Configuring ETTL Flash-Fill with Canon 1DMII and Speedlite 430EX

jcdill

I have a Canon 1DMark II, and a borrowed Speedlite 430EX. I need to learn how to properly configure both units to shoot with ETTL.

A) I need to know how to correctly configure for flash fill when shooting in full sun (from 9:30 am to 2:30 pm). I need to set the f-stop and have the camera select the correct shutter speed to properly expose the background, and have the flash fill in shadows on the subjects (people). My attempts to do this by guess and by golly have not been successful. :-( I HATE not understanding this stuff!

I need to know how to correctly configure both for using flash indoors in the daytime - in the event that the weather is not suitable for shooting outdoors. Again, I need to set the f-stop. The flash needs to properly expose the people - obviously the background will be darker (unless they are in front of a window in which case it will be lighter) and either way I can't avoid that.

C) I may also have some studio strobe lights for the indoors shots. In that case I just need the flash to set off the strobes, and to provide a slight amount of fill. I know how to do this with manual settings as I do in the studio. But when I don't have the strobes I'm back to case B above.

I have read the Canon 1DMII manual but am really confused. I don't have the Speedlite manual - does anyone know if it can be downloaded?

I'm hoping someone who "just knows how this works" can give me some simple ABC steps on how to set this up for each scenario above. I know how to change settings on the camera but don't know how to change settings on the flash so I'll need detailed steps on how each setting is set on the flash.

Thanks!!!

jc

digismile

Canon often makes it hard to get manuals online. Here is a link that appears to work for a copy of the manual.

Regards,

pathfinder

jcdill wrote:

I have a Canon 1DMark II, and a borrowed Speedlite 430EX. I need to learn how to properly configure both units to shoot with ETTL.

A) I need to know how to correctly configure for flash fill when shooting in full sun (from 9:30 am to 2:30 pm). I need to set the f-stop and have the camera select the correct shutter speed to properly expose the background, and have the flash fill in shadows on the subjects (people). My attempts to do this by guess and by golly have not been successful. :-( I HATE not understanding this stuff!

I need to know how to correctly configure both for using flash indoors in the daytime - in the event that the weather is not suitable for shooting outdoors. Again, I need to set the f-stop. The flash needs to properly expose the people - obviously the background will be darker (unless they are in front of a window in which case it will be lighter) and either way I can't avoid that.

C) I may also have some studio strobe lights for the indoors shots. In that case I just need the flash to set off the strobes, and to provide a slight amount of fill. I know how to do this with manual settings as I do in the studio. But when I don't have the strobes I'm back to case B above.

I have read the Canon 1DMII manual but am really confused. I don't have the Speedlite manual - does anyone know if it can be downloaded?

I'm hoping someone who "just knows how this works" can give me some simple ABC steps on how to set this up for each scenario above. I know how to change settings on the camera but don't know how to change settings on the flash so I'll need detailed steps on how each setting is set on the flash.

Thanks!!!

jc

JC - It is easier to answer one question at a time, than a whole series, but I'll give it a go.:D

A) To use fill flash in out door daylight, you need to set the 430EX speedlite for ETTL, and your camera ( 1DMkll, 5D, 40D, whatever ) needs to be in Av mode. Your highest synch speed with a Canon camera is 1/200th or 1/250th of a second, and if you shoot in bright sunlight with a large aperture - f2.8 say - you will find your images overexposed because using the speedlight will reset your shutter speed from the required 1/1000th or so to 1/200th to assure proper flash synching, and over expose your image with ambient light. You need to set your 430ex for "High Speed Synch" - this will then let you use any shutter speed needed in bright sunlight . To enable High Speed Synch, with the 430ex, there is a row of four buttons on the back of your speedlite. The middle button on the right side, has a lighting bolt H/>>> symbol. Press this button once and it enables High Speed Synch, press it a second time and it enables second curtain flash, press it a third time and it returns the flash to normal 1/200th max shutter speed.

With ETTL on the flash with HSS, and Av mode on your camera, the exposure for the background will be based on the ambient lighting - so if it is dark, you may have a very long shutter speed and need a tripod, but in sunlight the flash will illuminate the foreground properly, and the background will be properly exposed by the ambient light.. I use an EOS flash in this manner almost routinely when shooting in sunlight. If you set your camera to Manual Mode, with the flash in ETTL ( with HSS if needed) you can then balance the lighting of the foreground by flash and the background can be under exposed as needed to really show off your subject.

The setting you need for indoors flash, is ETTL on the speedlite, and Manual Mode for the camera body. This will give you total control of the foreground lighting, and the background as well. The flash will properly expose your subject that you focus on, and the background exposure will entirely depend on what you set your aperture and shutter speed at. Your shutter speed will affect the ambient exposure, but not the flash exposure.


C) To use your 430ex to trigger your studio strobes, put your speedlite into Manual mode by pressing the Mode button, which is the middle left button in the upper row on the 430ex. The letter "M" will appear when you are in Manual Mode on the 430ex. Now press the "Set" button in the middle of the two semi circular buttons and then press the minus button until you see 1/8 or 1/16. You have reduced the flash power to 1/8th or 1/16th of full power. This will trigger the sensors on your studio strobes, but have minimal lighting effect on your image.

I have written several threads about these topics previously here on dgrin. A few minutes using the Search tool reveals these threads which are all about the EOS flash system, fill flash, High Speed Synch, etc


General

At least read this first one, as it is a good, general over view of the EOS flash system
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=70330&highlight=fill+flash+pathfinder

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=32198&highlight=fill+flash+pathfinder

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=50306&highlight=flash+pathfinder

HSS

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=36457&highlight=fill+flash+pathfinder

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=70533&highlight=flash+pathfinder

Strobist settings

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=70003&highlight=flash+pathfinder

Take a gander at these threads and see if they don't help answer your questions. I find the EOS system to manage flash extremely well. I, particularly, love using the ST-E2 to control the EOS flashes off camera - If you search for ST-E2 and pathfinder you will find several of them as well.

jcdill

pathfinder wrote:

JC - It is easier to answer one question at a time, than a whole series, but I'll give it a go.:D

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!

