, I feel it's better to properly expose for the uniforms than the face in regards to football because of the football helmets. However, I do think you did a great job of getting faces and it would make a parent proud. If you shoot more football, get those face shots of course. However, also work on exposing for the total package. When you do get that great face shot with a properly exposed uniform, the picture will be dynamite.
I thought of trying, but didnt use my shoe mount flash to offer fill. I am not sure if this would have helped, but it stands to reason it would have. Just curious if any football afficiandos have ever used fill in daylight.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
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Randy
http://www.CarolinaSportsPhotography.com/
No doubt about it... And I'll repeat Randy's comment "the faces are everything"
Wow, read my whole write up. I did say expose for the faces. Just get some exposing for the uniforms if it suits your fancy. I personally don't like blown out uniforms, but that's me. If you have proper exposure, you are going to get the faces. They don't have to be mutually exclusive. Part of football is the dirt and grass stains on the uniform and if it's blown out, you can't repair it because that detail is lost.
If you want face shots in football, you need to get where the sun is hitting their faces. That means always shooting with the sun behind you if possible. If the game is in the middle of the day, then it is much more difficult. However, I don't see too many shots in SI with blown out uniforms and they still manage to get great faces shots so both can be achieved.
IMHO, I feel it's better to properly expose for the uniforms than the face
did i miss something ?
so it's done on SI, another WOW and who cares...
If you set EV to get good uniforms you will usually get dark faces and will probably lose detail especially with helmets
Randy
http://www.CarolinaSportsPhotography.com/
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
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YES, def !
I have used it on numerous occasions...
also try center weighted metering and AF on the face w/ the center sensor or increase the size of the CW metering area. If you shoot into the sun try some pos EV, +.3 or +.7, also AF on the face and use CW metering
Randy
http://www.CarolinaSportsPhotography.com/
Jeff I wouldn't think it would be benificial because the flash probably wouldn't carry that far (Unless you are right on the sideline taking photos of player coming right at you). I would go for matrix or center weighted metering and focus on the face or chest area of the players. Another thing about flash is that it limits your shutter speed. I don't know what it is on your Canon but Nikon is only about 250 and I like to shoot sports faster than that. It just takes practice Jeff. Keep at it and keep experimenting.
You will get it. I've seen some of your photos and you will get it I am sure.
Dave J.
fill flash works alot farther than you think....
set a d200's flash sync option to TTL-FP and you can use any ss you want (the flash's pwer is reduced though)
Randy
http://www.CarolinaSportsPhotography.com/
Randy is absolutely right. I've benefitted from on-camera fill flash up to 80ft. It doesn't sound right, but you're dealing with the reflections of the light off of lighter colored stuff like skin, clothing, etc.
Remember Randy's wake boarding photos (http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=69510)
done with fill-flash.
- Mike
IR Modified Sony F717
http://2H2OPhoto.smugmug.com
Thanks Randy...I'll have to try that.
Dave
The 580EX flash has a high speed sych mode that will synch at any shutter speed....even those above the 1/200 sync that is normally available on my camera. It works well, and I have used it at up to 1/1250. What I don't know is how well a fresh pair of batteries would hold up to continuos shutter...rapid fire mode.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
I havent tried that far in daylight...I am more of a portrait person.....but I do know that the flash will overpower the sun. That is....at +Flash exposure compensation, it will take over and if on ETTL the sky will start to darken.
It is pretty powerful.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
If you pick and choose you do.
My point is when the sun is high like it was in those shots, exposing for the face will leave blown out uniforms. When the sun sets or gets on the horizon, it's much easier to get shots with good light on their faces. If you set EV for faces if they are HEAVILY shadowed as the conditions were, you BLOW out detail that can't be repaired. If you have a dark face, it can be brought out some if exposed for the uniform.
If fill light helps, use it. It never hurts to try.