macro lighting soft box
Jekyll & Hyde
Registered Users Posts: 170 Major grins
J: I'd give the Sigma a try first for your macro shots. It looks very versatile and has a great power range.Khaos wrote:I will be ordering the Sigma 500 Super for my regular flash. As to what I will be shooting? Everything and anything. I'm just trying to figure out if it's a $450 need. No, I have not used flash much.
H: Since you don't have any really pressing need for 360 degree even illumination (like medical/dental photography or coin collection documentation), I think you might find the Sigma quite suitable for general macro shooting (with a couple of mods).
J: Get yourself something like the Lumiquest Big Bounce, and shoot either camera-mounted, or better yet off-camera.
H: I built a couple of homemade mini softboxes for my flash (Sunpak 383). A small 6 x 6" one for on-camera flash, and a larger 9 x 12" for use off-camera. I even made one for my little in-camera flash. Just some foamcore and a suitable diffuser material. Less than $5 each.
J: I really like the results and the control I get. The resultant lighting ratio is about perfect for my tastes. Enough contrast so that the picture isn't so flat, yet it eliminates the harsh shadows.
H: So give the Sigma a try when you get it. You may find that the $450 is better spent elsewhere. Here's a dragon shot with the 383 on-camera (and diffuser).
J&H
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Mr. I. Yes, Mr. Bones?
Mr. B. Do you have a photograph of your homemade softboxes?
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
J: Hmmm. No.
H: Is he a forum member?
J: Ooops. Missed that the first time around.
H: Is he a forum member?
J: Why yes Mr. Tambo.
H: I'll produce a facsimile forthright.
Yes, that's a kitchen utensil for a handle.
J: Thanks BC. Your DReb and 100 Macro are indeed quite capable. If memory serves, I believe a 1:1 lens will allow a 22.5mm object to fill the frame.
H: I think all you need to throw into the mix would be flash. Flash will allow you to shoot at a very small aperture for greatest DOF, and it will all but eliminate camera shake, vibrations produced by mirror slap, as well as most subject movement (those bumblebee wings go sooo fast).
J: This leaves focus as the next biggest hurdle. I switch to manual focus and set it to min focal distance. I then rock the camera back and forth until the area that I desire comes into focus.
H: I shoot almost all of my macros handheld (gotta follow those darn bugs around y'know), but a tripod and macro focusing rail can be quite handy for static objects. A monopod can also be quite helpful. (You will learn to despise windy days!)
J: Once you start to get the shooting rythm down, then an attempt can be made to shoot using available light (start out on a bright sunny day). Sometimes fill flash can give you just enough of an edge, while retaining that wonderfully colorful background that only ambient light can provide.
H: I often like to shoot macros at night (some of my favorite subjects like to come out after dark). I attach a flashlight to my camera to act as a focus assist light (I still shoot using manual focus), and usually mount the flash right on camera for convenience (again, the small softbox is used).
J: So no matter the light conditions, screw that macro lens on, grab your flash, and head out to the garden!
J&H
Thanks
Welcome to DGRin!
It's good to see both of you here!
Den
H: The most important component is the diffuser material. This was cut from a 3-ring binder that I found at a Staples office supply store (Storex model 1 1/2" Heavy Duty, sku 85442 52299). You can see your fingers through it, but not quite make out the fingerprints (I've searched high and low for just the right material). The face is actually 10 inches by 11.5 inches.
J: The "sides" of the pyramidal shape are 12 inches (foamcore - black on the outside, white on the inside). The opening is just large enough to fit the head of the 383 into. A velcro strap is used to secure the flash. Oh yeah, the handle is a stiff plastic pancake turner. It's all bound and wrapped with clear packaging tape (except the diffuser surface).
H: It can be a little hard at times handholding the camera with one hand, and directing the flash/softbox with the other. I have a couple of modified flash brackets with adjustable arms that I use sometimes. It's a must when using dual flashes.
J: The light it provides is very soft and even. It works well when backlighting (with the flash just outside of the frame). I use the 383 in manual mode and set the power from about 1/2 to 1/16, depending on the flash to subject distance (and the subject and its immediate surroundings).
H: This shot is at about a 4:1 equiv macro ratio, with the 383 and large diffuser. The large diffuser is pretty good at keeping the highlights from blowing out too much.
J&H
J: Hey there Den. Good to see you too.
H: How's the beast (1Ds MkII) been treating you?
J&H
the macros are fantastic. I feel inspired!
Thanks, both of you
gubbs.smugmug.com
Way cool softbox. It's deffinately on my list of DIY stuff!
