Help with transitioning to manual mode

firststring74

I photograph horse shows mostly. At one horse show recently I was shooting into the rising (and later the setting) sun. I usually use shutter priority and set my shutter at 1/2500. But as you can see in the following picture,

http://cdchambers.smugmug.com/gallery/3797926#219181972

it leaves much to me desired when shooting into the sun.

How can I make the switch to manual mode, and what settings should I start at to try to improve the pictures in this situation? the ISO is at 800, where should it be for this type of photography? Thanks for help. I am going to try to test different settings in manual with my dog and shooting into the sun one day soon (as soon as we have sun again and I am off!). Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Christina

cecilc

Well, you don't HAVE to go to manual mode if you're more comfortable using either AV or TV .... You can leave your settings on TV or AV if you'd like and just set your exposure compensation to +2/3 or +1 and see if you like those results ....

When shooting into the bright sky your camera's meter is going to meter off of that brightness. And that meter reading usually results in an underexposed subject. But you can overcome that (somewhat) by using your camera's exposure compensation feature.

Just don't forget to "re-set" that compensation when you get back to shooting with the light behind you ....

Richard

firststring74 wrote:

How can I make the switch to manual mode, and what settings should I start at to try to improve the pictures in this situation? the ISO is at 800, where should it be for this type of photography? Thanks for help. I am going to try to test different settings in manual with my dog and shooting into the sun one day soon (as soon as we have sun again and I am off!). Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Christina

Manual mode will not solve all your problems if you shoot a dark subject against a bright background. Only fill flash can help you there.

There really isn't all that much difference between manual mode and Av/Tv with EC. You can only deviate +/- 2 stops with EC while in manual you can do whatever you want. You might want to experiment with partial rather than matrix metering. You might get better exposure on the subject, though the background would certainly be blown in a shot like the one you linked to. No free lunches, I'm afraid, but the results might suit your needs better.

Regards,

mercphoto

rsinmadrid wrote:

Manual mode will not solve all your problems if you shoot a dark subject against a bright background. Only fill flash can help you there.

Correct. I'm not sure why you think manual mode is going to help you any. The solution is to not shoot the shady-side of a subject, only shoot the sunny-side. The other solution is to use your flash.

RandySmugMug

i prefer Aperture priority.
If you have to shoot into the sun change your metering to center weighted or spot and increase the EV to +.3 or +.7....you are gonna blow the background anyway so try to get the rider and/or horse exposed correctly....fill flash would also help

justus

Horse Show photos
I take horse show and eventing photos also and you will always have that problem with photos with the sun on the wrong side of the horse. In jumping classes like you've shown, the sun side will change with every jump. Especially with horse shows, the classes change so quickly that you have to adjust your vantage point almost every 20 minutes or so to keep up with the changing sun and event setups within the arena. For example, if I 'm shooting a jumping class and immediately following they have a western trail class, I have to move and find the best vantage point, background, etc for the trail class with respect to where the sun is vs. the obstacles in the trail class and photos I'll be trying to sell. Keep practicing, I take full advantage of AV and TV modes, don't always have time to shoot manual with action shots like you have there! You do have the precise moment down pat though to take the jumping picture.:D Great job!

firststring74

Thanks for input everyone. On another thread I was reading someone had posted that my using manual mode he managed to not underexpose the horse/rider and I wasn't sure how they were doing that. I can't find the thread now so I can't pm the individual directly.

I think that changing the metering mode will help. I do try to only shoot the sunny side of the horse but I also want to get as many exposures of each horse and rider that I can. The blown out pic I linked to was the first one on course and I try to shoot that fence so I can get a feel for how the horse jumps. Unfortunately sometimes these kids don't make it around a full course of jumps and so that is the only shot I get of them that round .

With horse I try not to use flash, I am afraid to cause a spook and injure a horse and/or rider.

That is good advice to always be changing locations. I usually try to do that but I think I need to work harder to get the best light I can. This show was particularly trying because the ring ran north-south and the sun was low in the southern sky since it is fall. All the jumps were running east west (except for the diagonals and they weren't much better).

What aperture do you set the camera at if you are setting aperature priority?

RandySmugMug

firststring74 wrote:

Thanks for input everyone. On another thread I was reading someone had posted that my using manual mode he managed to not underexpose the horse/rider and I wasn't sure how they were doing that. I can't find the thread now so I can't pm the individual directly.

I think that changing the metering mode will help. I do try to only shoot the sunny side of the horse but I also want to get as many exposures of each horse and rider that I can. The blown out pic I linked to was the first one on course and I try to shoot that fence so I can get a feel for how the horse jumps. Unfortunately sometimes these kids don't make it around a full course of jumps and so that is the only shot I get of them that round .

With horse I try not to use flash, I am afraid to cause a spook and injure a horse and/or rider.

That is good advice to always be changing locations. I usually try to do that but I think I need to work harder to get the best light I can. This show was particularly trying because the ring ran north-south and the sun was low in the southern sky since it is fall. All the jumps were running east west (except for the diagonals and they weren't much better).

What aperture do you set the camera at if you are setting aperature priority?

it depends on what is in the background and what ss you need....i like f4 for 2.8 lens but that is assuming i can fill the frame w/ the subject and that the resulting ss is adequate to freeze the action

sportsshooter06

Try using center weighted metering, this seems to help cut down the slight overexposure.
If using Aperture, it really depends on what your DOF, will be.
I like shooting horses at f4, not as shallow as wide open and it gives you some wiggle room.
If you need, more shutter speed, use the ISO, try ISO 320 it really will help.
A little EV can also be used.
Everything is variable
good luck

sportsshooter

beetle8

All covered
Seems like all the bases have been covered, I just wanted to reinforce aperature priority, I use it because with fast things there is no way to adjust for the continually changing conditions and still get the shot in Manual.

Hugo

beetle8 wrote:

Seems like all the bases have been covered, I just wanted to reinforce aperature priority, I use it because with fast things there is no way to adjust for the continually changing conditions and still get the shot in Manual.

Your comment says it all.
I also use Av for sports shots. It's the best setting you can use for fast-paced shots.

firststring74

Thanks everyone. I am going to be up practicing at the trainers next week. I'll post some shots when I get back for critiques.

Oh, and thanks everyone for being so nice. Not all forums are as great as you "guys" when it comes to us newbies.

Christina