Well and Truly AWFUL
Yeah, here we go. The well and truly awful shots. I am having a HELL of a time sorting out how to take nice indoor family pics without the flash! (As noted in another thread, I now know that using the "finger-over-the-flash" trick does NOT work. Lesson learned.)
Right, here we go, then. Same scene, one with and one without flash. I honestly can't remember what I did with the sans flash shot, I believe I had the ISO set to 100 or 200, was playing with f/stop vs. shutter speed, and was having a devil time trying to get stuff to "go green".
In any event, it was NOT this dark in the room!
Right, here we go, then. Same scene, one with and one without flash. I honestly can't remember what I did with the sans flash shot, I believe I had the ISO set to 100 or 200, was playing with f/stop vs. shutter speed, and was having a devil time trying to get stuff to "go green".
In any event, it was NOT this dark in the room!
Youth and Enthusiasm
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Age and Treachery
Are No Match For
Age and Treachery
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Age and Treachery
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?p=6680#post6680 Photographs are only as good as the light used to make them - and in many homes - my own too - the light is very poor for available light shots, - dim,non-directional, orangish tunsten, etc.....
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Are No Match For
Age and Treachery
Just take your time...its free to take as many photos as time will allow. A photographer with 20 years experience & a cheap camera will out do a novice with an expensive camera any day once it is off auto. Its all about time & experimentation.
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Age and Treachery
I do agree with Humungus that experimentation is a great thing and costs nothing but time with a digital camera. But I do not agree that very dark underexposed images are by definition better than nicely lighted ones..... Dark images can be quite interesting if a good center of interest is accentuated - but dark images may also be just dreary and hard to see.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
In this shot there is a light coloured wooden chair bouncing a bright downlight back at the moggy (as well as the downlight itself).....sort of lightens it all with out any direct light.
He has mentioned he'd like a word with you...................alone
Finder of the Path, do you mean essentially creating a little "c" of paper over the flash? I can do this! (Though.. my urge is to use duct tape.. probably shouldn't use duct tape, huh?)
Between this, and maybe even The GIMP I just might get some of this sorted. I was very tempted to toss the whole batch, but I'm learning that by playing with my histograms I might be able to play with saturation values a bit.
Are No Match For
Age and Treachery
Are No Match For
Age and Treachery
Are No Match For
Age and Treachery
Hmmm...didnt work out as good as yours
Are No Match For
Age and Treachery
There is some really specific help in the yahoo groups....these blokes know the camera backwards. I use these groups for my c-5050 for the tough questions. There is a group for nearly every camera i think.
This link may well not work but you are up on puters so im sure you can find it.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Olympus-C730-c740-c750/
There are a few ways I might try to deal with this, seeing as you don't have a hotshoe option.
The complicated way would be to install a reflector to bounce the flash upward to the ceiling. Get a 3x5 card and tape it onto the flash to bounce it up, for instance. (A benefit of this approach is you'll get leakage through the card, acting as a diffuse direct light too.) You'll probably have to experiment with different reflectors and whatnot, and of course it's ugly and ungainly, but most likely you could pull that off and get significantly better shots.
The easy way would be to look for flash exposure compensation (on many cameras it's the same as exposure compensation) and drop it down a stop or maybe even two. That should fix the overexposure, although you'll still have harsh highlights from the direct flash.
Another way to dim the flash would be simply to back off and use the zoom feature of the camera.
jimf@frostbytes.com
Regards, Eric
Jim, others have suggested the card trick (is that anything like a hat trick?), could I get away with something a bit smaller than a 3x5? (That's practically as big as the camera itself, may be a bit ungainly for me.) I had been considering the following options (don't laugh.. ok, laugh):
- A piece of Kleenex held over the flash. (Experiment with folding.)
- A piece of fabric over the flash. (See above.)
- Taking the lens of an old pair of sunglasses out, cutting a piece to fit, and taping IT over the flash.
- Taking an old eyeglass lens, cutting a piece down, buffing it with steel wool or sandpaper to make it 'foggy', and duct taping that over the flash.
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Oh sure, I'd cut it down to fit. It needs to be at least as big as the flash itself, and preferably a little larger. It doesn't need to be much larger, after all it's going to be sitting right on the flash itself.
The kleenex and fabric would work pretty well as diffusers, although I'd just use a normal white piece of paper. The sunglass thing would cut the light, but it'd also shift the color a lot. The eyegless lens approach seems like it wouldn't do much except perhaps alter the flash focus, after all the flash lens is already pretty much that kind of thing.
jim
jimf@frostbytes.com
So, didja catch my GIMP thread? I am currently "Grokking the GIMP".. or trying to anyways. As for the star filter, I wonder if it's just a matter of code, or do new algorithms need to be created? I may know someone who has such a talent.
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Age and Treachery
Are No Match For
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Then I selected just the plates and brightened them a bit more.
I have never messed with my monitor settings so if they are right, its just luck.
What I did was take the tablecloth and match it, (I had it with me) under the same lighting, to the shot I was working with. When I had that matched, I figured I was pretty close. The plates aren't "pure" white, but white nonetheless. I did indeed make MAJOR adjustments to the midrange, values as well as red/green/blue. After that I bumped my saturation up just a tiny bit. Highlights were brought up a little, but too much just looked very unnatural. Then I despeckled (which came out FAR better than I expected!).
I KNOW! Would whoever has a calibrated monitor please give an opinion as to what appears natural, or needs adjustment? My goal is this: get it right within the shot itself so it needs as little manipulation as possible. I hope to achieve this goal.. someday, but don't want to toss all these pics I have as they're from the last day my grandparents were out from Puerto Rico.
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I did catch the thread, but while I have used GIMP for awhile to do basic things it was all pretty basic: Adjusting levels, contrast, brightness, rotating and cropping basically.
I'm sure if I got sufficiently motivated I could build a star filter myself. The code should be easy to write, the hard part would be learning the GIMP API. But these days I'm lazy and would prefer to make sure nobody else did it before I go off and spend the time :-).
Besides, after I posted that I found that Photoshop Elements came with my camera. That's a lot easier to use than GIMP (if only because it doesn't need X11 on my Mac).
jimf@frostbytes.com
Check this out. If they make a version for your camera, it might help you.
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http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
You can probably save this image if it is worth it to you. I took a quick stab at it using LAB curves. Probably what I did was just the first step along a road of curves and plate blending. But unlike an overexposed image, all the information is there and it just takes a series of unintuitive steps to get the colors right.
rutt, I discovered in playing with the piccies taken with and without flash that there seems to be a serious dearth of "information" there to play with when the shot's overexposed. However, they look much better as b&w's, so I may convert those.
I've recently emerged a new version of GIMP, and it appears that it does allow some messing about with LAB values. The people who put this programming together are really amazing, as I'd gone (just for chits and giggles) and priced the Photochop proggies. It's like buying a whole new camera, and I darn near lost my cookies (or cleared my cache). I do have the whole series of pics saved, and though I am wont to do housecleaning on a regular basis, there are those sentimental items that I tend to hold onto.
It really seems that these indoor shots are my biggest problem, and I'm determined to figure out how to get it right in the first place so I don't need to spend so much time messing about with the shots in any programs.
Are No Match For
Age and Treachery
As I understand it, it's far better to underexpose a shot than to overexpose it. If you blow out highlights, the information is lost forever, nothing can be done about it. But if an area's too dark, there's a good chance the info is still there, and someone with skill can make something out of it.
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au