Very informative JK - One thing I missed, if you described it, is the connection of the flash to the triggering mechanism of your camera. Is the hand held flash being triggered by the light emitted from the camera body flash or is it wired with the OEM flash extension cord?
I have used both methods, but for macro, the OEM extension cord seems to give more control to me - at least if you are using the OEM flash units - Canon, Nikon etc.
Very nice macro shots - sharp and with great color and tonality.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
H: If you'd like to check out my insect gallery, I list what camera and lens was used for each shot (and usually the EXIF has been retained too).
http://www.pbase.com/jekyll_and_hyde/insects
J: Ha! Sometime I have to reread my posts three times before I get it myself, ourselves, er... us-selves.
H: Wrapping the softbox up with packaging tape keeps it pretty much weatherproof, as well as protecting the soft surface of the foamcore. I reinforced the attachment points with left over plastic diffuser material, and attached the velcro pieces to the plastic with heavy duty staples.
J: Yup, I use a 5' coiled PC cord to connect the flash to the camera's hotshoe (with adapter). It allows plenty of freedom of movement so that one can light the subject from any desired angle.
H: Sometimes I use one or two slave flashes. To provide a highlight, to even out the lighting some with fill, or to light the background more.
Thanks for lookin' guys. Happy shooting. :flash
J&H
j & h
thanks for bringing your experience and talent to dgrin!
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Thanks!
Marshall
H: I'm glad you have found such a great outlet for all of your expertise! The folks here seem to truly love the essence of photography. I couldn't be happier.
J: Hi Free'. Thanks!
H: Nope, you weren't daydreaming. I hadn't posted info on anything besides the softbox.
J: You're right, most of my macro pics were taken with the Sony F717. Like the 828, it lends itself pretty well to macro. There are a couple of ways to go about it.
H: First, and simplest, is the Close Up Lens (screws on like a filter). These are measured in Diopters. The higher the diopter, the greater the "magnification," although the lens to subject distance gets smaller as the diopters get higher. To determine the "magnification" (I use this term very loosely here), divide the diopter value by four. And to determine the lens to subject distance (in millimeters), divide the diopters into 1000.
J: For example, a Canon 250D (the best in its class IMO) is rated at 4 diopters. It will not magnify the image at all (4 divided by 4 = 1), however it will give you a nice working distance of 250mm (about 10 inches). If you want to increase your "magnification," then you would either have to use a stronger close up lens (higher diopters), or stack another close up lens on top of the 250D.
H: Diopters are additive (and addictive), so if you stacked two of the 250D's, you would then end up with a value of 8 diopters. This would double your image size, but cut your lens to subject distance to 125mm (5 inches). Five inches is still a pretty good working distance (for flowers and most bugs).
J: I would avoid the 10+ diopter close up lenses, unless you can try a particular lens to see how it works for you. I gave the B+W +10 a try with my 717, and it didn't match up very well at all. The Canon 500D is a 2 diopter lens and works well for flowers and those easy to spook butterflies. The Nikon 6T, Oly, and Sony lenses are all about 3 diopters (they'd stack nicely on a 250D). Whichever the lens, I'd recommend getting the dual-element variety (like all those listed).
H: Now the method that I like to use most is to mount a lens reversed on the front of the camera's lens. Typically, a fast 50mm normal lens (for SLR/DSLR camera systems) is used. I have a Canon 50mm f1.4 FD lens that I use (the large maximum aperture allows for minimum vigneting). It has an "effective" diopter value of about 15. It gets Veeerrry close (almost a 4:1 magnification ratio). Lens to subject distance is about two inches. This is the lens used in the photo of the Crab Spider (the spider's head was about 2mm wide).
Here's where to find the "Macro Coupler" needed to mount two lenses face to face:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=102220&is=REG
J: Using a 50mm lens can sometimes almost get you too close. DOF is almost nonexistant, camera shake is huge, and subject movement is greatly amplified. Composition due to the tiny DOF is often hit or miss. So the accessory lens that I like to use most often is an enlarger lens (made for a darkroom medium format enlarger). It is a 135mm f4.5 Rodenstock (mounted reversed), and works out to about 7 diopters. Lens to subject distance is about 5 inches. This is the lens I used in the Dragonfly photo above.
H: It is light and nimble. Quite sharp, and color rendition is very very good (as expected, from its original intended purpose).
J: Good news for you Marshall is that all of these methods have been used on the 828 (and work as well or better than the 717).
H: Well, it seems I made a long story even longer. :baldy
Hope this gets you started. Just ask if any more questions come up.
J&H
ps. I just love your new word "Macroism." I've gotta add it to my spell-checker custom file!