Options
light meters are they useful?
when using my flash on the mode to let ambient light in..It is hard to really tell if I have the camera on the right settings so would a light meter help..if so why and which one to buy..thanks janois
(2) Canon 20d, (1) canon 30d, 70-200is 2.8, tamron 17-50,canon 50mm 1.4
http://www.photographybywidget.com
http://www.photographybywidget.com
0
Comments
I picked up an old Minolta Flashmeter IV on ebay for very little money and have used it for some product photography. It works great and meters very accurately. You can pick up something in the $150 range and play with it to see what you think. Perhaps the greatest advantage to a handheld meter is the ability to meter incident (rather than reflective) light.
Others with more (and more recent) experience may want to chime in. . . .
NEW Smugmug Site
There are some instances where nothing but a light meter will do the job. Taking a look at this photo ...
The only way I know to get a measure of the incident light illuminating her hair (and that of the dog) was with a light meter. With that, and an idea of what I was looking for, it was easy stuff to manually set the off-camera flash intensity, and the camera shutter and aperture to get the desired effect.
I think I made only about 6 exposures of this setting (it was cold and I wanted keep her comfortable) varying only the pose and/or camera position.
My light meter of choice is the Sekonic L-358 (B&H Link). It's not real cheap, but it's dead bang on accurate (at least it compares well with my two cameras) and it offers the opportunity to install an optional module that will trigger my PocketWizards to facilitate metering my off-camera lights.
For balancing ambient light with flash, there really is no better/easier way than in manual mode. Contrary to popular opinion, it's not rocket science.
However, Canon does do a very decent job of facilitating the balancing of ambient with fill-flash. Take a look at this informal study I did a short time ago on this subject (link) that may go a long way toward answering some fill-flash questions. BTW - it was this study that convinced me that shooting flash with the camera in manual mode is/was pounding-sand simple, but it's the light meter that made it so...
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
For portraits and weddings I always hand-held meter, indoors and out and when outdoors I get the subject to hold my meter while I set off the flash, that way I get a true meter reading of both flash and ambient light together and always with the incident dome pointing toward the camera......
Be watching the flea market for a sheppard FM1000 and a minolta flash meter III in the next week or so.....I am going to be upgrading a lot of my equipment so I will be letting go of a lot of equipment also......
Most meters are very easy to use.....set ISO (some ask for a shutter speed others do not), push button to set it to meter .....fire flash and read the aperture...that is pretty much how my Minolta flash metrer III workd and it is digital........
Not to overwhelm you but you can spend a ton of money on a truly fancy meter that will take and average upto like 10 meter readings......but for portriature and weddings I have never needed to do that much metering for a single shot.
Good Luck
If I am using strobe for fill I measure the exposure for the main light. Then I turn the main light off and dial my fill up to where I want it--typically between 1.5 and 2.5 stops underexposed depending on the effect I want. The final metering value for the camera is measured with both lights on.
When using a reflector for fill, I measure the exposure with the meter pointing toward the main light and then toward the reflector to judge the lighting contrast. The camera exposure (as always) is set with the meter facing the camera.
I find that any process for setting up lighting needs to be calibrated. Set your lights up in a controlled situation, documenting each of the meter readings. Then evaluate the shots first on a calibrated monitor and then in print to judge which settings are best. Spending that time up front will let you set up your lights with confidence so you can concentrate on taking great pictures rather than worrying about the gear during the shoot.
The setting to use to capture ambient, while exposing with flash, is either Av or Manual mode. Av is 'simpler', but Manual mode gives you more control of the balance of ambient versus flash. Aperture controls ambient and flash, while shutter speed controls ambient, but not flash.
The Sekonic 358 will read ambient and flash lighting both, as well as trigger a Pocket Wizard as well with the optional transmitter. This is really handy as you can set up your lights, pop them once without reaching for your camera, get the reading off the lightmeter, set the aperture and shutter speed into your camera and be ready to go to work. Without runnning back and forth, or shooting several times to get dialed in.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Oh, I forgot. Any one can do this just that easy.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
It ain't rocket science, like my brother in law the rocket scientist says
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Here is some more info from Pros at the Sekonic Classroom as to how and why meters are very important to them...
Love mine. I even got it with the optional module on sale. I use the Sekonic a lot in low light situations, and in nightclubs that have weird stage lighting. And I compare the various readings to what my camera says. Sometimes they are close, but often very different. And I'll do it when I plan on shooting flash or not.
If using flash as my primary but I need to drag the shutter to get ambient light for the background the way I want, there is really no easier way once you get the hang of it. I too only shoot manual in these situations.
-Fleetwood Mac