This was EXACTLY what I was hoping for. I tried searching but was unable to find posts about *how* to use the flash fill - just found lots of posts about having used it or that someone should have used it, etc. Now that I have all these great links, I'll be spending the next few hours studying, and then practicing.

jc

pathfinder

If you have any further questions about fill flash, JC, feel free to add them to this thread. I will be happy to try to answer them.

You might also show us a few of your examples of your work with your new fill flash skills, so that we can continue to spread the word.

ziggy53

Path you are a gem and a gentleman! clap

cwoodard

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I just had to say THANK YOU. I came looking for almost the exact same answers. So helpful!

RogersDA

With AV mode on the Canon set you have to make sure that your custom functions for flash sync speed is for "auto" and not for the camera's maximum 1/200 sec. or 1/250 sec.

I have a question on this though: I always thought that the camera on manual with the flash on ETTL and high speed sync would cause the flash output to be "fill" light. Is manual mode on the camera causing the flash to be the primary source of light?

pathfinder

David,

My understanding of the EOS system flash, with the camera body in Manual Mode, the Flash in ETTL, and high speed synch enabled - is that the exposure for background will be determined entirely your choice of aperture and shutter speed, and that the subject in the forground will be exposed properly by the flash - remember the flash does not necessarily have to be on the camera - it CAN be triggered by an ST-E2 IR transmitter or a Radio Popper, and can be closer to the subject

You may need high speed synch out of doors in sunlight to allow a fast enough shutter speed to allow the flash to override ambient sunlight. I use this frequently for shooting macro shots - you can drive a sunlit background to black shooting this way. As long as the flash exposure is about 3 stops brighter than the ambient background, the background will be rendered as black.


Sunlight, out of doors during the daytime, ( from sunny 16 rules ) requires an aperture of f16 at 1/100th for correct exposure, so any distance that a flash can properly light for f16 or smaller, will begin to overdrive the sunlight. F 16 1/400th will work also( with high speed synch ) because sunlight areas will be two stops under exposed due to the higher shutter speed ( HSS can be pretty cool) The non-OEM Vivitar 285HV does support High Speed Synch, of course. One some EOS speedlites, and a couple Sigma versions as well.

Here is table I posted previously showing distances and appropriate apertures for a 550ex and a Vivitar 285hv The numbers will be within one stop for a 580ex I suspect, but I did not have a 580ex when I created this table a while ago.

================================================================
Full Power Direct Flash Zoom setting at 50mm 550EX triggered by my Sekonic 358 to a PW ISO set at 100 for all readings

2 feet f 45
2.8 feet f 32
4 feet f 20
5.6 feet f14
8 feet f 10
11 feet f 7.1

This is almost an exact match of the power of the Vivitar 285HV - interesting isn't it?? (Power is probably capacitor limited by 6 volts 4 AAs I bet )


At 1/4 power I got these readings.... 550EX direct flash 50mm zoom ISO 100 - Note at 2 feet, the flash at 1/4 power will match sunlight at an aperture of f16 - I did not measure at 2 feet, but if the exposure is f11 at 2.8 feet, at 2 feet it will be one stop brighter

2.8 feet f11
4 feet f8
5.6 feet f 5.6
8 feet f4
11 feet f 3.2

And at 1/16th Power 550ex Direct flash ISO 100 - not bright enough to over ride sunlight, but certainly enough to overdrive ambient in the shade..... Ambient lighting in the shade on a sunlit day is typically f 5.6 ISO 100 - three stops less light than sunlight

2 feet f 8.0
2.8 feet f 5.6
4 feet f 4
5.6 feet f 3.2
8 feet f 2.2
11 feet f 1.6

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
And now, the Vivitar 285HV Direct Flash Normal Zoom ( a Strobist favorite ) ( you cannot do high speed synch with a non- OEM flash like the Vivitar - some Sigma flashes are capable of HSS I believe )

ISO 100 1/100thsec Normal setting Direct Flash = 1/2 Power

2.8 feet f22 This is one stop brighter than sunlight!!
4 feet f16 Equal to direct sunlight
5.6 feet f11 one stop less than direct sun
8 feet f 8 -- 2 stops less than direct sun
11 feet f5.6


And finally - full power direct flash normal setting will blow sunlight away...... 285HV normalzoom

ISO 100 1/100th second Normal setting Direct Flash = Full Power -- Pedal to the Metal
2.8 feet f 32 3 stops brighter than sun - wow!
3 feet f 29
4 feet f 22
5.5 feet f 14 Slightly less than full sunlight
8 feet f 10
11 feet f 8


These distances may sound short, but for portraits in sunlight, they are quite workable with off camera flash - the flash can be closer to the subject than the camera..... Even in a small softbox, f32 ( before the softbox ) so kill 2 tops, and you're still one stop brighter than direct sunlight. With an overcast sky or shade, portable flashes will definitely overdrive the ambient lighting. How cool is that!?

Here is a table for ambient exposure in sunlight - the sunny 16 rule - notice that the proper exposure at f4 ISO 100 is 1/2000th of a sec. 1/8000th of a sec will be 3 stops under exposed then.



This horse was shot at f3.5 at ISO 100 at 1/8000th sec - the front of the horse is backlit and in the shade but was lit by my flash ( in HSS) at -1 2/3 ev